Cedar Pergola Construction
Handis cedar pergola construction puts a Western Red Cedar timber-frame open-roof structure on a residential deck, patio, or backyard — 6x6 cedar posts on concrete-set Simpson ABU anchors, 4x8 or 6x8 cedar beams across the top, 2x6 or 2x8 cedar rafters with chamfered tails, attached to the house with a ledger or freestanding on its own footings — from $5,000 for an 8-by-10 freestanding plan to $14,000 for a 12-by-16 attached cedar build. Cedar is the natural-wood answer most Seattle backyards ask for when they say they want a pergola. It weathers from honey-amber to silver-grey over 12 to 18 months in PNW exposure, requires no sealing or staining (we recommend leaving it to weather), holds its dimensional stability in the wet-dry cycle better than fir or spruce, and reads as honest furniture-grade woodwork rather than manufactured product. The build runs 2 to 4 days on site — power-auger the footings, pour concrete with post-base anchors set in the wet pour, 48-hour concrete cure, post-raise / beam-set / rafter install over the next two days.
Service
What Does a Cedar Pergola Build Include?
A cedar pergola build is the timber-frame outdoor-carpentry service that raises a Western Red Cedar open-roof structure over a residential deck, patio, or backyard — covering site review and post-location layout, footing dig with a power auger to 24 to 30 inches below grade, concrete pour with Simpson ABA or ABU post-base anchors set in the wet pour, 48-hour concrete cure, post raise with a deck post jack on standard 8-foot or 10-foot cedar 6x6 posts, beam set with two installers (4x8 cedar beams on standard spans, 6x8 cedar beams on spans over 12 feet), rafter install with chamfered or scalloped decorative tails (2x6 cedar on standard plans, 2x8 cedar on larger plans), Simpson ZMAX or stainless hardware on every beam-to-post and rafter-to-beam connection, and finish detailing (post-cap, post-base trim, rafter-end chamfer). Handis covers cedar pergolas from $5,000 on the 8-by-10 freestanding plan up to $14,000 on the 12-by-16 attached configuration.
Western Red Cedar — Heartwood When Available
We build in Western Red Cedar — heartwood when we can source it (the darker, denser inner cuts from older trees, more rot-resistant than the lighter sap-wood outer cuts), structural-grade clear cedar when heartwood is unavailable. Cedar is naturally rot-resistant and insect-resistant from the cedar oils, weathers silver-grey instead of greying-then-blackening like pressure-treated pine, and holds its dimensional stability in the PNW wet-dry cycle. Pressure-treated pine is not a substitute on visible structure — the green-yellow chemical look does not match what homeowners want when they say they want a cedar pergola, and the PT pine dimensional instability is worse than cedar in our climate.
Concrete Footings Dug to 24 to 30 Inches
Power-auger every footing to 24 to 30 inches below grade — the IRC R403 frost-line minimum for King and Snohomish County is 24 inches; high-exposure sites (mountain-adjacent, exposed-bluff) step deeper. Footing diameter runs 12 to 18 inches depending on the post size and the wind-load calc. Simpson ABA or ABU post-base anchor set plumb in the wet concrete pour, 48-hour concrete cure before the post is raised. The footing IS the structure on a pergola; a cedar post buried in dirt (the DIY shortcut) leans within five years.
Beam-and-Rafter Spec Up-Sized to Span
Standard plan: 4x8 cedar beams on spans under 12 feet, 2x6 cedar rafters spaced 24 inches on center. Up-sized plan (12 to 16 feet of beam span): 6x8 cedar beams, 2x8 cedar rafters spaced 16 inches on center for the additional stiffness and the visual weight that matches the larger structure. Beam-to-post connection is through-bolted with a 5/8 inch carriage bolt or structural screw through a Simpson ZMAX post cap. Rafter-to-beam connection is a concealed structural screw with a Simpson H1 or A35 hurricane tie at the structural attachment points.
Chamfered or Scalloped Rafter Tails
The decorative end-detail on the rafter tails is the visible carpentry signature of a cedar pergola. Standard chamfer: a 45-degree bevel cut on the rafter end with the chop saw or a router. Scalloped: a curved decorative cut with a jig on the chop saw. The detail gets sanded smooth and the chamfer transitions get a 1/8 inch ease on the leading edges so the rafter ends do not splinter against a brushed sleeve. We confirm the rafter-tail style on the design call before the rafters are cut.
Simpson ZMAX or Stainless Hardware
Every beam-to-post, rafter-to-beam, and post-to-base connection uses Simpson ZMAX (G185 hot-dip galvanized) or 304/316 stainless hardware — galvanic-corrosion compatible with the tannic acid in cedar and the PNW wet-cycle exposure. Standard electro-galvanized hardware corrodes against cedar tannins within 18 to 24 months — black streaks run down the post from the connection, and the connection itself degrades. ZMAX or stainless is the spec on every Handis cedar pergola; we do not substitute the cheaper coating because the failure mode is visible from the patio chair within two summers.
