Railings

The deck guard that wobbles when the kids lean against it. The porch baluster that came loose three winters ago and the homeowner has been meaning to fix. The cedar top rail that finally rotted through at the post and a hand went through it. The cable run that was tight on install day in 2019 and now sags low enough to fail the 4-inch sphere rule. The stair handrail that was glued to the wall and pulled out the first time a guest grabbed it on the way down. Railings is the trade for every guard, baluster, and handrail outside (and the interior stair rails where a fall is a real risk) — five material systems with very different price floors, very different maintenance profiles, and one shared code reference. Every system Handis builds meets IRC R312 — 36-inch minimum guard height (42 inches in some Seattle-area jurisdictions where the deck sits more than 30 inches above grade), the 200-pound concentrated load capacity at the top rail, and the 4-inch sphere rule for infill. Pure carpentry — no licensed sub is required for the railing itself. From $2,500 for a small pressure-treated wood replacement to $16,000 for a frameless tempered laminated glass run on a view deck.

Railings hub image — wide shot of a recently finished Seattle deck guard in early-evening light, a stainless cable infill stretched between black powder-coated steel posts with a clear cedar top rail, the cables tensioned tight enough that a 4-inch sphere is visibly blocked, and a tape measure left on the corner post showing the 36-inch guard height from the decking.

Systems

What Railings Covers

Railings is the carpentry trade for every guard, baluster, top rail, and handrail on a residential deck, porch, balcony, or stair. Five material systems Handis installs — wood (pressure-treated, cedar, mahogany), cable (316 stainless for the salt air and rain), glass (tempered laminated per IBC 2407), aluminum (powder-coated systems from AFCO, Westbury, Trex Signature), and composite (TimberTech Impression Rail, Trex Transcend, Fiberon). Each system gets its own page with the pricing, the install steps, and the maintenance schedule. Every install meets IRC R312 — 36-inch minimum guard height (42 inches where local amendments apply for decks more than 30 inches above grade), the 200-pound concentrated load at the top rail, and the 4-inch sphere rule for the infill openings. Handis self-performs the full scope; no licensed plumbing or electrical sub is required for pure railing carpentry.

Wood Railing

Pressure-treated, cedar, Douglas fir, or mahogany. Turned 2x2 balusters or square pickets, a 2x4 or 2x6 top rail, 4x4 or 6x6 posts. The lowest-cost material and the highest maintenance — pressure-treated needs a sealer every two to three years, cedar silvers if left untreated (a deliberate choice for some) or needs an annual oil-based stain to keep the warm tone, mahogany asks for a marine-grade finish to hold up in the rain. The right pick for a budget-led replacement, a traditional porch profile, or a craftsman or farmhouse aesthetic. From $2,500 for a 25-linear-foot pressure-treated replacement to $7,000 for a clear cedar or mahogany run with shaped balusters.

Wood Railing — pressure-treated, cedar, fir, mahogany; traditional profile

Cable Railing

Stainless 316 marine-grade cable strung horizontally between posts, tensioned tight enough that the cable spacing passes the 4-inch sphere rule (typically 3-inch on-center spacing). Posts can be aluminum, stainless, powder-coated steel, or wood with through-post tensioner hardware. The cleanest sight-line of any system after frameless glass — a view-deck favorite for Lake Washington, Puget Sound, and Cascade-facing properties. Cables require annual re-tensioning for the first two to three years (the cable creeps under load and slackens) and inspection every spring; we walk that schedule with you. Vendors we install — Atlantis Rail, Feeney CableRail, Ultra-tec. From $4,500 for a basic aluminum-post system on a small deck to $12,000 for a powder-coated steel-post premium system on a long view run.

Cable Railing — 316 stainless, view-deck sight-line, annual re-tensioning schedule

Glass Railing

Tempered laminated glass per IBC 2407 (laminated is required for guard use — if both lites break, the interlayer holds the assembly together long enough to prevent a fall). Three mounting styles — framed (top and bottom rail, picket-style vertical posts), frameless base-channel (continuous channel mounted to the deck framing), or frameless standoff (point-loaded stainless standoffs into the deck framing or fascia). The strongest sight-line, the highest cost, and the highest maintenance (glass shows every water spot, every rain mark, every dog nose-print — plan on a monthly squeegee). Vendors — C.R. Laurence, Crystalia, Q-railing. From $6,000 for a framed system on a small balcony to $16,000 for a frameless standoff system on a long view run.

