Outdoor Shower

The muddy bike ride back from the Burke-Gilman that ends at the back porch with the homeowner standing in cycling clothes deciding whether to track mud through the house or strip in the back yard and freeze. The post-beach day at Alki or Golden Gardens that ends with sand in every fold of clothing and a child whose hair has dried into a salt helmet. The post-trail-run quick rinse before walking into the house after a Mount Si or Cougar Mountain morning. The garden cleanup with hands and forearms covered in dirt that needs more than the hose-bib at the back wall. The wet-dog rinse after a Discovery Park beach session. Outdoor shower is the Pacific Northwest practical luxury — the carpentry build that turns the side-yard or back-yard corner into a usable cedar-enclosed shower space with a real mixing valve, a real fixture, and a real drainage plan. Handis owns the carpentry — cedar enclosure framing and slats, concrete base or cedar slat decking with the grated drain, fixture mounting, drainage trenching. The licensed Washington L&I plumber handles the hot and cold water supply (tee'd from indoor plumbing) and the drain connection (to a drywell or a permitted sewer connection). From $3,000 for a cold-only basic cedar enclosure on a drywell to $8,000 for a top-end build with hot/cold mixer, premium fixture, and pergola overhead. Three to six working days. The most-used outdoor-wellness build we do.

Outdoor shower image — finished Handis cedar outdoor shower on the side yard of a Magnolia home, a three-sided cedar slat enclosure on a concrete base with a grated drain, a Sonoma Forge hot/cold mixing valve at chest height with a fixed shower head and a handheld on a slide bar, a cedar slat bench for sitting and a hook strip for clothes, and the licensed plumber's supply lines coming through the house wall labeled hot and cold.

Service

What Outdoor Shower Covers

Outdoor shower is the carpentry and plumbing build that turns a side-yard or back-yard corner into a real outdoor shower — cedar enclosure, base or slat decking with a drain, a hot/cold mixer, a fixture, and a drainage plan that does not flood the yard or back up into the house. Handis owns the carpentry. The licensed Washington L&I plumber handles the water supply and the drain connection. Pure carpentry plus a single licensed-trade coordination.

The Cedar Enclosure

Three-sided is the typical configuration (the fourth side typically opens to the house exterior for the water-supply run from the indoor plumbing). Four-sided with a swing door for full privacy is an upgrade. Cedar slat spacing 1/2 to 3/4-inch for full privacy with airflow, 1/4-inch for screen-only privacy with maximum airflow. Enclosure footprint typically 4 by 4 feet to 5 by 5 feet (enough room to shower comfortably without bumping the walls). Cedar grade is kiln-dried Western red cedar from a local PNW supplier (Dunn Lumber, McLendon, Crosscut Hardwoods) — never big-box-store cedar.

The Base — Concrete or Cedar Slat Decking

Two options for the floor of the shower. A 4-inch reinforced concrete base sloped to a central drain (the most durable choice, easiest to clean, no slat gaps to catch sand and debris). Or cedar slat decking on a sleeper system over a gravel-and-fabric drywell (the more traditional outdoor shower look, water shed between the slats to the drainage below). Concrete is the standard recommendation for year-round PNW use; cedar slat decking works better for summer-focused use and properties where concrete would be visually wrong.

The Mixing Valve and Fixture

Hot/cold mixing valve mounted at chest height inside the enclosure — Sonoma Forge, Speakman, Symmons, Outdoor Shower Co, or Trough+Brass are the brands we install regularly. The mixer handles the hot/cold blend (cold-only installs are available for budget-constrained projects but most homeowners want hot/cold for year-round use). Fixed shower head mounted at the appropriate height (typically 78 to 82 inches), optional handheld on a slide bar (the handheld is genuinely useful for rinsing kids, dogs, equipment, gear). Brass or stainless construction for the PNW weather — chrome-plated zinc rusts within a couple of years outdoors.

