Bathtub Replacement (Like-for-Like)
Handis bathtub replacement is the same-footprint swap — old tub out, new tub in the same rough opening — with Handis handling demolition, disposal, sub-floor inspection, tub setting, and finished caulk, and a licensed Washington L&I plumber handling the in-wall supply, the overflow and waste drain, and any valve work — from $2,500 plus the plumber's separate invoice. A porcelain-on-steel tub that has chipped on the apron. A cast-iron tub that is structurally fine but the surface is past refinishing. A jetted tub that has been off for years and the homeowner wants a flat soaking tub. Same-footprint replacement keeps the surround tile intact wherever possible and avoids a full bathroom remodel. The job runs 1 to 2 days end-to-end — demo and prep day one, set and finish day two, with the plumber's rough-in scheduled between.
Service
What Does a Like-for-Like Bathtub Replacement Include?
A like-for-like bathtub replacement is the residential wet-zone update that swaps an existing tub for a new one in the same rough opening — covering demolition of the existing tub, removal and disposal at a licensed transfer station, sub-floor inspection and minor framing repair, tub setting on a mortar bed where required, shim-and-level to the manufacturer's spec, and finished perimeter caulk in 100 percent silicone. The in-wall plumbing — supply lines, overflow drain assembly, waste assembly, and any valve work — routes to a licensed Washington L&I plumber as a coordinated subcontract on the plumber's separate invoice. Handis covers the carpentry, demo, and setting scope from $2,500 on an acrylic or fiberglass like-for-like swap; cast-iron demo runs higher because the demo is heavier and slower.
Demolition and Removal of the Existing Tub
Existing tub gets cut out at the apron and the wet-zone tile flange, lifted out of the opening, and removed from the site. Acrylic and fiberglass tubs cut quickly with a reciprocating saw and remove single-handed. Porcelain-on-steel tubs require sectioning before removal because the steel cannot be lifted intact through most bathroom doorways (steel tubs weigh 60 to 100 pounds; cast iron weighs 200 to 400 pounds and almost always requires breaking up in place with a sledgehammer and a tarp). Jetted tubs require the pump and the in-line plumbing disconnect first; refrigerant evac is not needed on a standard hydromassage tub.
Disposal at a Licensed Transfer Station
Old tubs go to a licensed transfer station for disposal. Steel and cast iron go to a metal recycler (often paid back to offset the disposal cost). Acrylic and fiberglass go to C&D disposal at a transfer station. You see the disposal receipts with the invoice. We never leave the old tub in the driveway for the homeowner to figure out.
Sub-Floor Inspection and Minor Framing Repair
With the old tub out, the rough opening exposes the sub-floor and the joist framing. Water damage from a leaking tub or a failed grout joint shows up here — soft sub-floor, blackened joist tops, swollen plywood. Minor framing repair (joist sister where one joist has rotted on the top edge, sub-floor patch on small areas under 4 square feet) is included in the Handis scope. Larger structural damage routes to a licensed contractor on a permitted scope.
Tub Setting on Mortar Bed (Where Required)
Most acrylic and fiberglass tubs ship with manufacturer instructions to set on a mortar bed under the tub bottom — the mortar supports the tub bottom under load and prevents flex (which causes the gel-coat to crack and the tub to creak under standing weight). We mix mortar to the manufacturer's spec, set the tub into the mortar while still wet, level it across both axes with shims at the apron and the back wall, and let the mortar cure 24 hours before water exposure. Porcelain-on-steel tubs may not require mortar (manufacturer-dependent); cast iron tubs do not require mortar (the cast iron is rigid enough to carry the load).
Plumber Handoff for In-Wall Supply, Drain, and Valve Work
The in-wall supply lines (hot and cold), the overflow drain assembly (the chrome plate at the top of the apron), the waste assembly (the linkage and the trip lever), and any valve work routes to a licensed Washington L&I plumber as a coordinated subcontract. The plumber rough-ins the supply and drain to the new tub's inlet and outlet locations (same as the old tub on a like-for-like swap, but the connections still need to be made), pressure-tests the supply, runs the waste connection, and verifies no leaks. The plumber's invoice is separate from the Handis invoice — you see both quotes before any work starts. Typical plumber scope on a like-for-like swap runs $400 to $900 depending on access and the condition of the existing rough-in.
