Shower-to-Tub Conversion
Shower-to-tub conversion is the reverse Handis bath path — a shower-only bath gets an alcove tub put back in. The reason is almost always resale (Seattle homes without a tub appraise lower and sit longer on the market, particularly in family-oriented neighborhoods like Wallingford, Ravenna, Magnolia, and most of the Eastside) or a growing family (a newborn or toddler needs a tub to bathe in safely — a shower is not workable for the first few years). The standard 60-inch alcove tub footprint usually fits in an existing 60-inch shower stall with framing adjusted; the licensed Washington L&I plumber converts the 2-inch shower drain back to a combo tub-and-overflow assembly and repositions the shower valve down to standard tub height. Five to seven working days. From $5,000 for a standard alcove acrylic tub with an acrylic surround to $10,000 for a top-end build with a cast iron alcove tub, premium tile surround, and a tempered glass shower screen for tub-shower use.
Service
What Shower-to-Tub Conversion Covers
The shower-to-tub conversion is the reverse of every other path on this sub-hub — instead of removing a tub for a walk-in shower, we are removing a shower stall and putting an alcove tub back in. The reason is almost always one of two things: resale value (a Seattle home with no tub anywhere in it appraises lower and is harder to sell in family neighborhoods) or a growing family (a newborn or toddler genuinely needs a tub for daily bathing). The licensed Washington L&I plumber handles the drain conversion from a 2-inch shower drain to a combo tub-and-overflow assembly, repositions the shower valve from standing height back down to standard tub height, and pulls the Seattle DCI plumbing permit under their license.
Footprint + Drain Position Confirmation
The estimate visit confirms that the alcove tub footprint fits the existing shower stall. The standard alcove tub is 60 inches wide by 30 to 32 inches deep — almost always fits in a 60-inch shower stall (the most common shower size in Seattle remodels). Smaller alcoves (48-inch or 54-inch) may require a non-standard tub or a small framing change to accommodate the standard 60-inch footprint. We confirm the drain position relative to where the tub drain will land (typically requires the plumber to move the drain 2 to 4 inches because shower drains are usually centered in the pan and tub drains are at the foot-end of the tub).
Shower Demo (Pan, Walls, Glass)
Floors protected with rosin paper, adjacent rooms sealed with plastic, glass enclosure removed (tempered glass enclosures get unbolted from the wall clips and pan and carried out in panels; framed enclosures get unscrewed from the framework), shower pan removed (acrylic pre-formed pans break out in pieces, mortar pans get jackhammered if the substrate is solid), shower wall surround removed (acrylic surrounds come off the studs with a pry bar, tile surrounds get demolished with hammer and chisel), backer board down to studs. We document any subfloor damage from a leaking shower pan (more common than you would think on older showers) before any new work starts.
Plumber Drain Relocation + Valve Reposition
The licensed Washington L&I plumber arrives for the drain conversion. The 2-inch shower drain converts back to a combo tub-and-overflow drain — the drain in the pan position becomes a tub waste-and-overflow assembly at the foot end of the tub, with the overflow line ran up to the overflow plate behind the tub. The shower valve in the wall — typically positioned at standing height for shower use (about 48 inches off the floor) — gets repositioned down to standard tub height (about 28 inches off the floor) so a person filling the tub does not have to reach over the tub edge. Tub spout supply gets added below the valve. Plumber visit runs 4 to 6 hours.
Framing Adjust for Tub Alcove
Most shower stalls were originally framed for shower-only use, so framing changes are typically needed to accept the alcove tub — backer board removed if present, studs at the foot end of the tub adjusted to accept the tub flange, and any built-up curb (if the shower had a curb) framed out. If the shower had a tub deck (a horizontal ledge built in) we remove the deck framing and re-frame for a standard alcove. The wall framing gets shimmed or sister-joisted true where needed; the floor framing under the tub gets verified for the additional weight (an acrylic tub plus water plus a person is about 600 to 800 pounds; a steel tub adds 100 pounds; a cast iron tub adds 250 to 400 pounds and may require additional joist support — flagged on the estimate visit).
Alcove Tub Set + Backer Board + Surround Install
Alcove tub set into the framing — leveled (front-to-back and side-to-side) and shimmed if needed, flange screwed or nailed into the studs per the manufacturer's spec. Backer board (cement, foam-core, or moisture-resistant drywall depending on the surround choice) goes on the walls above the tub flange. The surround installs over the backer board — either tile (ceramic subway, porcelain, or stone) with a waterproof membrane behind it, or acrylic surround panels bonded directly to the studs with manufacturer adhesive, or a solid-surface surround (Corian, Wilsonart) cut and bonded in panels.
Tile or Acrylic Wall + Spout/Valve Trim + Optional Glass Shower Screen
Wall surround completed with tile (TCNA-standard grout in field, silicone in change-of-plane corners) or acrylic panels (manufacturer-recommended sealant at corner joints) or solid-surface panels. The licensed plumber returns for final fixture trim — tub spout, shower head (in tub-shower configurations), mixer handle, overflow plate, escutcheons. If the tub will be used as a tub-shower (toddlers in the tub plus adults showering standing), a fixed tempered glass shower screen at the entry end is the modern alternative to a shower curtain — installs after surround is complete.