How a Cedar Pergola Build Works
Seven sequential steps from site review through the rafter-tail chamfer — the actual sequence we follow on every Western Red Cedar pergola build.
Site Review and Post-Location Layout
Tech walks the deck or patio, confirms the post locations against any septic, gas, irrigation, or buried utility lines, marks the footing centers with stakes and string, and validates the layout square (3-4-5 method) against the deck edges or property lines. The layout review IS the work at this stage; a mis-located footing is a footing dug twice.
Power-Auger the Footings to 24-30 Inches
Power-auger every footing to 24 to 30 inches below grade, depending on the IRC R403 frost-line for the jurisdiction and the wind-load calc for the structure. Footing diameter 12 to 18 inches depending on the post size and the load. Manual post-hole digging in PNW clay is a week of labor we are not going to pass along.
Pour Concrete with Simpson ABU Anchors Set in the Wet Pour
Pour ready-mix concrete around a Simpson ABA or ABU post-base anchor set plumb in the wet pour. The anchor takes the post; the concrete cures around the anchor over the next 48 hours. Anchor positioning checked against a 4-foot level and a chalk line so every post lands plumb and the structure reads square.
48-Hour Concrete Cure Between Pour and Post-Raise
Concrete cures 48 hours before the post is raised. The cure delay is fixed (not negotiable — green concrete pulls the anchor when the post load goes on). On a two-day build window we pour day one and raise day two; on a one-trip build we pre-cure the footings on a prior visit and raise on the second visit.
Raise the 6x6 Cedar Posts and Set the Beams
6x6 cedar posts lifted onto the cured ABU anchors and through-bolted with the post-base hardware. Each post plumbed against a 4-foot level on two faces and braced with 2x4 cedar braces to the ground until the beams go up. 4x8 (standard span) or 6x8 (over-12-foot span) cedar beams raised with a deck post jack and two installers, set into Simpson ZMAX post-cap hardware, through-bolted with 5/8 inch carriage bolts.
Install the 2x6 or 2x8 Cedar Rafters
Cedar rafters (2x6 standard, 2x8 on larger plans) cut to the planned length with the decorative end-detail chamfered or scalloped at the chop-saw station. Rafters set into Simpson H1 or A35 hurricane ties on the structural attachment points, concealed structural screws on the decorative connections. Rafter spacing 24 inches on center (standard) or 16 inches on center (larger plans for additional stiffness and visual weight).
Chamfer the Rafter Tails and Finish-Detail
Rafter tails get the final chamfer pass with a router or chop-saw jig, sanded smooth, and the leading edges eased to a 1/8 inch radius so a sleeve does not splinter against them. Post caps installed (square cedar caps, ball-top caps, or simple flat-cut depending on the design). Post-base trim hides the post-to-anchor connection. Tools off site by end of the second day on standard plans.
Cedar Pergola Pricing
Final pricing depends on plan size (footprint in feet by feet), attached vs freestanding configuration, beam up-size requirement on spans over 12 feet, rafter spacing (24 vs 16 inches on center), decorative rafter-tail detail (chamfered vs scalloped), and whether any low-voltage lighting integration is in scope. Attached cedar pergolas include the structural permit fee as a pass-through line item. Request a free estimate for an accurate quote.
Tell us the footprint, whether it attaches to the house or stands free, and whether you want the chamfered or scalloped rafter tails — we will quote the full cedar build with the hardware and permit scope called out.
Why Handis for Cedar Pergola Construction
The reason cedar pergolas read as furniture-grade carpentry instead of a kit assembly is the hardware spec and the rafter-tail detail. Simpson ZMAX hardware in galvanic-corrosion-compatible coating, post-base anchors set plumb in cured concrete, beam-to-post connections through-bolted with 5/8 carriage bolts and not toe-nailed, rafter-to-beam connections with concealed structural screws and hurricane ties at the structural points, and rafter tails chamfered or scalloped on the chop saw with the sanding pass and the 1/8 inch ease on the leading edges. None of those details are visible from a Pinterest photo — and skipping any of them is what makes the difference between a cedar pergola that reads as honest woodwork and one that reads as a backyard project. The cedar weathering to silver over 12 to 18 months is the design intent; the underlying carpentry is what makes the structure last 25 years instead of 8.
