Interior Door Adjustment & Planing

Interior door adjustment and planing is a five-step diagnostic fix for sticking, dragging, and non-latching interior doors — hinge screw repair, hinge shimming, strike plate realignment, threshold clearance check, and bottom-edge planing only as a last step — starting at $150 for a single-door hinge re-set. The bedroom door that scrapes a quarter-inch arc into the carpet, the bathroom door that needs a hip-check to close, the office door that swings open by itself at three in the morning because the frame is no longer plumb. Sticking and dragging interior doors are almost never warped — they are stripped hinge screws, racked hinges, drifted strike plates, or a new floor that raised the threshold a half inch. Handis diagnoses the cause before any material comes off the door, because a hollow-core door planed by mistake is a door that has to be replaced. Most fixes finish in 30 to 60 minutes per door.

Interior door adjustment image — close-up of an interior hollow-core door off its hinges across two sawhorses, a low-angle block plane mid-cut shaving the bottom edge, pencil reference marks visible along the cut line.

Service

Photo of an interior door planing job in progress — the door horizontal across two sawhorses in a residential hallway, a low-angle block plane mid-cut shaving the bottom edge, fresh wood shavings on a drop cloth, a hinge with longer-shank screws and a pencil staged beside the door.
Process

How Interior Door Adjustment & Planing Works

Five sequential steps from the hinge-screw check to the final paint-sealed bottom edge — the diagnostic order we follow on every sticking interior door so material only comes off when nothing else fixes it.

Pricing

Interior Door Adjustment & Planing Pricing

Final pricing depends on the diagnosis result, whether material has to come off the door, and how many doors fit into a single visit. Request a free estimate for an accurate quote.

Tell us which doors stick — bedroom, bath, closet — and we will quote the visit.

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Why Handis for Interior Door Planing
Trust

Why Handis for Interior Door Planing

The most expensive door-repair mistake we redo is a hollow-core door planed an inch off the bottom by a previous tech who skipped the hinge-screw check. The cardboard honeycomb core ends up exposed; the bottom edge cannot hold paint or weatherstrip; the door has to be replaced. We have walked into dozens of houses where the original problem was a single stripped top-hinge screw — a $2 fix — and the door is now scrap. Diagnosis is not optional. It is the difference between a 30-minute visit and a new door.

Estimate

Tell us which doors stick, what they are doing (drags, will not latch, swings open on its own), and whether new flooring went in recently. We will quote the visit.

Service cost estimate illustration
Reviews

Customer Reviews

Interior door adjustment and planing reviews from real Handis customers.

FAQ

Frequently Asked Questions

Common questions about interior door adjustment and planing.

How much does interior door adjustment cost?
A single-door hinge re-set starts at $150. Hinge shim plus strike realignment runs $175. Bottom-edge planing on a single door is $200. New-flooring door clearance — the most common post-remodel call — runs $225. Two doors in one visit drops to $275, three doors to $375, and a whole-home door check covering up to eight doors runs $400. You get a clear estimate before any work begins, and multi-door visits are cheaper per door than booking separately.
Is my door warped, or is it something else?
Almost never warped. Four causes account for nearly every sticking interior door. Stripped hinge screws drop the door a quarter inch and look identical to swelling. Racked hinges tip the door out of square in the frame. A strike plate drifted by 1/16 inch turns a door that closes into a door that will not latch. New flooring raises the threshold and the same door that cleared the old carpet now drags. We rule out all four before any material comes off the door.
Will planing void my door warranty?
Most manufacturers allow up to a half inch of trim from the bottom edge of a slab door without voiding the factory warranty. Hollow-core doors are stricter — the bottom rail is only 1 inch thick, and once you go past 1/2 inch the cardboard core is exposed and the door is scrap. We measure the bottom rail before any cut and stop short of it every time. We never plane the top, the latch side, or the hinge side.
Why does my door stick in summer but not in winter?
Wood absorbs moisture from humid air and swells. Solid-wood and solid-core doors can expand 1/16 to 1/8 inch across the width in a Seattle summer — enough to bind on the latch side. Hollow-core doors swell less because the skin is thinner. Most seasonal stickers do not need planing; they need a hinge re-set or a strike realignment that creates a hair more clearance. If the door binds only in July and August every year, we leave the wood alone — minor binding is preferable to a door that rattles in February.
My door drags on the new floor — do I have to plane it?
Sometimes. New hardwood, LVP, or tile raises the finished floor 1/4 to 5/8 inch. If the original gap was generous (over an inch), a strike or hinge adjustment can lift the door enough. If the original gap was tight (3/4 inch or less), planing is the only fix. We measure the actual clearance over the new floor (5/8 inch is the target — clears the rug, the door sweep, and any high spot), and plane to that target. Bottom edge gets sealed with primer and paint so the bare wood does not drink humidity.
How long does an interior door fix take?
A hinge re-set takes 15 to 25 minutes per door. Hinge shim plus strike realignment runs 20 to 30 minutes. A bottom-edge plane (off the hinges, scribe, plane, sand, prime, paint, re-hang) takes 45 to 60 minutes per door. A whole-home check on eight doors runs two to three hours depending on how many need material removal.
Can you fix a door that swings open by itself?
Yes. A door that drifts open or closed on its own is racked in the frame — usually because the top hinge has loosened or the frame settled and the door is tipping toward gravity. We level the door, identify which hinge is the offender, and shim it. The fix takes 10 to 20 minutes and is permanent until the frame moves again (which on a stable house is decades).
Do you paint the planed edge?
Yes. A planed edge left raw drinks humidity from the floor and swells back to where it started in six months — or worse, blocks (sticks) against the floor when the paint on the side of the door touches the bare wood of the bottom edge. We seal every planed edge with shellac primer (kills future blocking) and one coat of matching paint or primer before the door is re-hung. If you have leftover paint, bring it out. If not, we color-match from a fan deck on the truck.
Can a door be too damaged to repair?
Yes. A hollow-core door with delamination across the bottom panel, a solid-wood door split through the hinge mortise from a previous bad install, or a fiberglass door with a swollen rotted core under the threshold — those are replacement candidates. We tell you on arrival and can hang a new pre-hung or slab door in the same visit if you have one on hand, or quote the replacement separately.
Will the door drag again next year?
Not on our work. The hinge re-set uses longer screws that bite the framing behind the jamb — that joint does not creep. The hinge shim is permanent. The strike remortise is permanent. The plane gives 5/8 inch of clearance, which absorbs any further seasonal swell. The only failure modes left are foundation settling and a new floor going in on top of the planed clearance — both are separate events, not our work. 30-day workmanship guarantee covers our fixes.
Is the work guaranteed?
Yes. 30-day workmanship guarantee. If a door we adjusted starts dragging again, a hinge backs out, a strike no longer catches the latch, or a planed edge swells back enough to bind within 30 days because of our workmanship, we come back and fix it at no extra charge. The guarantee covers our work — it does not cover foundation settling, new flooring installed on top of our clearance, or doors slammed harder than the hardware is rated for.

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