Vanity Replacement

Handis vanity replacement is the same-footprint single-sink bathroom-vanity swap that resets a dated bathroom in one to two days from $900 plus the licensed plumber's separate invoice on the supply and drain reconnect. The 30-inch builder vanity with the molded-in sink that has been chipped at the front edge for nine years. The cabinet that has soft-bottomed under the trap from a slow drip nobody caught. The 1992 oak vanity sitting in a 2026 brushed-nickel-and-quartz bathroom. New vanity in, old vanity out, sink reconnected to the wall, mirror hung straight on a square strike — total project two working days including the plumber's half-day on the supply and drain. Cabinet widths from 24 to 48 inches on the same footprint as the old. The in-wall plumbing routes to a licensed Washington L&I plumber on a coordinated subcontract; we name the sub line by line on the quote.

Vanity replacement image — newly installed 36-inch shaker-front bathroom vanity in soft white finish with a quartz top and undermount sink, brushed-nickel faucet centered, a framed mirror above with two LED sconces, the original tile floor preserved, and a folded drop cloth in the doorway.

Service

What Does a Bathroom Vanity Replacement Include?

Vanity replacement is the single-sink bathroom-vanity swap on the same footprint — demo the old cabinet and top, set the new cabinet, scribe to the actual wall, shim and plumb to level, install the new countertop and sink, hang the new mirror or medicine cabinet, and re-caulk the wet-zone joints — from $900 plus the licensed plumber's separate invoice on the supply and drain reconnect. One to two working days end-to-end on a standard cabinet width (24 to 48 inches) with the plumber's half-day fitting in the middle of the schedule. The work breaks into the Handis carpentry scope, the licensed-plumber scope, and the joint coordination Handis runs as project lead.

Handis Carpentry Scope — What We Do

Demo of the old vanity (cabinet and top removed and taken out of the house, debris on a drop cloth in the hallway, no drywall dust on the bedroom carpet five rooms away). Scribe of the new cabinet end panel to the actual wall using a compass-scribe transfer and a belt sander — almost no bathroom walls are plumb and almost no corners are 90 degrees, and the scribe is what closes the gap without a tapered caulk-fill that reads as off in six months. Shim the toe-kick to level on the actual floor, plumb the cabinet face, secure to the wall with the appropriate stud-anchor or rated toggle. Install the new countertop and sink, set the new faucet on the deck, hang the mirror or medicine cabinet centered over the sink with a level reference. Final re-caulk of every wet-zone joint in 100 percent silicone.

Licensed Plumber Scope — Why a Sub on Every Replacement

Washington state requires licensed plumbing work on every change to in-wall supply or drain lines. The licensed Washington L&I plumber handles the supply line reconnect on the new sink, the trap and drain assembly install, and the off-set drain reroute if the new sink does not line up with the existing rough-in (which it usually does not on any width change — a 30-inch cabinet swapped for a 36 puts the sink center three inches from where the old drain comes out of the wall). The plumber pulls the permit for any work that requires one, carries their own L&I trade warranty on the supply and drain scope, and invoices separately. We name the plumber on the quote, schedule their half-day visit between the demo and the cabinet set, and run the project from end to end.

Same Footprint, Same Rough-In Position — When the Plumbing Fits

A true same-footprint vanity swap that keeps the new sink centered exactly where the old one was (same cabinet width, same sink position, same shut-off valve location) sometimes finishes with a simple supply line and trap reconnect that fits in pure handyman scope. That is the cheapest install path on this service. Most vanity replacements move the sink at least a little — a width change, a sink offset on the new cabinet, a center-vs-offset sink position — and trigger the licensed-plumber rerough. We figure out the rough-in scope from the existing vanity dimensions and the new cabinet spec on the booking call, and we tell you straight whether your specific swap needs the plumber or finishes in pure handyman scope.

Countertops — Stock or Templated

Three countertop paths. Stock cabinet-included tops on a builder-grade combo vanity (cultured marble, integrated sink, no template needed) install with the cabinet on the same day. Stock standalone tops sized to common widths (24, 30, 36, 48 inches in carrara marble, calacatta quartz, granite, or wood) install on day two after a quick scribe at the back. Templated custom quartz or stone tops require a 1 to 2 week fab lead time after the cabinet is set — we set the cabinet on day one, the fabricator templates on day two, and we return for top install and final plumbing on day ten to fourteen. The path we recommend depends on cabinet width, sink type, and finish.

Photo of a vanity replacement in progress — installer scribing the end panel of a new shaker-front 36-inch vanity to an out-of-square wall with a pencil-scribed line, the old vanity already demoed and stacked outside the bathroom doorway, supply lines capped at the wall, and a folded drop cloth covering the existing tile floor.
Process

How a Vanity Replacement Works

Six sequential steps from the booking-call spec confirmation through the final leak check — the actual sequence we follow on every same-footprint single-sink vanity swap.

Pricing

Vanity Replacement Pricing

Final pricing is Handis labor plus countertop material plus the licensed plumber's separate invoice on the supply and drain scope. Stock cabinet-included combos finish cheaper and faster than templated stone tops. Off-set drain reroute adds plumber time. Request a free estimate for an accurate quote.

