Safety & Childproofing Services

Safety and childproofing is the residential trade that installs the hardware preventing the worst kind of household incident — hardware-mounted stair gates anchored into studs, NFPA-72-placed smoke and CO detectors, ADA 250-lb-rated grab bars, and whole-home childproofing — from $120 for a single anchor or detector to $700 for whole-home childproofing. A baby due in six weeks and a house that was never set up for one. A stair gate still in the Amazon box because the banister and the wall do not line up. Smoke detectors from 2014 that chirp every six months and get the battery pulled instead. Handis sends one vetted handyman with metal brackets, NFPA-compliant detectors, and ADA-rated grab bars in the truck — every piece needs a stud, a level, and the right anchor for the wall behind it.

Safety and childproofing sub-hub image — wide shot of a residential second-floor landing with a hardware-mounted stair gate at the top of the staircase, a smoke detector on the ceiling, and a corner guard on the edge of a hallway table.

Services

What Does Safety & Childproofing Include?

Safety and childproofing is one trade with one core skill — find the stud or the rated solid-mount anchor, then back the hardware into it. The work covers four service families on this sub-hub (whole-home childproofing, hardware-mounted stair gates, NFPA-72 smoke and CO detector swaps, and ADA 250-lb grab bars), plus a fifth — anti-tip furniture anchoring — cross-linked from the canonical mounting page. Plastic strap kits, suction-cup grab bars, and over-the-counter pressure gates at the top of a staircase are the three failures that show up over and over again, and all three are agnostic to the brand on the box, so you do not book the same job twice.

Childproofing Package (Whole-Home)

Cabinet locks (magnetic on quality kitchen and bath cabinets, adhesive latches on the rest), tamper-resistant outlet covers, corner guards on coffee tables and fireplace hearths, stove knob covers, toilet locks, and pressure gates at doorways and room dividers. Done in one visit, walked room by room, with the items most parents miss — the floor register, the laundry detergent shelf, the under-sink chemical bay — included. From $250 for a small two-room scope to $700 for whole-home. Stair gates and anti-tip anchoring are separate line items on the same visit.

Childproofing Package — cabinet locks, outlet covers, corner guards, pressure gates

Stair Gate Installation

Hardware-mounted gates at the top and the bottom of stairs, anchored into wall studs or rated banister kits — never pressure-mounted at the top, where the gate can be pushed out by a child leaning on it. Banister-to-wall conversion kits for the common case where one side is a banister post and the other is drywall. From $120 for a single gate on standard drywall to $300 for a banister-to-banister run with a Y-spindle kit.

Stair Gate Installation — top, bottom, banister kits, hardware-mount

Smoke & CO Detector Replacement (Battery / 10-Year Sealed)

Battery-powered and 10-year sealed-lithium replacements for smoke alarms and combination smoke/CO units. Placement per NFPA 72 (National Fire Alarm Code) — one on every level, one inside every bedroom, one outside every sleeping area, and CO alarms within 10 feet of every sleeping-area door. Smoke detectors expire at 10 years, CO detectors at 5 to 7 — we read the manufacture date on the back of each unit and swap what is past due. Hardwired detectors on a new circuit are outside this trade and route to a licensed Washington L&I electrician. From $120 for a single battery unit to $350 for a six-unit whole-home swap.

Smoke & CO Detector Replacement — battery, 10-year sealed, NFPA 72 placement

Grab Bar Installation (ADA 250-lb Rated)

Stainless-steel ADA-compliant grab bars rated to 250 pounds, installed in showers, beside toilets, and at tub edges. Mounted into studs or a rated solid-mount anchor — never into drywall alone, never with a suction-cup base. The standard install backs the bar into blocking behind the tile; on plaster or thin tile, longer-shank toggles or a fender-washer plate distribute the load. From $180 per bar to $500 for a three-bar bath set.

Grab Bar Installation — ADA 250-lb, shower, toilet, tub

Anti-Tip Anchoring (Cross-Linked to Mounting)

Anti-tip anchoring for dressers, bookshelves, TVs on stands, and freestanding ranges is the same trade — metal L-brackets bolted into studs, the CPSC tracks one tip-over incident in an emergency room every 53 minutes — but the canonical page lives under Mounting and Hanging. Book it from there; we will combine it with childproofing or grab bars into one visit and one trip charge.

Heavy-Item Anchoring & Anti-Tip — dressers, bookshelves, TVs, ranges, water heaters

Wide editorial photo of a safety and childproofing job in progress — handyman installing a hardware-mounted stair gate at the top of a staircase, drill in hand, with a small box of cabinet locks, outlet covers, and a sealed-lithium smoke detector staged on a drop cloth nearby.
Pricing

Safety & Childproofing Pricing

Final pricing depends on item count, wall types, and whether the visit also covers anti-tip anchoring (cross-linked from Mounting). Each service page lists detailed pricing for that family of work. Multi-task visits are cheaper per task than booking each item separately. Request a free estimate for an accurate quote.

