Sink & Faucet Swap (like-for-like)
Handis kitchen sink and faucet swap replaces the sink and faucet on the existing supply and drain rough-in — drop-in or under-mount, single-basin or double-basin, single-handle pull-down, widespread two-handle, or bridge faucet — from $250 for a faucet-only swap on a clean rough-in to $650 for a full sink-and-faucet combined swap on a difficult drain or a seized angle stop. The chrome faucet from 2001 next to the brushed-nickel new appliances. The stainless single-basin sink that the homeowner wants swapped for a deeper double-basin in the same opening. The pull-down sprayer that has had a slow drip at the base for the last year. The kitchen sink under-mount that came loose at one corner clamp. New braided stainless steel supply lines on every job. New P-trap when the existing one is corroded or out of clearance. New garbage disposal coupling. Leak check at every connection before the visit closes. Anything inside the wall — a leaking supply nipple behind the angle stop, a corroded drain stub-out, a seized angle stop on a soldered connection — routes to a licensed Washington L&I plumber and is named on the quote before the work begins.
Service
What Does a Like-for-Like Kitchen Sink & Faucet Swap Include?
A like-for-like kitchen sink and faucet swap is the same-day or two-visit scope on an existing supply and drain rough-in — covering water shut-off at the angle stops or the building main, removal of the existing sink and faucet, install of the new sink (drop-in or under-mount, single-basin or double-basin) with the appropriate clip-down or under-mount clamp system, install of the new faucet (single-handle pull-down, widespread two-handle, or bridge configuration) with new braided stainless steel supply lines, new P-trap when needed for clearance or condition, new garbage disposal coupling, new basket strainers and tail piece, system pressurization, and a leak check at every connection point. Handis covers same-day installs from $250 on a faucet-only swap to $650 on a sink-and-faucet combined swap with a difficult drain. Most installs finish in 60 to 90 minutes per faucet alone, 2 to 3.5 hours for a combined sink-and-faucet swap.
Faucet-Only Swap on Existing Sink
The most common kitchen-fixture call — replace the kitchen faucet on an existing sink rough-in. Three-hole sink with deck plate, four-hole sink with separate sprayer, single-hole sink in modern installs. New braided supply lines, new mounting hardware, leak check. From $250 labor on a clean rough-in.
Sink-Only Swap on Existing Faucet
Replace the sink with the existing faucet carried over to the new install. Drop-in sink replacement is the simpler scope (existing cutout matches, new clip-down kit reused). Under-mount swap is heavier (new clamps, fresh silicone bed at the countertop, weight support under the sink during cure). From $400 labor depending on under-mount complexity.
Sink-and-Faucet Combined Swap
Replace both the sink and the faucet at the same visit. Drop-in or under-mount sink, single-handle pull-down or widespread faucet, new braided supply lines, new P-trap, new disposal coupling, new basket strainers and tail piece. The most common upgrade scope on a kitchen update. From $450 labor on a clean drop-in to $650 on an under-mount with a difficult drain.
Garbage Disposal Reconnect or Replace
If the existing disposal is sound, we disconnect it during sink removal and reconnect to the new sink with a new disposal coupling. If the disposal is older or making noise, we will quote a replacement on the same visit (see Garbage Disposal Swap for detail) so both the disposal and the sink line are fresh together. Dishwasher tee — the side tap on the disposal that the dishwasher drain hose connects to — gets a fresh connection on every install.
Pop-Up Drain, Basket Strainers, Tail Piece, P-Trap as Standard
Every sink-and-faucet swap includes new basket strainers (kitchen sink) on every basin, new tail pieces, and a new P-trap when the existing one shows corrosion, kinks, or fails the clearance check for the new sink and disposal. The drain seal at the sink basin is fresh plumber's putty or silicone (silicone on stone composite to avoid staining). New braided stainless steel supply lines on every job.
How a Like-for-Like Kitchen Sink & Faucet Swap Works
Seven sequential steps from booking-call photo confirmation through removal, install, and final leak check — the actual sequence on every Handis kitchen sink and faucet swap.
Confirm Sink and Rough-In from a Booking-Call Photo
Phone photo of the existing sink from above, plus a photo of the angle stops and supply lines under the cabinet, sent on the booking call. Confirms sink configuration (drop-in or under-mount, single-basin or double-basin), faucet hole count, angle-stop condition, and existing disposal model. Sink and faucet ordered to match the rough-in before arrival.