Send us the existing vanity width and the new cabinet spec — we will quote Handis carpentry and the plumber sub before booking.

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Why Handis for Vanity Replacement
Trust

Why Handis for Vanity Replacement

Every vanity we have ever pulled out had a soft spot somewhere on the cabinet bottom from a slow drip the homeowner never noticed. Every wall behind a vanity was at least a quarter-inch out of plumb on the run. Every drain stub came out of the wall just enough off-center from the new sink to need the plumber to flex the trap. Vanity replacement looks like a swap and reads like a swap on the website — the real work is the scribe to the wall, the level on the toe-kick, the honest plumber call when the new sink center moves three inches, and the silicone bead at the splash that does not pull away from the wall in six months. After enough vanities, every common failure mode has a fix in the truck and a named line on the quote.

Scribed end panels — no tapered caulk-fill at the wall

We scribe every cabinet end panel to the actual wall with a compass-scribe transfer and a belt sander before any cabinet goes to the wall for good. Bathroom walls are almost never plumb — a quarter-inch out across a 36-inch run is typical, half-inch is not unusual on older homes. The scribe closes the gap without a visible shim line and without a caulk-fill that reads as off in six months. The cabinet sits flush against the wall the entire run.

Honest plumber call on every rerough

Washington state requires licensed plumbing work on every change to in-wall supply or drain. Most vanity swaps move the sink at least a little — width change, sink offset on the new cabinet, center-vs-off-center sink position — and that triggers the licensed plumber's rerough scope. We are honest on the booking call about whether your specific swap finishes as a simple reconnect or needs the plumber's half-day on the rerough, and we name the plumber on the quote. No surprise bill mid-project.

Toe-kick shimmed to level on the actual floor

Bathroom floors slope. Tile sub-floors flex. Plywood under a 50-year-old linoleum is uneven. We shim the toe-kick on the new cabinet to level on the floor that actually exists, not the floor that the cabinet manufacturer assumed. The cabinet face plumbs up off a level toe-kick — the top sits flat, the doors hang square, and the drawer fronts close to the same reveal at the top and the bottom.

Templated tops measured after the cabinet is set

Templated quartz and stone tops measure to the cabinet as it actually sits, not to the cabinet drawing — the few sixteenths of an inch that the scribe and the shim added on either end show up correctly in the template and the top fits flush at every edge. We schedule the templater the day after the cabinet set so the top fabrication time is accurate and the install lands without a return trip for re-template.

Silicone perimeter — 100 percent silicone, not latex caulk

Every wet-zone perimeter joint — backsplash to wall, top to wall on the ends, sink to top on a drop-in install — gets 100 percent silicone (no latex caulk, ever, in a bathroom wet zone). Silicone bonds to glass, ceramic, quartz, and stone, stays flexible through humidity cycles, and does not bloom black mold the way latex does. Latex caulk in a wet zone is a six-to-twelve-month patch job; silicone is a seven-to-ten year seal.

Insured, background-checked, one-year project warranty

Handis carries general liability and workers' compensation; every technician is background-screened before the first job. The one-year project warranty covers our scope — cabinet set, scribe and plumb work, countertop install, sink and faucet install, mirror and medicine cabinet hang, and re-caulk. If a cabinet door sags out of square, an end panel pulls away from the wall, a re-caulked joint fails, or a mirror anchor loosens within the year, we come back and fix it at no extra charge. The licensed-plumber portion carries the plumber's own Washington L&I trade warranty on the supply and drain scope, named on the quote.

Estimate

Tell us the existing vanity width, the new cabinet width and brand (if you have picked one), the sink type (drop-in, undermount, or vessel), the countertop choice (stock, standalone, or templated quartz/stone), and any known constraints — an out-of-square corner, a tile floor you want to preserve, a previously leaking valve. We send a clear estimate with the licensed-plumber portion called out separately.

Service cost estimate illustration
Reviews

Customer Reviews

Vanity replacement reviews from real Handis customers.

FAQ

Frequently Asked Questions

Common questions about same-footprint single-sink bathroom vanity replacement.