Tell us what is on the list — childproofing, gates, detectors, grab bars — and we will quote the full visit.

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Why Homeowners Book Handis for Safety Work
Trust

Why Homeowners Book Handis for Safety Work

Most safety jobs fail the same three ways — a pressure gate at the top of the stairs that a two-year-old can shove out by leaning on it, a grab bar suction-cupped to tile that comes off the day someone needs it most, and a smoke detector that gets disconnected after the third false alarm and never goes back up. After a few hundred childproofing walkthroughs across Seattle drywall, plaster over lath, tile-over-cement-board, and old wet-plaster bathrooms, every one of those failures has a fix in the truck. We anchor into studs by default and we read the manufacture date on every detector before we leave.

Hardware-mounted at the top of every staircase

Pressure-mounted gates work for doorways and room dividers — the wall takes the load and a small bump does not move the gate. At the top of stairs the load profile is different: a child leaning into the gate puts horizontal force on the tension bars, and pressure-mounted gates can pop out from a sustained push. We hardware-mount every top-of-stairs gate into studs or a rated banister kit. Bottom-of-stairs and doorway gates we will pressure-mount when the wall supports it; otherwise we hardware-mount those too.

Detector placement per NFPA 72

The National Fire Alarm Code (NFPA 72) sets the minimum: a smoke alarm on every level of the home including the basement, one inside every bedroom, one outside every sleeping area, and CO alarms within 10 feet of every sleeping-area door. We walk the house, count what is there, read the manufacture date on each unit (smoke detectors expire at 10 years per NFPA 72; CO at 5 to 7 per manufacturer), and replace what is past due. Hardwired interconnect on a dedicated circuit is electrician work and routes to a licensed Washington L&I contractor.

Grab bars backed into studs, not drywall

ADA grab bars must hold a 250-pound static load — the over-the-counter suction-cup bars sold for travel do not meet that rating and fail the wall. We back every grab bar into a stud, into blocking behind the tile, or into a rated solid-mount anchor sized to the load (longer-shank toggles plus a fender-washer plate when stud spacing does not align with the bar). The bar gets pull-tested before we leave.

Walked room by room, not from a checklist

Childproofing-from-a-kit misses the things in your house — the wall outlet behind the couch your child can reach by climbing the armrest, the unsecured floor register in the hallway, the laundry detergent shelf two feet off the ground. We walk every room with you, note what you have already covered, and install only what is actually missing. The walkthrough is included in the whole-home package.

Insured, background-checked, 30-day workmanship guarantee

Safety work puts our team in nurseries, bathrooms, and bedrooms. Every Handis handyman carries liability insurance and has cleared a background screening before the first job. If a gate loosens, a grab bar pulls, a cabinet lock fails, or a detector we mounted falls within 30 days because of our workmanship, we come back and fix it at no extra charge.

Estimate

List the rooms, the items, and any specifics you know — wall types (drywall, plaster, tile), stair layout (wall-to-wall or banister), bath layout, and detector count. We will send back a clear estimate for the full visit.

Service cost estimate illustration
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FAQ

Frequently Asked Questions

Common questions about safety and childproofing — pricing, scope, what NFPA 72 requires, and what routes to a licensed contractor.