The Plumbing — Licensed WA L&I Plumber

Hot and cold water supply tee'd from the indoor plumbing (typically from the bathroom that backs to the outdoor-shower wall, or from the basement mechanical room), run through the house wall to the outdoor shower in insulated piping. No new water heater required for typical use (the existing water heater handles outdoor-shower demand at standard 2-gallon-per-minute fixtures). The drain connects to either a French drain to a gravel-and-fabric drywell, a surface drain to landscape drainage, or a permitted sewer connection (Seattle DCI permits sewer-connected outdoor showers with proper trap and venting). The licensed Washington L&I plumber pulls the plumbing permit under their license and schedules the inspection.

Editorial photo of an outdoor shower install in progress — Handis lead carpenter setting the last cedar slat on a three-sided shower enclosure, the licensed plumber on a ladder mounting the Sonoma Forge hot/cold mixing valve through the wall plate, the concrete base with central grated drain already cured, supply lines visible coming through the house wall labeled hot and cold, and the drainage trench from the drain to the drywell visible in the side yard.
Process

How the Outdoor Shower Install Works

Six sequential phases from site review to first hot rinse — the actual working sequence we run on every outdoor shower install, with the licensed Washington L&I plumber on two scheduled visits inside the project timeline.

Pricing

Outdoor Shower Pricing

Final pricing depends on the scope (cold-only vs hot/cold, base type, enclosure size and door spec, fixture brand, drainage routing), the plumber portion (supply run distance, sewer permit if applicable), and any optional details (bench, hook strip, pergola overhead). The licensed Washington L&I plumber portion is included transparently on every quote. Request a free in-home estimate for an accurate quote against your actual site.

Tell us where the shower would go on your property and the use case (post-bike, post-beach, post-trail, wet-dog) — we will quote the carpentry plus the licensed plumber portion line by line.

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Why Seattle Homeowners Book Handis for Outdoor Showers
Trust

Why Seattle Homeowners Book Handis for Outdoor Showers

An outdoor shower in Seattle sounds like a summer-only feature and turns into a year-round utility once it is installed. The summer use case is obvious — post-beach, post-trail, post-garden, post-bike, wet-dog. The winter use case is the one that surprises homeowners — a hot rinse after a 38-degree drizzly January trail run is one of the best small luxuries the property offers, a quick rinse off muddy hiking boots and gear before walking into the house keeps the entryway clean, the post-yard-work cleanup in spring rain is genuinely pleasant rather than miserable. The system only works year-round if it has hot water and a real mixing valve. A cold-only outdoor shower in PNW summer where the cold tap is 50 degrees is a once-or-twice-a-summer novelty; a hot/cold shower is daily use. Handis builds for the daily-use case unless the budget specifically demands cold-only. Pure carpentry plus a single licensed-trade handoff. Three to six working days. The licensed Washington L&I plumber pulls the plumbing permit and stands behind the supply and drain work under their license; we own the carpentry top to bottom.

One project lead — cedar enclosure self-performed, licensed plumber coordinated

Handis owns the carpentry on every outdoor shower install — cedar enclosure framing and slats, concrete base or cedar slat decking with the grated drain, fixture mounting, drainage trenching, finishes. The licensed Washington L&I plumber handles the hot and cold water supply, the mixing valve and fixture connection, and the drain connection on two scheduled visits inside the project timeline. The plumber pulls the plumbing permit under their license. The homeowner sees one project manager, one schedule, and one walk-through at the end.

Hot/cold supply tee'd from indoor plumbing — no new water heater needed

The hot/cold supply is tee'd from the existing indoor plumbing (typically from the bathroom that backs to the outdoor-shower wall, or from the basement mechanical room) and run through the house wall to the outdoor shower in insulated piping. No new water heater is required for typical outdoor-shower use — the existing water heater handles the demand at standard 2-gallon-per-minute fixtures without strain. The supply lines are insulated to prevent freeze damage in PNW winter (heat-tape optional for homeowners who use the shower in below-freezing conditions, which is rare in the Seattle area).