How the Shower-to-Tub Conversion Works
Six sequential phases from footprint confirmation to fixture trim — the actual working sequence we run on every shower-to-tub conversion, with the licensed plumber on two scheduled visits inside the timeline.
Footprint + Drain Position Confirmation
Estimate visit confirms the alcove tub footprint fits the existing shower stall (60-inch standard tub usually fits a 60-inch shower stall), checks the drain position relative to where the tub drain will land (typically requires 2 to 4 inches of relocation), and confirms the wall framing can accept the tub flange. Tub selection (acrylic, steel, or cast iron) confirmed at contract signing. Tub order lead time is typically 5 to 10 business days.
Shower Demo (Pan, Walls, Glass) (Day 1-2)
Floors protected, adjacent rooms sealed, glass enclosure unbolted and removed in panels, shower pan removed (acrylic broken out in pieces, mortar jackhammered), wall surround removed (acrylic pried off the studs, tile demolished with hammer and chisel), backer board down to studs. Any subfloor damage from a previous leaking pan documented for the plumber's visit. Demo runs 6 to 10 hours total.
Plumber Drain Relocation + Valve Reposition (Day 2-3)
Licensed Washington L&I plumber converts the 2-inch shower drain back to a combo tub-and-overflow assembly at the foot end of the tub, repositions the shower valve from standing height (about 48 inches off the floor) down to standard tub height (about 28 inches off the floor), and adds a tub spout supply line below the valve. Plumber pulls the Seattle DCI plumbing permit under their license. Visit runs 4 to 6 hours.
Framing Adjust for Tub Alcove (Day 3-4)
Studs at the foot end of the tub adjusted to accept the tub flange, any built-up curb from the shower framed out, tub deck framing (if present) removed and re-framed for standard alcove. Wall framing shimmed or sister-joisted true where needed. Floor framing under the tub verified for the additional weight (acrylic tub plus water plus person is 600 to 800 pounds; cast iron adds 250 to 400 pounds and may require joist reinforcement).
Alcove Tub Set + Backer Board + Surround Install (Day 4-5)
Alcove tub set into the framing — leveled front-to-back and side-to-side, shimmed if needed, flange screwed or nailed into the studs per manufacturer spec. Backer board (cement, foam-core, or moisture-resistant drywall) installed above the tub flange. Surround installed — tile with waterproof membrane behind it, acrylic panels bonded with manufacturer adhesive, or solid-surface panels (Corian, Wilsonart) cut and bonded.
Wall Surround Finish + Spout/Valve Trim + Optional Glass Shower Screen (Day 5-7)
Tile surround grouted (sanded grout in field, color-matched silicone in change-of-plane corners per TCNA standard) and sealed after 72 hours, or acrylic surround sealed at corners with manufacturer-recommended silicone, or solid-surface panels sealed at joints. Licensed plumber returns for final fixture trim — tub spout, shower head, mixer handle, overflow plate, escutcheons. Optional tempered glass shower screen installs after surround complete. Final walk-through and warranty paperwork hand-off.
Shower-to-Tub Conversion Pricing
Final pricing depends on the tub selection (acrylic standard, steel mid-tier, cast iron premium), the surround selection (acrylic, ceramic subway, porcelain large-format, solid surface), and whether a tempered glass shower screen is added for tub-shower use. The licensed plumber's portion (drain conversion, valve reposition, fixture trim) is included in every quote. Plumbing permit, where required, also lives inside the project total.
Tell us the bath layout and the reason for the conversion (resale or family) — we will quote the project including the plumber's portion.
Why Seattle Homeowners Book Handis for Shower-to-Tub Conversions
The shower-to-tub conversion is the reverse of every flip-house remodel pattern of the last decade and it surprises people that we do it as often as we do. The market data is unambiguous in Seattle — homes with zero tubs in any bath appraise about 2 to 3 percent lower than the same home with at least one tub, and sit on the market roughly 15 to 20 days longer in family neighborhoods. Real estate agents will tell you the same: a couple with a newborn or a young child walks into a shower-only listing, says "this will not work for us right now", and crosses it off. Adding a tub back to one bath solves the marketability problem; doing the conversion the right way (proper drain assembly, valve repositioned to tub height, surround that does not look like a 1990s afterthought) means the bath actually gets used. Most of our shower-to-tub jobs are in homes where the previous owner removed the only tub during a renovation and the new owner is rebuilding the value the previous owner removed.
Drain converted back properly, not adapted with an off-spec fitting
Converting a 2-inch shower drain back to a combo tub-and-overflow assembly is a proper plumbing change, not a quick adapter swap. The drain has to land at the foot end of the tub (not the center where a shower drain typically sits), the overflow line has to run up to the overflow plate position behind the tub, and the trap underneath has to be the right configuration for a tub (P-trap with proper venting). The licensed Washington L&I plumber handles this end-to-end; we will not adapt with an off-spec fitting or leave the drain in the wrong position because the right answer is a proper conversion.