How much do safety and childproofing services cost?
Smoke or CO detector replacement and single stair gate installation both start at $120 per piece. Single-room childproofing starts at $150. Grab bar installation starts at $180 per ADA-rated bar. A whole-home childproofing package runs $250 to $700 depending on room count and item scope. Banister-to-banister gate kits with a Y-spindle run $300. A six-unit whole-home detector swap runs $350. A three-bar bath grab bar set runs $500. Multi-task visits are cheaper per task than booking each item separately — list everything on the booking call and we will quote the full visit.
When should I childproof my home?
Before your baby starts crawling — usually around six to eight months. Scheduling a few weeks ahead is ideal because once a child is mobile, hazards become urgent within days. Most parents call after the first close call (a cabinet pulled open, an outlet that suddenly became interesting), but doing the work ahead of time is the safer pattern. Whole-home childproofing packages are designed exactly for the pre-crawling window.
What is the difference between a pressure-mounted gate and a hardware-mounted gate?
A pressure-mounted gate uses tension bars that wedge against opposing walls or door frames — easy to install, easy to remove, no holes in the wall. A hardware-mounted gate is screwed directly into wall studs or into a rated banister kit. Pressure gates are appropriate for doorways and room dividers where a small bump does not move the gate. The top of a staircase requires a hardware-mounted gate, no exceptions — a child leaning into the tension bars can pop a pressure gate out, and a fall down the stairs is exactly the incident the gate exists to prevent. The bottom of stairs and most doorways accept either, and we choose based on the wall.
How do I know if my smoke detectors need replacing?
Check the manufacture date on the back of each unit. Per NFPA 72 (the National Fire Alarm Code), smoke detectors expire 10 years from the manufacture date. Combination smoke/CO units expire when the CO sensor expires — typically 5 to 7 years depending on the manufacturer. If the unit has no date stamp, or the date is past, or the alarm chirps for any reason other than a low battery and a clean reset, it should be replaced. Pressing the test button only verifies the speaker and the battery — it does not verify the sensor still works.
Where should smoke and CO detectors be installed?
NFPA 72 sets the minimum: a smoke alarm on every level of the home including the basement, one inside every bedroom, one outside every sleeping area (in a central hallway), and CO alarms within 10 feet of every sleeping-area door. Smoke alarms go on the ceiling at least 4 inches from the wall, or on the wall 4 to 12 inches from the ceiling — never in the dead-air corner. Avoid placement within 10 feet of a cooking appliance (false alarms) or within 3 feet of a bathroom door (steam triggers). We walk the house, count what is there, and place per NFPA 72.
Why do grab bars need to be ADA-rated, and what does 250 pounds mean?
The Americans with Disabilities Act (ADA) accessibility standard requires grab bars to withstand a 250-pound static load applied in any direction (downward, outward, along the bar). Bars that meet this rating are stainless steel with reinforced flanges and require structural backing — a stud, blocking behind tile, or a rated solid-mount anchor. The cheap suction-cup travel bars sold for hotels do not meet the rating and fail the wall under any real load. Adults catching a slip in the shower can put well over 250 pounds of dynamic force on a bar — ADA-rated hardware is the floor, not the ceiling.
Can you install grab bars on tile without cracking it?
Yes. The tile is drilled with a diamond-tipped or carbide masonry bit at low RPM, with a small piece of painter's tape over the drill point to prevent the bit from walking. Behind the tile we are looking for one of three things — a stud (best), structural blocking installed during the bath build (also good), or empty cavity (requires a longer-shank toggle plus a fender-washer plate to distribute the load). If the bath was built with blocking in the wet wall (a common practice for new construction since the mid-2000s), grab bar placement is flexible. If not, the bar location is dictated by where the studs land.
What safety work does Handis NOT do?
We do not run new electrical circuits, do not hardwire smoke detectors into a dedicated 120V loop, do not interconnect hardwired alarms, and do not do new gas work. Hardwired interconnect detector systems on a new circuit, kitchen-hood fire-suppression systems, and any new wiring for security or monitoring all route to a licensed Washington L&I electrician — we will tell you on the booking call when a request crosses that line. We also do not install permanent pool fencing with new post footings (that is a fencing contractor) or replace structural framing behind a wall.
Are anti-tip anchors part of this sub-hub?
The work is the same trade, but the canonical page lives under Mounting and Hanging — see [Heavy-Item Anchoring & Anti-Tip](/services/handyman-and-home-repairs/mounting-and-hanging/heavy-item-anchoring-anti-tip) for full details on dressers, bookshelves, TV anti-tip straps, freestanding ranges, and water-heater seismic strapping. The CPSC tracks one furniture tip-over emergency every 53 minutes and specifically warns against the plastic strap kits that ship in furniture boxes. If you book a childproofing visit and you also want anti-tip anchoring, mention it on the call and we will combine both into one visit and one trip charge.
How quickly can I get someone out?
Most safety jobs schedule within three to five business days. Same-week is normal in fall and winter; spring is the busiest childproofing season (a lot of pre-crawl scheduling) and can run a week to ten days. For a true urgency — a baby gate that has come loose, a grab bar pulling out of the wall, a detector that has fallen — we will work to get someone out the next day where the schedule allows. The detector swap is the fastest single-visit item; the whole-home childproofing package is a half-day block.
Is the work guaranteed?
Yes. Every Handis handyman is background-checked, insured, and on the hook for a 30-day workmanship guarantee. If a gate loosens, a grab bar pulls, a cabinet lock fails, an anchor we set comes out, or a detector we mounted falls within 30 days because of our workmanship, we come back and fix it at no extra charge. The guarantee covers our installation — it does not cover damage from overloading past a rated weight, a wall failure unrelated to our hardware, or a detector battery that runs down (10-year sealed units do not have a serviceable battery; battery units need a yearly battery replacement and a button-press test on the same date you change the smoke alarm clocks).

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