Glass Railing — tempered laminated to IBC 2407, framed or frameless

Aluminum Railing

Powder-coated aluminum systems from major fabricators (AFCO Aluminum, Westbury, Trex Signature, Fortress, Key-Link). Square or round pickets, sleek top and bottom rails, color-through powder coat that does not flake or peel like paint. The lowest-maintenance material of any railing system — no painting, no staining, no annual sealer, no cable re-tensioning. A clear runner-up on price between wood and the premium materials. Color options are typically black, bronze, white, and a few textured premium colors. From $3,500 for a standard black 25-linear-foot run to $9,000 for a longer premium-color textured system.

Aluminum Railing — powder-coated, no maintenance, AFCO and Westbury

Composite Railing

Composite top rail and balusters in PVC or composite material from the same manufacturers as composite decking — TimberTech Impression Rail, Trex Transcend, Fiberon Symmetry. The right pairing if the deck itself is composite (or about to be), so the railing tone matches the decking line out of the box. 25-year warranty typical from each manufacturer. Aluminum balusters are commonly mixed with composite top and bottom rails (the strength of aluminum where the load actually concentrates, the composite color match where it shows). From $3,500 for a standard composite system to $9,000 for a top-tier Trex Signature with aluminum balusters and color-matched posts.

Composite Railing — TimberTech, Trex, Fiberon; deck-matched

Wide editorial photo of a Handis railing install in progress — lead carpenter setting the last cable tensioner on a stainless cable railing run, a torque wrench in hand, the powder-coated steel posts already plumbed and through-bolted to the deck framing, and a stack of clear cedar top rail blanks staged on a drop cloth on the lawn just below the deck.
Pricing

Railings Pricing

Final pricing depends on the linear footage, the material selected, the post style (wood, aluminum, steel, stainless), any returns or stair runs, and whether the existing framing meets the 200-pound load requirement (older decks sometimes need post blocking added before the railing install). Each material page lists detailed pricing for that system. Request a free in-home estimate for an accurate quote against your actual deck and railing run.

Tell us the railing run (linear feet, stair count, any returns) and the material you are leaning toward — we will quote the full install.

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Why Seattle Homeowners Book Handis for Railings
Trust

Why Seattle Homeowners Book Handis for Railings

A failing deck railing is not a cosmetic problem. It is the only thing between someone and a fall, and IRC R312 wrote the 36-inch height and the 200-pound load capacity into code because falls from residential decks are the most common single source of serious deck injury in the US — the CPSC has tracked it for decades. The deck guard that wobbles when leaned on, the baluster that pulls loose in a hand, the cable run that sags wide enough that a toddler can put a head through it — every one of those is a liability that should be on the next-fix list, not the someday list. Handis carpenters install every system to code, document the post connections in the photos we send at closeout, and tell you on the call which material is the right pick for the actual use case (kids and dogs, view deck, low-maintenance retirement, deliberate craftsman wood profile).

Built to IRC R312 — 36-inch height, 200-pound load, 4-inch sphere

Every guard we install meets the residential code — 36-inch minimum guard height (42 inches in jurisdictions like Bellevue and parts of Seattle DCI where the deck sits more than 30 inches above grade — we check the AHJ before the quote), the 200-pound concentrated load capacity at the top rail (post spacing and through-bolt schedule are sized for it), and the 4-inch sphere rule for infill (no opening wide enough that a 4-inch sphere passes — sized by manufacturer for aluminum and composite systems, set by cable tension and on-center spacing for cable, set by glass panel size for glass). We document the post connections with photos at closeout.

Honest material pick — what the railing is actually for

We will tell you on the call which material fits the use case. Wood for a craftsman or farmhouse aesthetic where the homeowner wants to refinish every few years. Cable or glass for a view deck where the sight-line is the whole reason for the deck. Aluminum or composite for a low-maintenance install where the homeowner does not want to refinish anything. We do not push the highest-priced material when the use case fits a lower-cost option — and we will be straight about the maintenance schedule (cable re-tensioning, wood sealer, glass squeegee) before you commit.

