Cabinet Hardware Upgrade
Handis cabinet hardware upgrade is the finish-hardware service that closes a kitchen renovation in one visit — whole-kitchen pull and knob install on existing or fresh-drilled doors and drawer fronts, with jig-drilled templates for clean factory-grade alignment — from $400 for a whole-kitchen swap on existing holes to $1,200 for a full kitchen with pitch conversion. A box of brushed-brass cabinet pulls bought six months ago and still sitting on the counter, every door drilled at a 3-inch pitch from the factory and the pulls measured 96 mm on center. A sixteenth-inch of drift compounds across forty doors and reads as obviously sloppy by the time the eye gets to door ten. A whole-kitchen of pulls drilled freehand off a tape measure is the most-common DIY-error mode in a kitchen update. Handis runs a Kreg or Rockler drill jig clamped to every door indexed off the same reference edge, marks twice and drills with a backer block behind the face, fills old factory holes with color-matched filler when pitch needs to change, and ends up with a kitchen on a single horizontal sight-line.
Service
How a Cabinet Hardware Upgrade Works
Six sequential steps from the pitch check through the quarter-turn finish — the actual jig-drilled sequence we follow on every whole-kitchen set.
Pitch Check and Spec Verification on the Booking Call
Confirm the new pull pitch (3 inch, 96, 128, 160, 192, or 224 mm on center), check existing factory holes for match, decide between per-piece swap on existing holes or fresh jig-drilled positions. Photo of an existing hole with a tape measure is enough to lock the scope.
Old Hardware Removal, Easy-Out on Stripped Screws
Strip old knobs and pulls. Extract any stripped screws with an easy-out kit. Right-angle drivers used in awkward back-of-cabinet positions. Old hardware bagged for the homeowner if requested.
Old-Hole Fill, Color-Match, Sand Flush (Pitch Conversion)
When the new pitch differs, fill old holes with color-matched Minwax Wood Filler on stained wood or paintable spackle on painted cabinets. Let set, sand flush with 220 grit, re-stain or touch-up paint as needed. Filled holes invisible on stained wood, well hidden under paint.
Jig Setup, Single Reference Line Across the Kitchen
Clamp the Kreg or Rockler drill jig to every door and drawer front, indexed off the same edge across the whole kitchen — typically the inside-of-frame edge for standard overlay doors. Pulls end up on a single horizontal sight-line you can read down the kitchen.
Drill with Backer Block Behind Every Door
Scrap wood clamped behind the back face of the door before the bit punches through, so the drill exits into the scrap rather than chipping the inside veneer or paint. The detail no one sees and the one that separates a clean install from a sloppy one.
Mount with Quarter-Turn Finish, Final Sight-Line Check
Set every pull and knob, hand-tighten the screwdriver until the pull seats, then a quarter-turn to snug — never the full-power impact-driver finish. Final sight-line check down the kitchen before walkthrough, any pull that reads off adjusted, then the one-year project warranty starts.
Cabinet Hardware Upgrade Pricing
Final pricing depends on piece count, whether existing holes need to be filled and re-drilled at a different pitch, and whether old hardware removal requires extra time on stuck or stripped screws. Multi-area visits (kitchen plus a bath vanity, for example) are cheaper per piece than booking each one separately. Request a free estimate for an accurate quote.
Send the cabinet count, the pull pitch, and a photo of the existing hole — we will quote the visit.
Estimate
Tell us the cabinet count (doors plus drawer fronts), the new pull pitch (in inches or millimeters), and whether the existing factory holes match. Send a photo of an existing hole with a tape measure if you are not sure. We will quote the visit.
Customer Reviews
Cabinet hardware upgrade reviews from real Handis customers.
Whole-kitchen swap — sixty cabinet doors, twenty drawers, all brushed brass at 96 mm on center. The cabinets were drilled at 3 inch from the factory. He filled every old hole, color-matched the stain on our walnut cabinets, jig-drilled new positions. The pulls ended up on a line you can sight down. Three hours, looks like the kitchen was built for them.
Painted-white kitchen, swapped twenty-two knobs for matte-black pulls. Pitch matched, no drilling needed, but I had tried it myself on the first three and one was clearly off-center. The tech took them all back off, ran the jig on the three I had done and the rest of the kitchen, and the line is perfect now. Hour and a half total.
Twenty-eight cabinet pulls in the kitchen, drilled on a backer block — checked the inside of two doors after he left and the back face is as clean as the front. Best detail nobody talks about. Single horizontal sight-line down the run.
1996 oak kitchen, the original brass pulls were tarnished black and the screws had stripped on five of them. The tech extracted the stripped screws with an easy-out, swapped all forty pulls for brushed nickel, and re-tightened the cabinet hinges while he was at it. Twenty-year-old kitchen suddenly looks like a 2026 kitchen.
56-piece full kitchen at 128 mm on center, converted from 3-inch factory holes. Took the tech most of a day with the filler dry-time on the stained-cherry doors, but the result is dead-on perfect. The old factory holes are completely invisible after the stain touch-up. Looks factory-original.
Frequently Asked Questions
Common questions about Handis cabinet hardware upgrade.