Shut Off Water at the Angle Stops or the Building Main
Angle stops shut off first. If the angle stops are seized or weeping on a soldered connection, we shut off at the building main instead and route the seized angle-stop replacement to the licensed Washington L&I plumber sub before the new sink and faucet go in. Lines drained, small bucket placed under the angle stops to catch residual water.
Disconnect the Existing Sink, Faucet, and Disposal
Disconnect supply lines from the angle stops and the faucet body. Disconnect the disposal from the mounting ring or the under-sink electrical (cord-and-plug unplugged or hardwired disconnect opened). Remove the old P-trap. Lift the faucet body off the sink. For a drop-in sink, release the clip-down kit and lift the sink out. For an under-mount sink, release the clamps and the silicone bond, lower the sink onto a support, and remove from below.
Prep the Countertop and Sink Opening
Clean the countertop opening of old plumber's putty, silicone, and any food or grease residue. Inspect the cutout for chips, water damage, or particle-board swelling on a laminate counter. Inspect the cabinet bottom for water staining or rot from prior leaks. Document any condition that needs separate carpentry or licensed-trade scope.
Install the New Sink to the Countertop Spec
Drop-in sink — fresh plumber's putty or silicone bead at the rim, set into the cutout, clip-down kit torqued from underneath. Under-mount sink — fresh silicone bead at the under-mount perimeter, sink hoisted into position from below, clamps torqued to manufacturer spec, supported on a brace for the silicone cure (typically 24 hours before water use). For drop-in installs, the silicone cures faster and water can return at the end of the visit.
Install the Faucet, Supply Lines, P-Trap, Disposal Coupling
New faucet body seated on the new sink with the manufacturer's gasket or fresh plumber's putty. Mounting hardware torqued from underneath. New braided stainless steel supply lines connected to the angle stops and the faucet body. New basket strainers in every basin. New tail piece, new P-trap if scope warrants. Disposal mounted to the new sink with a new disposal coupling. Dishwasher tee connected to the disposal side tap.
Pressurize, Leak-Check Every Connection, Final Caulk
Water back on at the angle stops or the building main. Every connection leak-checked under pressure for at least three minutes — supply-to-angle-stop, supply-to-faucet, basket strainer to sink, tail piece to disposal, P-trap slip joints, dishwasher tee. Anything that drips gets re-torqued or re-sealed before sign-off. Final perimeter seal at the sink-to-counter joint where the spec calls for it (typically silicone on stone or quartz counters).
Kitchen Sink & Faucet Swap Pricing
Final pricing is labor plus any condition-driven adders. Sink and faucet cost depends on brand line, configuration, and finish (owner-supplied is fine). Anything in-wall (leaking supply nipple, corroded drain stub-out, seized angle stop that needs replacement on a soldered connection) routes to a licensed Washington L&I plumber as a transparent line-item adder. Request a free estimate for an accurate quote.
Send a phone photo of the kitchen sink, the faucet, and the angle stops under the cabinet — we will confirm scope and quote before booking.
Why Handis for Kitchen Sink & Faucet Swaps
Most homeowners who call us about a kitchen sink or faucet swap have already gone to a big-box store, picked out the fixture, and stalled at the install. The DIY install runs aground in the same three places every time. The angle stops will not budge because they have not been turned in fifteen years. The new under-mount sink does not match the existing under-mount cutout and the cabinet bottom now shows a water stain from the prior leak. The new pull-down faucet sprayer hose ends up too short for the supply tie-in because the rough-in below is non-standard. Handis runs the swap as a 60-to-90-minute faucet-only or 2-to-3.5-hour combined visit with the right wrenches, a small bucket, fresh supply lines, and the experience to spot a seized angle stop or a damaged cabinet bottom before it becomes a flood or a wood-rot rebuild. The honest line on in-wall work is on the booking call — anything behind the angle stop routes to the licensed plumber and shows up as a separate line item on the quote.
Confirm sink and rough-in from a phone photo before the truck rolls
Most failed sink or faucet swaps fail because the new fixture does not match the existing rough-in — a single-hole faucet bought for a three-hole sink, an under-mount sink that does not match the existing under-mount cutout, a pull-down sprayer with a hose too short for the supply tie-in. We ask for a clear phone photo of the existing sink from above on the booking call, plus a photo of the angle stops and supply lines under the cabinet, so we can confirm hole count, sink configuration, and rough-in condition. The fixture gets ordered to fit before the truck rolls.
New braided stainless supply lines on every job
The old chrome flex lines or compression-fit copper supply lines come off and stay off. Every sink and faucet swap gets new braided stainless steel supply lines — the standard for residential water supply since the early 2000s, rated for 125 PSI and a 5-year lifespan minimum. Old supply lines are a hidden failure mode behind the cabinet that we never carry forward to a fresh install.