Finished Perimeter Caulk in 100% Silicone
Once the tub is set, leveled, mortar cured, and the plumber's hookup is done and pressure-tested, we caulk the perimeter — tub-to-tile horizontal seam, tub-to-wall front and back at the apron, and any vertical wall corner that meets the tub flange — in 100 percent mildew-resistant silicone. The caulk skins 30 to 60 minutes and reaches full cure at 48 hours; the tub can take the first low-flow water test at 90 minutes and standing-water shower or bath use at 48 hours.
How a Like-for-Like Bathtub Replacement Works
Seven sequential steps across a 1 to 2 day project — demo, plumber rough-out, sub-floor inspection, tub set, plumber rough-in, finish caulk, water test. The actual sequence we follow on every like-for-like swap.
Plumber Disconnects the Supply and Drain
Licensed Washington L&I plumber disconnects the in-wall supply lines (hot and cold), caps them, and disconnects the waste and overflow assembly from the old tub. This is the plumber's scope on day one. Handis cannot disconnect supply or drain plumbing legally on a tub-out project.
Handis Demos and Removes the Old Tub
Old tub cut at the apron and tile flange. Acrylic and fiberglass cut and remove single-handed; porcelain-on-steel requires sectioning; cast iron usually requires breaking up in place with a sledgehammer and tarp. Removal to the truck and disposal at a licensed transfer station.
Inspect Sub-Floor and Frame
Rough opening inspected for water damage to the sub-floor and joist framing. Soft sub-floor, blackened joist tops, swollen plywood get surfaced. Minor framing repair (joist sister, sub-floor patch under 4 sq ft) handled by Handis; larger structural damage routes to a licensed contractor.
Set the New Tub on Mortar Bed
Mortar mixed to the manufacturer's spec, set under the new tub bottom while still wet (acrylic and fiberglass requirement; cast iron usually does not need mortar). Tub leveled across both axes with shims at the apron and the back wall. Mortar cures 24 hours.
Plumber Reconnects Supply, Drain, and Overflow
Plumber returns on day two to connect supply lines to the new tub's inlet, install the new waste assembly and trip lever, install the new overflow drain plate, pressure-test the supply, and verify the waste runs clean with no leaks. This is the plumber's day-two scope on a separate visit, coordinated with Handis.
Caulk the Perimeter in 100% Silicone
Once the tub is set and the plumber's hookup is verified, we caulk the perimeter — tub-to-tile horizontal seam, tub-to-wall front and back at the apron, vertical wall corners that meet the tub flange — in 100 percent mildew-resistant silicone. Dry-tool every bead with a Cramer profile tool.
Water Test at 90 Minutes, Full Cure at 48 Hours
At 90 minutes after the last silicone bead, handheld showerhead at low flow against every joint. Plumber's connections pressure-checked one final time. Standing-water bath or shower use waits the full 48 hours for silicone cure. Printed cure-window note left on the bathroom door.
Bathtub Replacement Pricing
Final pricing depends on the old tub material (cast iron demo is heavier and slower), the new tub material, access (second-story tubs cost more for the haul), sub-floor or framing repair needed, and the licensed plumber's separate scope. The plumber invoice is shown alongside the Handis quote. Request a free estimate for an accurate quote.
Tell us the existing tub material and the new tub you want — we will coordinate the plumber scope and quote both pieces separately.
Honest plumber handoff — Washington L&I licensed, coordinated by Handis
The in-wall supply lines, the overflow drain assembly, the waste assembly, and any valve work routes to a licensed Washington L&I plumber as a coordinated subcontract. The plumber owns the licensed-trade scope, their permit when applicable, their pressure test, and their invoice. Handis owns the carpentry — demo, sub-floor, framing, tub set, perimeter caulk — and coordinates the plumber scheduling so day one has the disconnect and day two has the reconnect on the same project clock. You see both quotes before any work starts.