Valve repositioned to tub height, not left at shower height
A shower valve typically sits 48 inches off the finished floor (chest height for an adult showering standing). A tub-filler valve sits 28 inches off the floor (so a person sitting on the tub edge can reach to turn it on without straining). Leaving the valve at shower height after a shower-to-tub conversion is the visible tell of a half-done job — the person filling the tub has to lean over the tub edge to reach the handle. The licensed plumber repositions the valve to tub height as standard scope on every Handis shower-to-tub.
Tub flange screwed into studs, surround installed over the flange
Alcove tubs have a built-in flange (typically 2 to 3 inches tall on three sides) that screws or nails into the wall studs and lives behind the surround. The surround installs OVER the flange (lipped over it), so any water that gets behind the surround sheets down the flange into the tub instead of into the wall cavity. Getting this overlap right is one of the load-bearing details of an alcove tub install; getting it wrong creates a year-one wall failure behind the tub. Handis installs the flange per the manufacturer's spec and lips the surround over it on every install.
Floor framing verified for the additional weight (especially for cast iron)
An acrylic tub plus water plus a person is about 600 to 800 pounds. A steel tub adds about 100 pounds. A cast iron tub adds 250 to 400 pounds and can push the total live load to over 1,000 pounds in a small area. Most floor framing accepts the weight without modification (2x10 joists 16 inches on-center over a basement span is overbuilt for the load), but some second-story baths in older homes (smaller joists, longer spans) need additional support. We verify the floor structure on the estimate visit and flag the additional support cost upfront if a cast iron tub is in the picture.
Licensed Washington L&I plumber on the drain + insured, background-checked, 30-day workmanship + 2-year tile/pan warranty
The drain conversion and valve reposition are in-wall plumbing work requiring a Washington L&I licensed plumbing contractor per RCW 18.106. We subcontract the plumbing portion to a licensed plumber on two scheduled visits (drain rough-in day 2, final trim day 6 or 7). They pull the Seattle DCI plumbing permit under their license. Every Handis carpenter carries liability insurance and clears background screening. 30-day workmanship guarantee on finishes; 2-year warranty on tile or acrylic surround. The licensed plumber warrants their portion separately under their own license terms. All warranties in writing at project close.
Estimate
Tell us the existing shower stall size and footprint, the reason for the conversion (resale, family use, both), the tub preference (acrylic standard, steel mid-tier, cast iron premium), the surround preference (acrylic, ceramic subway, porcelain large-format, solid surface), and whether a tempered glass shower screen is in scope for tub-shower use. We send back a clear estimate and a project timeline.
Customer Reviews
Shower-to-tub conversion reviews from real Seattle-area Handis customers.
We bought a 1920s craftsman in Wallingford that had been re-done by flippers in 2014 — primary bath had been converted to shower-only, no tub anywhere in the house. With a baby coming, we needed a tub back. Handis put a standard 60-inch alcove tub back in the primary, converted the 2-inch shower drain to a tub-and-overflow combo (the licensed plumber's job), tile-surrounded it in subway tile to match the era, and added a tempered glass shower screen. Five working days. Resale value back up, baby has a tub.
Investment property in Ballard we picked up at a discount because the only bath was shower-only and it had been sitting on the market for 60 days. Handis did the conversion in seven working days — acrylic alcove tub, porcelain large-format tile surround, fixed glass shower screen at the entry. We re-listed 10 days later and had an offer in 12. Came in at $7,800 with the porcelain upgrade. The conversion cost less than the price reduction we would have had to make.
We had been showering only in the primary bath for 8 years, then realized our son starting preschool needed a tub for bathing toys and the occasional ear infection. The plumber did the drain conversion and moved the valve down from shower height to tub height (huge — leaning over the edge to turn on a shower valve to fill a tub is awful). Acrylic tub, basic surround. Came in at $5,200. Five days.
Top-end build for our primary bath remodel — cast iron alcove tub (we love the heft and the heat retention), porcelain large-format tile surround in a herringbone pattern, one tile-in niche above the tub, frameless tempered glass shower screen at the entry. Handis verified the second-story floor structure was good for the cast iron weight (they sister-joisted one joist from below the basement ceiling as a precaution). Seven working days. Came in right at $10,000.
1962 split-level in Bellevue where the previous owner had converted the only tub to a shower in 2005. We had a baby on the way and needed a tub fast. Handis estimated the conversion on a Tuesday, ordered the tub Wednesday, started demo the following Monday, and we had a working tub by Friday of that same week. Acrylic tub, ceramic subway tile, basic glass screen. Six working days from demo to finish. Came in at $6,400.
Frequently Asked Questions
Common questions about shower-to-tub conversion — pricing, timeline, plumber handoff, why people do it, and what to expect.