Post connections done right — through-bolted, blocked, no lag-screws into rim

The single most common deck-railing failure pattern is a post connected with lag screws into the deck rim joist alone — the lags pull out over time as the wood checks and seasons, and the railing goes wobbly. Code requires posts connected to the framing so the assembly carries the 200-pound load at the top rail; that means through-bolts with washers (not lag screws into end-grain), and blocking inside the rim joist at every post location. If the existing framing does not have the blocking, we add it (priced as a per-post add-on on the quote). Newly installed railings get the right connection from day one.

One Handis crew start to finish — no sub coordination, no schedule gaps

Railings is pure carpentry. No licensed plumber, no licensed electrician, no permit through a third party in most jurisdictions (Seattle DCI does not require a building permit for a like-for-like railing replacement on an existing deck; new construction or a change in guard height or structural framing is a different matter). One Handis crew shows up, demos the old railing, installs the new system, hauls the debris, and runs the punch list with you at the end. Most railing projects finish in one to three working days depending on the run length.

Insured, background-checked, 30-day workmanship + 2-year structural warranty

Every Handis carpenter carries general liability and workers' compensation insurance and has cleared a background screening before the first job. The 30-day workmanship guarantee covers caulk joints, finish, and any cosmetic punch-list item. The 2-year structural warranty covers the post connections, the rail-to-post fasteners, and the infill anchoring — if a post loosens or a cable tensioner fails inside 2 years from our install, we come back and fix at no charge. Manufacturer warranties (cable, glass, aluminum, composite) run 10 to 25 years depending on the system and pass through to the homeowner at install.

Estimate

Tell us the railing run (linear feet, how many stair runs, any returns or corners), the deck height above grade (drives the 36 vs 42-inch height question), the material you are leaning toward (wood, cable, glass, aluminum, composite), and any constraints — view deck, dogs and kids, a hot tub on the deck, a fixed budget. We send back a clear estimate and a project timeline.

Service cost estimate illustration
Reviews

What Our Customers Say

Recent railing-install reviews from verified Seattle-area Handis customers across all five material systems.

FAQ

Frequently Asked Questions

Common questions about Handis railing installs — code requirements, material trade-offs, maintenance, pricing, permits, and what fits one carpentry crew versus a multi-trade project.