Drainage to drywell or permitted sewer — soil type and permit driven

Drainage is planned at the estimate visit based on the soil type and the AHJ permit requirements. A drywell (gravel-and-fabric, sized for the soil's percolation rate at the property) is the standard for properties with sandy or gravelly soil — handles the typical 10 to 15 gallons per use easily. For properties with heavy clay soil or no drywell location, Seattle DCI permits a sewer connection with a proper P-trap and venting to prevent gases from venting back through the drain. The licensed plumber handles the drain installation and the inspection.

Cedar built for PNW weather — kiln-dried local supply, stainless throughout

Cedar enclosures hold up in PNW rain for 15 to 20 years if built correctly. We use kiln-dried Western red cedar from local PNW suppliers (Dunn Lumber, McLendon, Crosscut Hardwoods) — never big-box-store cedar that is sometimes wet-stacked and twists or checks within months in PNW climate. All cedar joints stainless-fastened (never galvanized — galvanized fasteners stain cedar over time). Cedar slats spaced for the privacy detail desired (1/2 to 3/4-inch for full privacy with airflow, 1/4-inch for screen-only). The enclosure typically left bare to silver naturally; oiled with Penofin or TWP for the warm-tone retention.

Insured, background-checked, written one-year project warranty

Handis carries general liability and workers' compensation; every technician has cleared a background screening. The one-year project warranty covers our carpentry — cedar framing, enclosure construction, concrete base, drainage performance, and finishes — if anything in our scope fails inside a year, we come back and fix at no charge. The licensed plumber's portion (water supply, mixing valve, fixture, drain connection) carries the plumber's own Washington L&I-trade warranty under their license, named on the quote so you know whom to call for what.

Estimate

Tell us where the outdoor shower would go on your property (side yard, back yard, deck-adjacent), the primary use case (post-bike, post-beach, post-trail, garden cleanup, wet-dog), the hot/cold preference (cold-only basic, hot/cold standard, hot/cold premium), the base preference (concrete or cedar slat decking), the soil type if you know it (clay vs sandy), and any constraints (existing supply tap location, budget range, fixture brand preference). We send back a clear estimate with the licensed plumber portion named line by line and a project timeline.

Service cost estimate illustration
Reviews

Customer Reviews

Outdoor shower install reviews from verified Seattle-area Handis customers.

FAQ

Frequently Asked Questions

Common questions about Handis outdoor shower installs — scope, plumbing, drainage, fixtures, scheduling, and what to expect.