Disposal coupling and dishwasher tee replaced on every combined swap
Every sink-and-faucet combined swap includes a new garbage disposal coupling (the connection between the disposal body and the sink basket strainer) and a fresh dishwasher tee connection. The disposal-to-sink seal is the most-likely failure point under the kitchen sink — we never carry forward an old coupling on a fresh sink install.
Inspect the cabinet bottom for water damage before set
Before the new sink goes in, we inspect the cabinet bottom for water staining, swelling, or rot from prior leaks. A particle-board cabinet bottom that has absorbed water from a slow-drip leak no one caught is the most-common rebuild trigger we surface on a sink swap. If we find damage, we stop and tell you before we proceed — carpentry rebuild scope shows up on a written change order with photos.
Honest plumber handoff on anything in-wall or seized
The angle stops on threaded connections, the supply lines, the P-trap, the disposal coupling, and the dishwasher tee are all handyman scope. The supply nipple behind the angle stop, the drain stub-out behind the wall, a seized angle stop on a soldered connection, and any new fixture rough-in are licensed Washington L&I plumber scope. We confirm what triggers a plumber call on the booking call and name the sub portion separately on the quote.
Leak check under pressure before the visit closes
Water back on, every connection leak-checked under pressure for at least three minutes — supply-to-angle-stop, supply-to-faucet, basket strainer to sink, tail piece to disposal, P-trap slip joints, dishwasher tee. Anything that drips gets re-torqued or re-sealed on the spot. We do not leave a sink at a weeping connection and ask the homeowner to call back.
Insured, background-checked, 30-day workmanship guarantee
Every Handis tech carries liability insurance and has cleared a background screening. 30-day workmanship guarantee — if a connection we made drips, the disposal coupling weeps, the supply line backs out at the angle stop, or the sink mount comes loose at the countertop within 30 days because of our install, we come back and fix it at no extra charge. The guarantee covers our install; it does not cover the faucet cartridge itself failing months later (a known wear part), supply lines damaged from a stored cleaning product leaking inside the cabinet, or aggressive cleaning chemicals stripping the finish.
Estimate
Send us a clear phone photo of the existing kitchen sink from above, a photo of the angle stops and supply lines under the cabinet, and a photo of the existing garbage disposal model number plate. Tell us the new sink and faucet (brand line and finish, or owner-supplied with model numbers), whether the disposal stays or gets replaced, and any known issues — a slow drain, a seized angle stop, a wobbly faucet, an under-cabinet stain that looks like a prior leak. We send a written quote with any plumber-sub scope called out separately when applicable.
Customer Reviews
Kitchen sink and faucet swap reviews from real Handis customers.
New brushed-nickel single-handle Moen pull-down faucet on the existing stainless double-basin sink in our kitchen update. Sent Handis a photo of the existing chrome faucet and the angle stops. They confirmed the four-hole rough-in matched with a deck plate, ordered the faucet, installed it in 90 minutes. New supply lines, new P-trap, fresh dishwasher tee. Pull-down sprayer works smoother than the old one did when it was new.
Old stainless single-basin replaced with a deeper Kraus double-basin in our 1960s kitchen update. The under-mount cutout needed a small chip repaired at the countertop edge before the new sink went in. Tech showed me the chip on a phone photo before he proceeded. New braided supply lines, new disposal coupling, new dishwasher tee. About three and a half hours.
Combined sink and faucet swap on a difficult drain — the existing rough-in was an unusual offset under our 1924 bungalow kitchen. The tech adjusted the new P-trap to fit, swapped the supply lines, set the new drop-in sink. The angle stops were near-seized but he got them turning without snapping. Took the full quoted 4 hours including the cleanup.
Old kitchen sink had been leaking for years without us knowing — the cabinet bottom was rotted from one corner to the middle. Tech caught the damage on the pre-install inspection, sent us a photo with the change order, and the cabinet-bottom rebuild went on its own line item. Once the rebuild was done the new sink went in clean. Caught what would have been a much bigger problem later.
Angle stops in our 1962 split-level kitchen were soldered solid. Tech tried to turn them, got no movement, shut off at the building main, called their plumber sub the same afternoon. The plumber swapped both angle stops with quarter-turn replacements, charged separately on the line item exactly as Handis explained. The faucet swap proceeded once the angle stops were live.
Frequently Asked Questions
Common questions about like-for-like kitchen sink and faucet swaps.