Sub-floor inspection — exposed and inspected before the new tub goes in
The rough opening with the old tub out exposes the sub-floor and joist framing. We inspect every visible surface for water damage from the old tub. Soft sub-floor, blackened joist tops, swollen plywood get called out. Minor repair (sub-floor patch under 4 sq ft, joist sister on a single rotted top edge) is included in Handis scope. Larger structural damage routes to a licensed contractor — we will not cover damage we found with a new tub.
Mortar bed under the new tub — to the manufacturer's spec
Most acrylic and fiberglass tubs ship with manufacturer instructions to set on a mortar bed under the tub bottom. The mortar supports the bottom under standing-water load and prevents flex — which is what causes the gel-coat to crack and the tub to creak under occupant weight. We mix mortar to the spec, set the tub into the mortar while still wet, and level across both axes before the mortar cures. Tubs that ship without mortar requirements (some cast-iron specs) skip this step.
Surround tile preserved wherever possible
The point of like-for-like is preserving the existing surround tile. Demo is done with the tile in mind — we cut at the tub apron and the tile flange, not into the tile field. Tile damage at the surround edges from the demo gets routed to a tile setter before the final caulk (rarely needed on careful demo, but the path is there). The bathroom comes out of the project with the same tile surround it went in with.
Disposal at a licensed transfer station, receipts with the invoice
Old tubs go to a licensed transfer station. Steel and cast iron go to a metal recycler (often paid back to offset disposal). Acrylic and fiberglass go to C&D disposal. We never leave the old tub in the driveway. You see the disposal receipts with the invoice.
30-day workmanship guarantee on Handis scope; plumber covers their scope
30-day workmanship guarantee on the Handis scope — if the new tub creaks from inadequate mortar bedding, the perimeter caulk pulls within 30 days, or our sub-floor patch settles, we come back and fix it at no extra charge. The plumber's scope (in-wall supply, drain, overflow, valve) is covered by the plumber's separate workmanship guarantee, which we share alongside the plumber's quote before booking. Every Handis tech carries liability insurance and has cleared a background screening. The plumber we sub to is fully licensed, bonded, and insured under Washington L&I.
Estimate
Tell us the existing tub material (acrylic, fiberglass, porcelain-on-steel, cast iron, jetted), the new tub you want (material, color, brand if you know it), the approximate age of the bathroom and the rough plumbing, and any access constraints (second-story tub, narrow stairwell, finished hallway between the bathroom and the door). We coordinate the licensed-plumber visit and send you both quotes — Handis carpentry + plumber scope — together.
Customer Reviews
Like-for-like bathtub replacement reviews from real Handis customers.
30-year-old porcelain-on-steel tub in our Mercer Island guest bath — chipped at the apron, scratched everywhere. Handis sectioned it out, found a small wet patch in the sub-floor, patched that, set a new acrylic tub on mortar to spec. Their plumber did the supply and waste hookup on day two. Two separate invoices like they said on the booking call. Bath was back in service on day three.
Cast iron in our 1928 Wallingford — magnificent old tub but the surface had gone past refinishing. Handis broke it up in place with the sledgehammer and tarp (loud but contained), removed in pieces, set a new cast iron in the same footprint. They sourced the new tub through their plumber. Project ran two and a half days end-to-end. New tub looks like it belongs in the bathroom.
Jetted tub from the 1990s in our master bath — never used the jets, the pump had failed years ago. Wanted a flat soaking tub. Handis disconnected the jet plumbing, electrician capped the dedicated circuit, plumber did the supply and drain hookup, Handis set the new flat tub. Bathroom finally feels modern. Three different trades coordinated by Handis, one quote sheet with each scope itemized.
Sub-floor under our old steel tub was rotted on the right side — a slow leak we never knew about. Handis spotted it the moment they got the tub out. Patched the sub-floor (about 3 sq ft, under their included scope), sistered one joist along the top edge, and set the new tub on mortar. They were straight with us on the scope expansion before doing the work. No surprises on the invoice.
Hall bath tub replacement coordinated with a frameless shower door install in the master bath — Handis ran both as a 3-day package. The plumber came for the tub side. The frameless glass arrived on day three. End of week the bathrooms were both done. Tighter coordination than we have ever had with separate trades.
Frequently Asked Questions
Common questions about like-for-like bathtub replacement and the plumber handoff.