Bathtub Replacement (Like-for-Like)

Handis bathtub replacement is the same-footprint swap — old tub out, new tub in the same rough opening — with Handis handling demolition, disposal, sub-floor inspection, tub setting, and finished caulk, and a licensed Washington L&I plumber handling the in-wall supply, the overflow and waste drain, and any valve work — from $2,500 plus the plumber's separate invoice. A porcelain-on-steel tub that has chipped on the apron. A cast-iron tub that is structurally fine but the surface is past refinishing. A jetted tub that has been off for years and the homeowner wants a flat soaking tub. Same-footprint replacement keeps the surround tile intact wherever possible and avoids a full bathroom remodel. The job runs 1 to 2 days end-to-end — demo and prep day one, set and finish day two, with the plumber's rough-in scheduled between.

Bathtub replacement image — new white acrylic alcove tub being set into the same footprint as the old tub it replaced, joist framing visible at the apron, mortar-bed bag and shims staged on a drop cloth, tile surround behind still intact.

Service

What Does a Like-for-Like Bathtub Replacement Include?

A like-for-like bathtub replacement is the residential wet-zone update that swaps an existing tub for a new one in the same rough opening — covering demolition of the existing tub, removal and disposal at a licensed transfer station, sub-floor inspection and minor framing repair, tub setting on a mortar bed where required, shim-and-level to the manufacturer's spec, and finished perimeter caulk in 100 percent silicone. The in-wall plumbing — supply lines, overflow drain assembly, waste assembly, and any valve work — routes to a licensed Washington L&I plumber as a coordinated subcontract on the plumber's separate invoice. Handis covers the carpentry, demo, and setting scope from $2,500 on an acrylic or fiberglass like-for-like swap; cast-iron demo runs higher because the demo is heavier and slower.

Demolition and Removal of the Existing Tub

Existing tub gets cut out at the apron and the wet-zone tile flange, lifted out of the opening, and removed from the site. Acrylic and fiberglass tubs cut quickly with a reciprocating saw and remove single-handed. Porcelain-on-steel tubs require sectioning before removal because the steel cannot be lifted intact through most bathroom doorways (steel tubs weigh 60 to 100 pounds; cast iron weighs 200 to 400 pounds and almost always requires breaking up in place with a sledgehammer and a tarp). Jetted tubs require the pump and the in-line plumbing disconnect first; refrigerant evac is not needed on a standard hydromassage tub.

Disposal at a Licensed Transfer Station

Old tubs go to a licensed transfer station for disposal. Steel and cast iron go to a metal recycler (often paid back to offset the disposal cost). Acrylic and fiberglass go to C&D disposal at a transfer station. You see the disposal receipts with the invoice. We never leave the old tub in the driveway for the homeowner to figure out.

Sub-Floor Inspection and Minor Framing Repair

With the old tub out, the rough opening exposes the sub-floor and the joist framing. Water damage from a leaking tub or a failed grout joint shows up here — soft sub-floor, blackened joist tops, swollen plywood. Minor framing repair (joist sister where one joist has rotted on the top edge, sub-floor patch on small areas under 4 square feet) is included in the Handis scope. Larger structural damage routes to a licensed contractor on a permitted scope.

Tub Setting on Mortar Bed (Where Required)

Most acrylic and fiberglass tubs ship with manufacturer instructions to set on a mortar bed under the tub bottom — the mortar supports the tub bottom under load and prevents flex (which causes the gel-coat to crack and the tub to creak under standing weight). We mix mortar to the manufacturer's spec, set the tub into the mortar while still wet, level it across both axes with shims at the apron and the back wall, and let the mortar cure 24 hours before water exposure. Porcelain-on-steel tubs may not require mortar (manufacturer-dependent); cast iron tubs do not require mortar (the cast iron is rigid enough to carry the load).

