Deck Building

The flat back yard in Ballard waiting for the entertaining deck. The Bellevue split-level whose old 12x16 cedar platform has outlived its 1990s lifespan. The Mercer Island hillside lot where the deck plan needs stamped engineering. The Capitol Hill condo with a south-facing terrace and the building manager requiring a structural memo before any framing happens. The Snoqualmie home where the homeowner is deciding between cedar and composite for the new build. Deck building is the new-construction trade — framing the structure from the post bases up, decking it with the chosen material, railing it to code, capping the rail, fascia-ing the rim, and flashing the ledger if it ties to the house. Handis self-performs all nine service families below — composite, cedar, pressure-treated, PVC, hardwood ipe, multi-level and elevated, floating ground-level, rooftop and condo, and hillside engineered. Permits and stamped engineering on builds that need them are pulled and coordinated by Handis as the general contractor. Peak season is April through September; we book the dry-window calendar early. From $8,000 for a floating ground-level deck to $80,000 for a multi-level engineered hillside build.

Deck building hub image — wide afternoon shot of a newly finished elevated cedar deck on a flat Seattle back yard, mitered fascia at every rim, capped cedar railing on three sides, deck stairs descending to a paver path, and the framing detail visible from the side showing 16-inch joist spacing and through-bolted ledger flashing tucked under the lap siding.

Services

What Deck Building Covers

Deck building is the new-construction side of the deck trade — framing a structure from the post bases up, decking it with the chosen material, railing it to code, capping the rail, and flashing the ledger where the deck ties into the house. Nine service families below covering the full Puget Sound spectrum: the budget pressure-treated builds, the traditional Northwest cedar builds, the modern low-maintenance composites (Trex, TimberTech, Fiberon, Deckorators), the premium PVC and hardwood ipe builds, the multi-level and elevated builds on flat lots, the floating ground-level builds that need no permit, the rooftop and condo builds with their building-management coordination, and the Eastside hillside builds that require engineered footings and stamped drawings. Handis self-performs every cut, every joist hanger, every flashing detail. Permits and engineering on builds that warrant them are pulled and coordinated by Handis as the general contractor.

Composite Deck

Capped polymer over a wood core or solid polymer boards from the four major brand lines we install — Trex, TimberTech, Fiberon, Deckorators. Low maintenance, no annual staining, 25 to 50-year manufacturer warranties depending on the line. The modern Seattle standard for new builds where the homeowner does not want the maintenance cycle. Handis frames, decks, hidden-fastens, rails, caps, and flashes. The composite-deck service hub lists the four brand variants below. From $28,000 for a Fiberon or Deckorators build to $68,000 for a premium TimberTech build on a larger footprint.

Composite Deck — Trex, TimberTech, Fiberon, Deckorators

Cedar Deck

Western red cedar decking and framing — the traditional Northwest material. Warm color new, ages silver-gray on the surface, takes stain well, needs annual or biennial stain to hold its color. Cedar 5/4 by 6-inch decking on PT framing is the standard build; full-cedar framing is an upgrade option for premium builds. Lasts 15 to 30 years on a Pacific Northwest deck with regular maintenance. From $18,000 for a standard 200 to 300-square-foot build to $40,000 for a larger build with cedar railing, cap rail, fascia, and stair detailing.

Cedar Deck — western red cedar decking, PT or cedar framing

Pressure-Treated Deck

Pressure-treated southern yellow pine decking and framing — the lowest-cost build. Treated with copper-based preservative (ACQ or MCA) for ground-contact and wet-exposure durability. Lasts 15 to 25 years with annual staining and proper fastener selection (hot-dipped galvanized or stainless — regular galvanized corrodes against the ACQ chemistry within years). The right choice when budget is the driver and the homeowner accepts the annual maintenance cycle. From $14,000 for a standard build to $28,000 for a larger build with PT railing and stair detailing.