How much does a railing install cost?
Five material systems, five price floors — wood starts at $2,500 (25-linear-foot pressure-treated replacement), aluminum and composite both start at $3,500 (standard 25-linear-foot run), cable starts at $4,500 (316 stainless on aluminum posts), and glass starts at $6,000 (framed tempered laminated on a small balcony). Top-end pricing on each system runs $7,000 (clear cedar or mahogany with shaped balusters), $9,000 (premium aluminum with textured color), $9,000 (top-tier composite like Trex Signature with aluminum balusters), $12,000 (premium cable on powder-coated steel posts), and $16,000 (frameless standoff glass on a long view run). You get a written estimate before any work begins.
Does the railing have to meet a specific code?
Yes — IRC R312 (the International Residential Code) governs residential guards. The three load-bearing requirements are 36-inch minimum guard height (measured from the deck or stair surface to the top rail), the 200-pound concentrated load capacity at the top rail (the assembly cannot deflect or fail under a 200-pound point load applied at any direction at the top rail), and the 4-inch sphere rule (no opening in the infill wide enough that a 4-inch sphere can pass through — set by manufacturer spec for aluminum and composite, set by cable tension and 3-inch on-center spacing for cable, set by glass panel sizing for glass). Some Seattle-area jurisdictions amend the height to 42 inches for decks more than 30 inches above grade — we check the AHJ before quoting.
Do I need a permit for a railing replacement?
Usually not for a like-for-like replacement on an existing deck — Seattle DCI does not require a building permit for replacing a deck railing on an existing deck where the deck framing itself is not being altered. New construction (a new deck or a deck addition) does require a permit, and the railing spec is included in that permit. A change in guard height (raising from 36 to 42 inches to meet a jurisdiction amendment), a change in structural support (adding posts where none existed), or any work that touches the framing under the deck typically does. We tell you on the estimate visit which scope needs a permit and who pulls it — for pure railing work we typically self-perform without one.
How long does a railing install take?
Most railing projects finish in one to three working days. A 25-linear-foot pressure-treated wood replacement is one day. A 40-linear-foot cable or aluminum run is two days. A long composite or cable run with stair returns is two to three days. A frameless glass install is two to three days because the glass panels often need a lead time of 1 to 2 weeks from the fabricator and the install itself wants a careful set. We give a working-day schedule at contract signing and stick to it.
Which material is right for me?
It depends on the use case. Wood for a craftsman or farmhouse aesthetic where you do not mind refinishing every few years — the lowest material cost. Cable for a view deck where the sight-line is the whole reason for the deck and you accept an annual re-tensioning visit for the first two to three years. Glass for the strongest sight-line and the highest budget — the most maintenance (monthly squeegee), the highest material cost. Aluminum for the lowest-maintenance install where you want zero refinishing and zero re-tensioning — a clean modern look in black, bronze, or white. Composite when the deck itself is composite and you want the railing tone to match the decking line out of the box. We walk through the trade-offs on the estimate visit.
Do cables really need re-tensioning?
Yes — every cable system. The stainless cable creeps under load and the natural seasoning of the deck framing settles in the first two to three years; both pull tension out of the cable run. The result is a railing that was at the 3-inch on-center spacing on install day and is now at 4-plus inches on the bottom cables. We schedule a free first-year re-tension visit at install and walk you through the annual inspection and re-tension routine after that. Cables stabilize after year three and need re-tension every two to three years thereafter. If a cable run is left untouched for five-plus years, the bottom cables can fail the 4-inch sphere rule and need attention.
How does the railing connect to the deck framing?
The single most important detail in a railing install. Posts are through-bolted with washers (not lag-screwed into the end-grain of the rim joist — that connection pulls out as the wood seasons and is the leading cause of deck guard failure). Inside the rim joist at every post location we add solid blocking (a piece of framing the same depth as the joist, full-width between the joists, glued and screwed) so the through-bolt has solid wood to clamp through. If the existing deck does not have blocking, we add it as part of the install (priced at $125 per post on the quote). The blocking is hidden inside the framing once the deck skirt is reinstalled; the connection is what carries the 200-pound code load.
What about a stair handrail — is that separate?
Stair handrails are a separate code requirement (IRC R311.7.8) and we install them as either part of a full deck-and-stair railing project or as a stand-alone add-on. A code-compliant stair handrail must be graspable (the cross-section that fits in a closed hand — typically 1.25 to 2 inches in diameter for a round rail, with specific geometry rules for shaped rails), continuous over the full stair run with returns at top and bottom, mounted between 34 and 38 inches above the stair nosing. We can match the handrail to the deck railing material (pressure-treated, cedar, aluminum) or install a separate code-compliant rail on its own. Priced at $65 per linear foot for a stand-alone install.
Do you cover homes outside Seattle proper?
Yes — most of the Puget Sound region is in service area, from north Seattle and Shoreline through Bellevue, Redmond, Kirkland, Issaquah, Sammamish, Renton, Tukwila, Burien, and south to Federal Way and Auburn. View-deck cable and glass installs on the I-90 corridor (North Bend, Snoqualmie) and the Olympic Peninsula side (Kingston, Poulsbo) are covered with a travel premium added to the project price; we will name it on the quote before you sign. Outside that radius we will tell you on the call if the math works.
Is the work guaranteed?
Yes. Handis carries general liability and workers' compensation; every technician has cleared a background screening. Our 30-day workmanship guarantee covers caulk joints, finish, and any cosmetic punch-list item. The 2-year structural warranty covers the post connections, the rail-to-post fasteners, and the infill anchoring — if a post loosens, a cable tensioner fails, a glass clip loosens, or a baluster pulls inside 2 years from our installation, we come back and fix at no charge. Manufacturer warranties on the materials themselves run 10 years (most cable hardware) to 25 years (TimberTech, Trex, Fiberon composite) and pass through to the homeowner at install — we hand over the warranty paperwork at closeout.

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