How much does a vanity replacement cost?
Handis labor on a 24 to 36-inch stock-combo vanity with a cabinet-included top starts at $900. A 36 to 48-inch vanity with a stock standalone top (marble, quartz, granite, or wood) runs $1,300. A templated quartz or stone top (1 to 2 week fab lead time after cabinet set) is $1,800 in Handis carpentry. A 48-inch with a custom shaker face is $2,200, and a fully custom 60-inch single-sink with premium finish and hardware is $2,800. The licensed Washington L&I plumber sub is separate — $300 for a same-footprint supply and drain reconnect, $600 for an off-set drain reroute. Mirror or medicine cabinet hang over the new vanity adds $150. Total typical project runs $1,200 to $3,500 all-in on the Handis-plus-plumber line. You get a clear estimate before any work begins.
Does the plumber always have to come for a vanity swap?
Most of the time, yes. Washington state requires licensed plumbing work on every change to in-wall supply or drain lines. A true same-footprint swap that keeps the new sink centered exactly where the old one was (same cabinet width, same sink position, same shut-off valve location) sometimes finishes with a simple supply line and trap reconnect that fits in pure handyman scope. But most vanity replacements move the sink at least a little — a width change, a sink offset on the new cabinet, a center-vs-offset sink position — and the supply lines need to flex or be re-routed, or the drain trap angle changes, and that triggers the licensed-plumber rerough. We are honest on the booking call about whether your specific swap needs the plumber, and we name the licensed-trade portion on the quote.
My bathroom wall is out of plumb — will the new vanity sit flush?
Yes. Bathroom walls are almost never plumb — a quarter-inch out across a 36-inch run is typical, half-inch is not unusual on older homes, and corners that look 90 degrees are often 3 to 8 degrees off. We scribe every cabinet end panel to the actual wall with a compass-scribe transfer and a belt sander before any cabinet is screwed into place, then shim the toe-kick to level on the actual floor. The vanity sits flush against the wall the entire run with no visible gap. The tapered caulk-fill on a gap is the cheap shortcut that reads as off in six months; scribing is the right answer and every vanity we install gets it.
Do I supply the vanity, or do you order it?
You pick the vanity, top, sink, and mirror — the look is yours to own. We can recommend brand and product lines if you have not specified (Wyndham Collection, Cardiff Bath, Stufurhome, Avanity, Foremost, Kraus on the cabinet side; Carrara Marble, Calacatta Quartz, Daltile, MSI on the top side) and we can stage the order to land at our shop or your house before the install date so the cabinet acclimates and the templater has the cabinet in place when needed. If you want a fully custom shaker-front vanity built to an unusual size or for an out-of-square room, that routes to a custom-cabinetry order with a 4 to 6 week lead time. We talk through both options on the booking call.
How long does the install take?
Stock combo vanity with a cabinet-included top is a one-day install including the plumber's reconnect — demo in the morning, plumber late morning, cabinet set after lunch, top and mirror and walkthrough by end of day. Stock standalone top runs one to two days because the top install adds a half-day. Templated quartz or stone top is a two-visit project — cabinet set on day one, templater day two, top install and final plumbing on day ten to fourteen after fab. Custom shaker-front cabinets add their own lead time on the cabinet order (4 to 6 weeks) before the install starts.
What if there is water damage when you pull the old vanity?
We stop and tell you before doing anything beyond what the original quote covers. Soft subfloor under a leaking supply valve, water-stained drywall behind the vanity from years of slow drips, rotted bottom plate at a corroded shut-off, or substrate damage from a previously fixed leak crosses into carpentry and substrate-rebuild scope and changes the quote. You see the photos, you see the revised number, you sign off, then we proceed. The licensed-plumber scope changes the same way if the plumber finds a corroded supply nipple inside the wall — you see their revised number before the wall closes back up.
Can I keep the existing mirror, faucet, or accessories?
Yes — pulling and re-hanging the existing mirror is in the Handis carpentry scope at no extra cost if the mirror is going back over the same vanity center. The existing faucet can transfer to the new sink if the faucet hole pattern matches (most modern sinks accommodate 4-inch or 8-inch center spreads, plus a single-hole option for a single-handle faucet). Existing accessories — towel bar, robe hook, toilet paper holder — are not affected by the vanity replacement and stay in place unless you want them moved or replaced. Tell us on the booking call what is staying and what is being replaced.
Will the new countertop fit the existing backsplash, or does that need to change too?
Depends on the existing backsplash. A separate tile backsplash above the old vanity stays in place if the new countertop matches the back-of-vanity dimension (which it usually does on a same-footprint swap). A pre-attached backsplash on the old top comes off with the top and a new backsplash is part of the new top (most stock standalone tops and most templated quartz tops include a 4-inch backsplash). A tile backsplash that conflicts with the new top profile needs trim or a small re-tile, which we route to a tile contractor as a small add-on or handle ourselves on partial-tile work.
Can you replace the vanity without touching the existing tile floor?
Yes — that is the standard install path. The old vanity comes out without lifting tile (a clean cut at the silicone perimeter at the base, removed as one assembly where the cabinet allows). The new vanity sits on the existing tile, shimmed to level on the floor that actually exists. The toe-kick re-caulks to the tile in 100 percent silicone. The only scenario where tile gets touched is if the new cabinet is wider than the old and the existing tile cuts back to a different perimeter — we name that on the booking call and route the tile work as a small add-on.
Is the work guaranteed?
Yes — one-year project warranty on our scope. If a cabinet door sags out of square, an end panel pulls away from the wall, a re-caulked joint fails, a mirror anchor loosens, or any carpentry-side work fails within the year, we come back and fix it at no extra charge. The guarantee covers Handis carpentry — the licensed plumber's supply and drain scope carries the plumber's own Washington L&I trade warranty, also named on the quote so you know who to call for what. Every Handis tech carries liability insurance and has cleared a background screening before the first job.

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