Pressure-Treated Deck — ACQ-treated SYP, hot-dipped galvanized or stainless fasteners

PVC Deck

Cellular PVC decking — fully synthetic, no wood core. The most weather-resistant deck material on the market, with the longest manufacturer warranties (50-year limited residential is common). Slip-resistant texture, color-through construction (scratches do not show a wood core underneath), and the easiest to clean. Premium pricing matches the premium material. From $32,000 for a standard build to $70,000 for a larger build with premium railing and detailing.

PVC Deck — cellular PVC, lifetime-class warranties

Hardwood (Ipe) Deck

Tropical hardwood ipe (also known as Brazilian walnut) decking — the premium natural-wood option, denser and harder than oak, with 50+ year life expectancy when oiled annually. The most expensive material we install. Aesthetic appeal is the dark rich grain that ages to a silver patina if left unoiled. Stainless-steel fasteners or hidden fasteners required — ipe is too hard for standard deck screws. From $40,000 for a standard build to $80,000 for a larger build with ipe railing and cap rail.

Hardwood (Ipe) Deck — tropical hardwood, stainless or hidden fasteners

Multi-Level / Elevated Deck

Decks with two or more levels at different heights, or single-level decks elevated more than 8 feet above grade, requiring stamped structural engineering and more elaborate footing systems. Common on lots where the back yard slopes away from the house or where the floor of the home sits well above grade. Each level is a separate framed structure tied together with stairs. From $35,000 for a two-level build on a moderate elevation to $80,000 for a complex multi-level build on a sloped lot.

Multi-Level / Elevated Deck — two or more levels, stamped engineering

Floating / Ground-Level Deck

Detached deck sitting at or near grade, typically under 30 inches above the ground at any point and not attached to the house. Below Seattle DCI's permit threshold for most jurisdictions (verify with your specific city). The simplest build — no ledger, no railing required by code if under 30 inches, often supported on adjustable deck blocks or shallow piers instead of full-depth concrete footings. From $8,000 for a 200-square-foot floating deck to $18,000 for a larger build with steps and a transition platform.

Floating / Ground-Level Deck — sub-30-inch detached, deck blocks or shallow piers

Rooftop & Condo Deck

Decks built on existing rooftops, condo terraces, and over occupied space below. The complication is structural — the building below was not always designed for the deck load, and most condo associations and rooftop projects require a structural memo or stamped drawings showing the building can carry the loaded deck weight. Pedestal-paver systems over membrane roofing are common; framed wood decks on roof curbs are the alternative. We coordinate the building management or HOA review and pull the permit. From $25,000 for a standard rooftop pedestal-paver deck to $60,000 for a larger framed wood deck on a complex roof.

Rooftop & Condo Deck — pedestal pavers, framed wood, building-management coordination

Hillside / Sloped-Lot Deck

The Eastside specialty — decks on sloped lots where the grade drops away from the house and engineered footings are required by the soil bearing and the loaded deck weight. Helical piers, augered concrete piers with steel post bases, or driven structural piles depending on the soil report and the engineer's drawings. The footing system IS the deck on these builds; the framing is the easier part. Stamped engineering and Seattle DCI (or appropriate jurisdiction) permit on every build. From $35,000 for a moderately sloped lot to $80,000 for a complex multi-level hillside build.

Hillside / Sloped-Lot Deck — engineered footings, stamped drawings, helical or concrete piers

Photo of a Handis deck-building crew mid-frame — a carpenter setting a 2x10 rim joist into a galvanized hanger on a beam, a second carpenter on a ladder leveling the cap rail of the railing system already partially installed, framing nailer and impact driver staged on the deck surface.
Pricing

Deck Building Pricing

Final pricing depends on square footage, material selection, the existing site conditions (flat lot vs slope, attached vs freestanding, ground-level vs elevated), railing material, and whether stamped engineering is required. Each variant page below has detailed pricing for that material or build type. Engineering, Seattle DCI permit fees, and licensed-electrical or licensed-gas portions are pass-through line items named in the project total. Request a free in-home estimate for an accurate quote.