Plumber Handoff for In-Wall Supply, Drain, and Valve Work

The in-wall supply lines (hot and cold), the overflow drain assembly (the chrome plate at the top of the apron), the waste assembly (the linkage and the trip lever), and any valve work routes to a licensed Washington L&I plumber as a coordinated subcontract. The plumber rough-ins the supply and drain to the new tub's inlet and outlet locations (same as the old tub on a like-for-like swap, but the connections still need to be made), pressure-tests the supply, runs the waste connection, and verifies no leaks. The plumber's invoice is separate from the Handis invoice — you see both quotes before any work starts. Typical plumber scope on a like-for-like swap runs $400 to $900 depending on access and the condition of the existing rough-in.

Finished Perimeter Caulk in 100% Silicone

Once the tub is set, leveled, mortar cured, and the plumber's hookup is done and pressure-tested, we caulk the perimeter — tub-to-tile horizontal seam, tub-to-wall front and back at the apron, and any vertical wall corner that meets the tub flange — in 100 percent mildew-resistant silicone. The caulk skins 30 to 60 minutes and reaches full cure at 48 hours; the tub can take the first low-flow water test at 90 minutes and standing-water shower or bath use at 48 hours.

Photo of a like-for-like bathtub replacement in progress — old porcelain-on-steel tub sectioned and removed, sub-floor and joist framing exposed, new white acrylic tub staged in the room ready to be set, mortar bag and shims on a drop cloth, plumber's tools beside the supply lines.
Process

How a Like-for-Like Bathtub Replacement Works

Seven sequential steps across a 1 to 2 day project — demo, plumber rough-out, sub-floor inspection, tub set, plumber rough-in, finish caulk, water test. The actual sequence we follow on every like-for-like swap.

Pricing

Bathtub Replacement Pricing

Final pricing depends on the old tub material (cast iron demo is heavier and slower), the new tub material, access (second-story tubs cost more for the haul), sub-floor or framing repair needed, and the licensed plumber's separate scope. The plumber invoice is shown alongside the Handis quote. Request a free estimate for an accurate quote.

Tell us the existing tub material and the new tub you want — we will coordinate the plumber scope and quote both pieces separately.

Call us
Why Handis for Like-for-Like Bathtub Replacement
Trust

Why Handis for Like-for-Like Bathtub Replacement

Like-for-like tub replacement is the bathroom update that delivers the most visible change for the least disruption — the tile surround stays, the rough plumbing stays in roughly the same location, the bathroom is offline for 2 days instead of 4 weeks. The honest scope split with the licensed plumber is the part most homeowners ask about first. Handis does demo, sub-floor work, and tub setting (the carpentry side). The plumber does anything that hooks to a supply or waste line (the licensed-trade side). Two invoices, one project. We coordinate the scheduling so the plumber lands on day one for the disconnect and day two for the reconnect, and the homeowner does not have to make two separate calls.

Honest plumber handoff — Washington L&I licensed, coordinated by Handis

The in-wall supply lines, the overflow drain assembly, the waste assembly, and any valve work routes to a licensed Washington L&I plumber as a coordinated subcontract. The plumber owns the licensed-trade scope, their permit when applicable, their pressure test, and their invoice. Handis owns the carpentry — demo, sub-floor, framing, tub set, perimeter caulk — and coordinates the plumber scheduling so day one has the disconnect and day two has the reconnect on the same project clock. You see both quotes before any work starts.

Sub-floor inspection — exposed and inspected before the new tub goes in

The rough opening with the old tub out exposes the sub-floor and joist framing. We inspect every visible surface for water damage from the old tub. Soft sub-floor, blackened joist tops, swollen plywood get called out. Minor repair (sub-floor patch under 4 sq ft, joist sister on a single rotted top edge) is included in Handis scope. Larger structural damage routes to a licensed contractor — we will not cover damage we found with a new tub.

Mortar bed under the new tub — to the manufacturer's spec

Most acrylic and fiberglass tubs ship with manufacturer instructions to set on a mortar bed under the tub bottom. The mortar supports the bottom under standing-water load and prevents flex — which is what causes the gel-coat to crack and the tub to creak under occupant weight. We mix mortar to the spec, set the tub into the mortar while still wet, and level across both axes before the mortar cures. Tubs that ship without mortar requirements (some cast-iron specs) skip this step.