How much does an outdoor shower install cost?
Five price floors depending on scope. A cold-only cedar enclosure on a drywell starts at $3,000 (the summer-use basic). A hot/cold mixer with cedar enclosure on a concrete base runs $5,000 (the standard year-round build). Adding a handheld on slide bar and a premium fixture (Sonoma Forge, Speakman, Trough+Brass) runs $6,500. Adding a cedar pergola overhead is a $1,200 add-on. The top-end build with full pergola, premium fixture, built-in bench, and four-sided enclosure runs $8,000. Sewer drain connection (when drywell is not feasible) is a $1,500 add-on. Cold-to-hot conversion add-on for a Phase 2 upgrade is $2,000.
Does Handis do the plumbing, or do you sub it out?
Handis runs the project and self-performs the carpentry — cedar enclosure framing and slats, concrete base or cedar slat decking, fixture mounting, drainage trenching, finishes. The water supply, mixing valve, fixture connection, and drain installation sub to a licensed Washington L&I plumber on two scheduled visits inside the project timeline (supply and drain rough-in at the start, fixture install and final connection toward the end). The plumber pulls the plumbing permit under their license, schedules the inspection, and warrants their portion under their license. We name the plumber on the quote and stand behind the project as a whole.
Do I need hot water, or is cold-only enough?
Honest answer — hot/cold is the right spec for year-round PNW use. A cold-only outdoor shower in PNW summer where the cold tap is 50 degrees is a once-or-twice-a-summer novelty for adults (kids and dogs do not mind cold). A hot/cold shower with a real mixer becomes a year-round utility — the post-rain bike ride decompression, the cold January morning trail rinse, the post-beach wash-off where the kids actually let you finish rinsing them because the water is warm. We build for the daily-use case unless the budget specifically demands cold-only. Cold-only is a fine Phase 1 with the hot supply added later if budget is the issue.
Where does the water go — drywell or sewer?
Two options based on the soil and the AHJ permit. A drywell (gravel-and-fabric trench sized for the soil's percolation rate) is the standard for properties with sandy or gravelly soil — handles the typical 10 to 15 gallons per use easily and does not require a permit. For properties with heavy clay soil or no good drywell location, Seattle DCI permits a sewer connection with proper P-trap and venting (the trap and vent prevent gases from venting back through the drain) — the licensed plumber pulls the permit and installs the connection. The choice gets made at the estimate visit based on a soil-percolation test or known soil type.
Do I need a new water heater?
No — for typical outdoor-shower use the existing indoor water heater handles the demand without strain. Outdoor showers run at standard 2 to 2.5-gallon-per-minute fixtures (same flow as an indoor shower), the supply tee from the existing hot supply line, no separate heater is needed. If your existing water heater is undersized for your indoor demand already (a tankless that struggles to keep up with two simultaneous indoor showers, for example), we will note that on the estimate visit and recommend addressing the indoor capacity question before adding the outdoor shower.
How long does the install take?
Three to six working days for most outdoor shower installs. Day 1 to 2 is the plumber's supply and drain rough-in and the drainage build (drywell or sewer connection). Day 2 to 3 is the base construction (concrete pour and 3-to-4-day cure, or cedar slat decking which is same-day usable). Day 3 to 4 is the cedar enclosure construction. Day 4 to 5 is the plumber's mixer and fixture install and final connection. Day 5 to 6 is the optional detail install (bench, hook strip, pergola) and the finish coordination. We give a working-day schedule at contract signing including the plumber's visit days.
Will the pipes freeze in winter?
The supply lines are insulated to prevent freeze damage in typical PNW winter conditions (the Seattle area rarely drops below 25 degrees for extended periods). For homeowners who use the outdoor shower in below-freezing weather, heat-tape on the supply lines is an optional add-on ($300 to $500). For freeze-prone properties (parts of the I-90 corridor toward Snoqualmie Pass, some properties in Issaquah and North Bend that see colder winters), we will recommend heat-tape on the estimate visit. The mixing valve has a vacuum-break feature in most modern designs that prevents water from sitting in the valve over winter.
Which fixture brand should I choose?
Five brands we install regularly, all in brass or stainless construction for PNW weather. Outdoor Shower Co is the entry-level brand with reliable basic builds. Speakman has the cleanest modern profile catalog. Symmons has the best mixing valve consistency we have seen. Sonoma Forge is the premium tier with a strong aesthetic. Trough+Brass is the upgraded artisan tier with industrial-design styling. Chrome-plated zinc fixtures (often sold at big-box stores as outdoor showers) rust within a couple of years and we will not install them. We recommend the brand that fits the budget and the look at the estimate visit.
Do I need a permit?
The plumbing portion typically requires a permit pulled by the licensed Washington L&I plumber under their license — Seattle DCI permits plumbing alterations that include a new fixture and a drain connection. The carpentry portion (cedar enclosure, concrete base) usually does not require a separate permit if the structure is under 200 square feet and meets Seattle DCI accessory-structure exemptions. Sewer drain connections always require a plumbing permit. We confirm the permit question on the estimate visit and tell you who pulls what.
Is the work guaranteed?
Yes. Handis carries general liability and workers' compensation; every technician has cleared a background screening. The one-year project warranty covers our carpentry — cedar framing, enclosure construction, concrete base, drainage performance, and finishes — if anything in our scope fails inside a year, we come back and fix at no charge. The licensed plumber's portion (water supply, mixing valve, fixture, drain connection) carries the plumber's own Washington L&I-trade warranty under their license, named on the quote so you know whom to call for what.

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