Tell us the lot, the square footage you have in mind, and which material direction you are leaning — we will quote the project including engineering, permits, and licensed-sub coordination.

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Why Homeowners Book Handis for Deck Building
Trust

Why Homeowners Book Handis for Deck Building

A deck is a small structural engineering project disguised as a carpentry job. The frame carries 40 pounds per square foot of live load by IRC, plus the deck weight itself, plus the wet snow and rain loads the Puget Sound puts on it. Multiply by the deck footprint and you are routinely above 10,000 pounds of design load on a mid-size deck — all of it transferred through the joists into the beams, the beams into the posts, the posts into the footings, the footings into the soil. Any one of those load paths failing means the deck moves or eventually drops. The catastrophic deck collapses that hit the news every summer are not random — they are almost always a ledger failure (un-flashed and rotted, or nailed instead of bolted) or a post-base failure (rotted post against wet soil with no concrete pier). Handis builds for the full load path. Framing inspected before deck goes on; flashing inspected before siding closes back. The permit and the engineering are not bureaucratic friction — they are the third-party check that the structure adds up.

Permit and engineering as part of the project — pulled by Handis

Decks over 30 inches above grade, attached decks of any height, multi-level builds, hillside builds, large overhangs, and any build that triggers Seattle DCI (or your jurisdiction's) deck thresholds get a permit under Handis's general-contractor license. Stamped engineering — when the build needs it — is coordinated with a licensed structural engineer on our regular bench. Engineering fees and permit fees are pass-through line items on the quote, named line by line, never marked up.

IRC ledger schedule, through-bolted, Z-flashed, bottom-plate-inspected

Every attached-deck ledger Handis builds is through-bolted with 1/2-inch hot-dipped galvanized or stainless lag bolts at 16-inch on-center staggered top/bottom per the International Residential Code ledger schedule (IRC R507.9.1.3), Z-flashed under the siding with the flashing leg tucked behind the weather-resistive barrier, and the bottom plate of the wall behind the ledger gets opened, inspected, and replaced if there is rot. A ledger bolted to a rotted bottom plate is the failure mode behind most catastrophic deck-collapse incidents.

Post bases on concrete piers, never wood against wet soil

Every post on a Handis-built deck sits on a galvanized or stainless steel post base anchored into a poured concrete pier (or onto a helical pier cap on the engineered builds). Wood directly against wet Puget Sound soil rots from the bottom up — measured in years, not decades. The post-base hardware lifts the post off the concrete by 1 inch, lets the wood drain and dry between rains, and the concrete pier carries the load down to undisturbed soil at the depth the engineer (or the prescriptive code on standard builds) calls for.

Honest material guidance on the booking call

We will tell you on the booking call which material direction makes sense for your budget, your deck life expectancy, and your appetite for the maintenance cycle. PT for the lowest-cost build with annual staining accepted. Cedar for the traditional Northwest look with biennial staining accepted. Composite for the low-maintenance new-build standard with the 25 to 50-year warranties. PVC for the premium long-warranty option. Ipe for the highest-end natural-wood option. We do not push the most-expensive material we sell — we recommend the right one for the project.

Honest licensed-trade handoff, named on the quote

Low-voltage stair and rail lighting (12-volt landscape transformers) stays in Handis scope. Any new line-voltage outdoor outlet, the 240V circuit for a hot tub on the new deck, any hardwired pergola fixture, or any gas line for a fire feature routes to a licensed Washington L&I electrician or licensed gas fitter — named on the quote with the permit owner identified. We are not licensed electricians or gas fitters and we do not pretend to be.

Insured, background-checked, written project warranty

Handis carries general liability and workers' compensation; every carpenter has cleared a background screening before the first job. One-year warranty on decking, railing, cap rail, fascia, and finishes; two-year warranty on structural framing (joists, beams, posts, ledger flashing) on full new builds. If any structural member fails inside two years, we come back and replace it at no extra charge. The licensed-electrical and licensed-gas portions carry their own L&I-trade warranties.