Surround tile preserved wherever possible

The point of like-for-like is preserving the existing surround tile. Demo is done with the tile in mind — we cut at the tub apron and the tile flange, not into the tile field. Tile damage at the surround edges from the demo gets routed to a tile setter before the final caulk (rarely needed on careful demo, but the path is there). The bathroom comes out of the project with the same tile surround it went in with.

Disposal at a licensed transfer station, receipts with the invoice

Old tubs go to a licensed transfer station. Steel and cast iron go to a metal recycler (often paid back to offset disposal). Acrylic and fiberglass go to C&D disposal. We never leave the old tub in the driveway. You see the disposal receipts with the invoice.

30-day workmanship guarantee on Handis scope; plumber covers their scope

30-day workmanship guarantee on the Handis scope — if the new tub creaks from inadequate mortar bedding, the perimeter caulk pulls within 30 days, or our sub-floor patch settles, we come back and fix it at no extra charge. The plumber's scope (in-wall supply, drain, overflow, valve) is covered by the plumber's separate workmanship guarantee, which we share alongside the plumber's quote before booking. Every Handis tech carries liability insurance and has cleared a background screening. The plumber we sub to is fully licensed, bonded, and insured under Washington L&I.

Estimate

Tell us the existing tub material (acrylic, fiberglass, porcelain-on-steel, cast iron, jetted), the new tub you want (material, color, brand if you know it), the approximate age of the bathroom and the rough plumbing, and any access constraints (second-story tub, narrow stairwell, finished hallway between the bathroom and the door). We coordinate the licensed-plumber visit and send you both quotes — Handis carpentry + plumber scope — together.

Service cost estimate illustration
Reviews

Customer Reviews

Like-for-like bathtub replacement reviews from real Handis customers.

FAQ

Frequently Asked Questions

Common questions about like-for-like bathtub replacement and the plumber handoff.