Western Red Cedar heartwood when we can source it
Heartwood cedar — the darker, denser inner cuts from older trees — is more rot-resistant and dimensionally stable than the lighter sap-wood outer cuts. We source heartwood when available and structural-grade clear cedar when not. Pressure-treated pine is not a substitute on visible structure; the green-yellow chemical look does not match what homeowners want when they ask for a cedar pergola, and the dimensional instability of PT pine in PNW wet-dry cycles is worse than cedar.
Power-augered footings to 24 to 30 inches, sized to wind load
Footings get power-augered to 24 to 30 inches below grade — the IRC R403 frost-line minimum for King and Snohomish County is 24 inches; high-exposure sites step deeper. Footing diameter 12 to 18 inches depending on the post size and the wind-load calc. Manual post-hole digging in PNW clay is a week of labor we are not going to pass along, and a 16-inch footing on a 6x6 cedar post is structurally non-negotiable on the larger plans.
48-hour concrete cure before the post is raised
Concrete cures 48 hours between the pour and the post-raise. The cure delay is fixed (not negotiable — green concrete pulls the anchor when the post load goes on). On a two-day build window we pour day one and raise day two; on a one-trip build we pre-cure the footings on a prior visit. Skipping the cure puts the structure on a soft anchor that leans within the first wind event.
Simpson ZMAX or stainless hardware throughout — cedar-tannin compatible
Every beam-to-post, rafter-to-beam, and post-to-base connection uses Simpson ZMAX (G185 hot-dip galvanized) or 304/316 stainless hardware. Standard electro-galvanized hardware corrodes against cedar tannins within 18 to 24 months — black streaks run down the post from the connection, and the connection itself degrades. The ZMAX-or-stainless spec is non-negotiable on every cedar build because the failure mode is visible from the patio chair within two summers.
Beams up-sized on spans over 12 feet
Standard plan uses 4x8 cedar beams on spans under 12 feet; spans over 12 feet step up to 6x8 cedar beams. Rafter spacing on standard plans is 24 inches on center with 2x6 cedar rafters; larger plans step up to 16 inches on center with 2x8 cedar rafters for the additional stiffness and the visual weight that matches the larger structure. We do not under-spec the beams to hit a lower price — the structure either reads square in five years or it sags, and the sag is from beam-spec, not from finish.
One-year project warranty on carpentry
One-year project warranty on our carpentry — post-set, beam-raise, rafter install, hardware torque, decorative-detail finish. Cedar weathering to silver in 12 to 18 months is the natural patina and not a warranty issue. The structure stays plumb and square for the life of the cedar (25+ years on heartwood, 18 to 25 on clear) given the concrete-set footings and the corrosion-compatible hardware.
Estimate
Tell us the footprint (rough length by width — a 12-by-14 measurement off the deck or patio), whether the pergola attaches to the house or stands free, the rafter-tail detail you prefer (standard 45-degree chamfer or decorative scalloped), and any low-voltage lighting you want integrated in the rafters. We name the structural permit scope on attached configurations as a pass-through line item.
Customer Reviews
Cedar pergola reviews from real Handis customers.
12x16 freestanding cedar pergola over our flagstone patio in Magnolia. Handis power-augered the six footings, set 6x6 cedar posts on Simpson ABU anchors, raised the up-sized 6x8 beams with a deck post jack, and chamfered the 2x6 rafter tails. Two summers in and the cedar is right at that silver-grey patina we wanted. Reads exactly like the inspiration photos.
10x12 attached cedar pergola off the back deck in our 1962 Mercer Island split-level. Handis pulled the Mercer Island permit, through-bolted the ledger into the rim joist with the Z-flashing kit at the top to keep water out of the wall, set the two outer posts on auger-dug footings. Cedar reads as if it has always been there. Final inspection cleared first pass.
12x14 freestanding cedar pergola in our Ballard backyard — covers the full dining table. Heavy clay in the lot meant the manual post-hole digging would have taken a week. Handis brought the power auger, dug all six footings in an afternoon, poured the concrete, came back two days later and had the structure up by end of day two. Scalloped rafter tails, ball-top post caps, looks like furniture.
8x10 freestanding cedar pergola over our hot tub in Kirkland. Smallest standard plan but Handis took the same care — power-augered footings, plumb posts on the Simpson anchors, chamfered rafter tails, low-voltage LED strip in the rafters they ran from the existing exterior receptacle. Under 200 sq ft so no Kirkland permit. Five days from booking call to finished pergola.
14x16 freestanding cedar pergola in our Sammamish backyard — the largest plan they recommended for our space. Up-sized 6x8 beams because the 14-foot span needs the bigger beam, 2x8 rafters at 16 on center for the visual weight. The carpentry is dead-square — I checked it with my own framing square after they left and every corner reads true.
Frequently Asked Questions
Common questions about Handis cedar pergola construction.