Estimate

Tell us the lot (flat back yard, sloped hillside, rooftop or condo terrace), the deck attachment (attached to the house, freestanding, multi-level), the rough square footage you have in mind, the material direction (PT, cedar, composite, PVC, ipe — or undecided and want a recommendation), the railing material preference, and any add-ons (stairs to a lower level, built-in benches, hot-tub pad, low-voltage lighting). We send a clear estimate with engineering, permits, and licensed-sub portions named line by line.

Service cost estimate illustration
Reviews

Customer Reviews

Recent deck building reviews from real Handis customers across the Puget Sound.

FAQ

Frequently Asked Questions

Common questions about Handis deck building — pricing, materials, permits, timeline, engineering, and what fits your lot and budget.

How much does a deck cost?
A floating ground-level deck starts at $8,000. A pressure-treated rectangular deck starts at $14,000. A cedar deck starts at $18,000. A rooftop or condo deck starts at $25,000 because of the building-management coordination and the membrane-roof detailing. A composite deck (Trex, TimberTech, Fiberon, Deckorators) starts at $28,000. A PVC deck starts at $32,000. A multi-level or hillside engineered build starts at $35,000. A hardwood ipe deck starts at $40,000. Premium builds with cap-rail detailing, glass or cable railings, built-in benches, hot-tub pad reinforcement, and multi-level configurations land at the top of the range — $60,000 to $80,000. You get a written estimate before any work begins, with engineering, permits, and licensed-sub portions named line by line.
How long does the build take?
A floating ground-level deck finishes in 5 to 7 working days. A pressure-treated rectangular deck runs 7 to 10 working days. A cedar deck runs 8 to 12 working days. A composite deck runs 10 to 15 working days because of the longer fastening time and the cap-rail and fascia detailing. A multi-level or hillside engineered build runs three to six weeks including the framing-inspection wait. A rooftop or condo build adds time for the building-management or HOA review. Engineering and permit time is two to four weeks before any framing starts. The working-day schedule and the calendar dates go on the quote at contract signing.
Composite, cedar, pressure-treated, PVC, or ipe — which is right for me?
Pressure-treated (PT, $14,000 to $28,000) when budget is the primary driver and you accept the annual-stain maintenance cycle. Cedar ($18,000 to $40,000) when you want the traditional Northwest look and accept the biennial-stain cycle. Composite ($28,000 to $68,000 across Trex, TimberTech, Fiberon, Deckorators) when low maintenance and the modern look matter and the 25 to 50-year warranties are the right tradeoff for the higher up-front cost. PVC ($32,000 to $70,000) when you want the longest manufacturer warranties and the most weather-resistant material. Ipe ($40,000 to $80,000) when budget is not the driver and you want the premium natural-hardwood look with 50+ year life. We will walk you through each on the booking call and recommend the right direction for your specific project.
Do I need a permit for my deck?
Depends on the deck. In Seattle (and most Washington jurisdictions), decks under 30 inches above grade and not attached to the house typically do not require a permit. Decks over 30 inches above grade, any attached deck of any height, multi-level builds, hillside builds, and large pergolas or covers require a Seattle DCI permit and in most cases stamped structural engineering drawings. Handis pulls the permit under our general-contractor license, coordinates the engineering if required, schedules the framing and final inspections, and provides the permit copy at project close. Permit fees and engineering fees are pass-through line items on the quote.
What is the deck-collapse issue I read about?
Catastrophic deck-collapse incidents are almost always caused by ledger failure — the long horizontal board attaching the deck to the house pulling away under load. The two failure modes are nail-attached ledgers (instead of through-bolted with the IRC lag schedule) and ledgers bolted to rotted bottom plate behind un-flashed siding. Every Handis attached-deck ledger is through-bolted with 1/2-inch hot-dipped galvanized or stainless lag bolts at 16-inch on-center staggered top and bottom per IRC R507.9.1.3, Z-flashed under the siding with the flashing leg tucked behind the weather-resistive barrier, and the bottom plate of the wall behind the ledger gets opened, inspected, and replaced if rotted before any bolts go in. The inspection IS part of the build, not an option.