How much does a like-for-like bathtub replacement cost?
An acrylic or fiberglass like-for-like swap starts at $2,500 on the Handis carpentry scope. A porcelain-on-steel swap is $2,900 (steel demo requires sectioning before removal). A cast-iron tub demo with acrylic replacement starts at $4,500. Cast iron in plus cast iron out is $5,500. A jetted-tub removal with flat-tub replacement is $3,500. Sub-floor patch under 4 sq ft is $400 add-on; a single joist sister is $600 add-on. The licensed plumber's separate scope (in-wall supply, drain, overflow, valve work) typically runs $400 to $900 depending on access and the condition of the existing rough-in. You get the Handis quote and the plumber quote together before any work starts.
Why does the plumber have to do part of the work?
Washington state requires a licensed Washington L&I plumber for any work on supply or waste plumbing inside a wall, including the in-wall supply lines to a tub, the overflow drain assembly, the waste assembly, and any valve work. This is a state licensing requirement, not a Handis policy. The split is honest scope: Handis does the carpentry side (demo, sub-floor, framing, tub setting, perimeter caulk) and a licensed plumber does the licensed-trade side (supply, drain, overflow, valve). We coordinate the scheduling so the plumber lands on day one for the disconnect and day two for the reconnect; the homeowner sees both quotes upfront and gets both invoices.
How long is the bathroom out of service?
1 to 2 days for the work, plus 48 hours for the perimeter silicone to cure before bath or shower use. A standard acrylic or fiberglass like-for-like swap is plumber-disconnect + Handis demo + sub-floor inspect on day one, mortar set and tub level (mortar cures overnight 24 hours), plumber reconnect + Handis finish caulk on day two. Bath use starts about 48 hours after the final caulk is laid. Cast-iron and jetted-tub projects run 2 to 3 days end-to-end because the demo is heavier and the coordination with the plumber takes longer.
Can I keep the existing surround tile?
Yes — that is the point of the like-for-like service. The demo is done with the tile preserved in mind — we cut at the tub apron and the tile flange, not into the tile field. Tile damage at the surround edges (rare on careful demo) gets routed to a tile setter before the final caulk lands. The bathroom comes out of the project with the same tile surround it went in with. The new tub flange seats against the existing tile lip and the perimeter caulk seals the joint.
What if there is water damage under the old tub?
We tell you on arrival, before any new tub goes in. Soft sub-floor, blackened joist tops, swollen plywood — any of these means water has been migrating under the old tub for years. Minor repair (sub-floor patch under 4 sq ft for $400, single joist sister on a rotted top edge for $600) is in Handis scope and we do it the same day. Larger structural damage (multiple rotted joists, sub-floor failure over a wider area, a leak that has reached a load-bearing element) routes to a licensed contractor on a permitted scope. We will not cover a known water-damage problem with a new tub.
Do you handle cast-iron tubs?
Yes — both demo and new install. Cast iron weighs 200 to 400 pounds and almost always requires breaking up in place with a sledgehammer and a tarp because the intact tub cannot fit through most bathroom doorways. The demo is noisy but contained (we lay tarps over the sub-floor and tile to catch the chips and the dust). New cast iron installation requires a setting crane or a four-person lift to get the new tub into position — we coordinate the lift on the day of the set. Cast-iron pricing is $4,500 for cast iron out + acrylic in, $5,500 for cast iron out + cast iron in.
Can you handle a jetted tub removal?
Yes — we disconnect the jet plumbing and the pump first, route the dedicated electrical circuit cap to an electrician (the circuit must be capped at the panel, not just disconnected at the tub), and replace the jetted tub with a flat soaking tub or another jetted tub. The plumber handles the supply and drain hookup on the new tub as on any like-for-like swap. Jetted-tub removal + flat-tub replacement starts at $3,500. Most homeowners we work with want to retire the jets because the pumps are decades old and the gel-coat surface in jetted tubs is harder to keep clean.
What about a different-footprint tub — can you do that?
That is a remodel scope, not a like-for-like swap. A different footprint changes the rough plumbing locations (supply and drain need to be re-routed), the surround tile has to be cut and re-tiled to the new tub dimensions, and the project usually triggers a Seattle SDCI permit. We route different-footprint projects to a licensed remodeling contractor; the like-for-like service is specifically for the same-footprint swap that preserves the rough plumbing locations and the tile surround. We can recommend a contractor if helpful.
Do you do the disposal?
Yes — old tubs go to a licensed transfer station for disposal. Steel and cast iron go to a metal recycler (often paid back to offset the disposal cost). Acrylic and fiberglass go to C&D disposal at a licensed transfer station. We never leave the old tub in the driveway for the homeowner to figure out. You see the disposal receipts with the invoice.
How do I confirm the plumber is licensed?
Every plumber we sub to is fully licensed, bonded, and insured under Washington L&I. We share the plumber's name, license number, and bond information alongside the plumber quote before booking. You can verify the license directly through the Washington L&I online lookup (search by name or license number on the L&I website). We will not route to an unlicensed plumber on any in-wall scope.
Is the work guaranteed?
Yes — 30-day workmanship guarantee on the Handis scope. If the new tub creaks from inadequate mortar bedding, the perimeter caulk pulls within 30 days, or our sub-floor patch settles, we come back and fix it at no extra charge. The plumber's scope (in-wall supply, drain, overflow, valve) is covered by the plumber's separate workmanship guarantee, which we share alongside the plumber's quote before booking. The guarantee does not cover damage from a different-trade root cause (a roof leak above the bathroom dampening the new sub-floor, for example) or aggressive cleaning chemicals that damage the new tub surface. Every Handis tech carries liability insurance and has cleared a background screening.

Learn More and Reach Out

For each of our clients

Contact information
Our Business Hours
Monday:09:00 - 21:00
Tuesday:09:00 - 21:00
Wednesday:09:00 - 21:00
Thursday:09:00 - 21:00
Friday:09:00 - 21:00
Saturday:09:00 - 21:00
Sunday:Closed

Write Us!

We will respond to your request as soon as possible