Why is engineering required on hillside builds?
Sloped lots, multi-level builds, and decks elevated more than 8 feet above grade carry larger loads through fewer support points, and the soil bearing capacity on a slope is different than on a flat lot. A licensed structural engineer designs the footing system (helical piers, augered concrete piers, or driven structural piles) sized to the loaded deck weight and the soil bearing per the geotechnical report when one is required, designs the beam-to-post and beam-to-joist connections for the larger spans, and stamps the drawings that go with the permit application. The engineering exists because the loads on these builds are large enough that prescriptive code does not cover them. Handis coordinates a licensed structural engineer on our regular bench and the engineering fee is a pass-through line on the quote.
How long do decks last in the Puget Sound climate?
Pressure-treated lasts 15 to 25 years with annual staining and proper hot-dipped galvanized or stainless fasteners. Cedar lasts 15 to 30 years with annual or biennial staining (untreated cedar lasts shorter; properly stained cedar can run 25+ years). Composite (Trex, TimberTech, Fiberon, Deckorators) carries 25 to 50-year manufacturer warranties depending on the line and most builds outlive the warranty in normal use. PVC carries the longest residential warranties — typically 50-year limited — and is the most weather-resistant material. Ipe lasts 50+ years when oiled annually. The Puget Sound climate is wet but mild (no harsh freeze-thaw, no UV extremes); deck life is largely a function of maintenance and material choice, not the climate itself.
Can you frame a hot tub into the deck?
Yes — hot-tub framing is a Handis specialty. A filled and occupied 4-to-8 person hot tub runs 3,500 to 6,500 pounds, well above the standard 40 PSF residential deck design load. On new builds we frame the hot-tub section as a separate point-loaded structure inside the deck framing — typically sistered 2x10 or 2x12 joists at 12-inch on-center over the tub footprint, a doubled beam underneath, and additional posts on dedicated concrete piers sized to the tub weight. On existing-deck retrofits we reinforce the existing framing the same way after a structural inspection. The 240V hot-tub circuit routes to a licensed Washington L&I electrician on a scheduled visit inside the build calendar.
When is the best time of year to build a deck in Seattle?
April through September is the peak build window — the dry-and-warm weather covers the stain-and-sealer cure window (three to seven dry days for stained surfaces) and the concrete-pier cure (above-freezing for the first 48 hours). October through March is harder — we continue to build through the winter on covered framing, on builds with composite or PVC decking (no stain cycle to wait on), and in dry stretches, but the calendar is more conditional and the schedule may stretch. May through July weeks fill out by late February most years — book early for a spring or early-summer install.
Do you cover the whole Puget Sound region?
Yes — service area covers north Seattle and Shoreline through Bellevue, Redmond, Issaquah, Sammamish, Renton, Tukwila, Burien, and south to Federal Way. Hillside engineered builds on the Eastside (Mercer Island, Issaquah Highlands, Sammamish, Klahanie) are a specialty — the engineered footings and stamped-drawing coordination are routine for us. Builds on the I-90 corridor (North Bend, Snoqualmie) are covered with a travel premium named on the quote before you sign. Rooftop and condo builds in Capitol Hill, Belltown, South Lake Union, and downtown Seattle are covered with the building-management coordination included.
Is the work guaranteed?
Yes. Handis carries general liability and workers' compensation; every carpenter has cleared a background screening before the first job. One-year warranty covers decking, railing, cap rail, fascia, and finishes. Two-year warranty covers structural framing — joists, beams, posts, ledger flashing — on full new builds. If any structural member fails inside two years, we come back and replace it at no charge. The licensed-electrical and licensed-gas portions (where they appear on the quote) carry their own Washington L&I-trade warranties under their license numbers, also named on the quote so you know whom to call for what.

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