Weatherization & Drafts

Handis weatherization is whole-envelope air sealing on a Seattle home in one visit — weatherstripping at windows and attic access, door sweeps at exterior thresholds, attic-hatch insulation, foam gaskets on exterior outlets, seasonal window film, and crawlspace vent covers, from $120 per door or window to $1,200 for a comprehensive draft sweep. Beyond the price floor lives the felt cost — the cold draft you can feel from across the room in January, the attic-hatch outline you can trace with the back of your hand, the outlet on the exterior wall that blows cold air at the plug, the single-pane window the previous owner never upgraded, the open crawlspace vents that turn the floor into a refrigerator deck from November through March. Weatherization is the trade for the slow energy losses no one sees on a thermostat — together they account for roughly 25 to 40 percent of the heating load on a typical Seattle home per Department of Energy field studies.

Weatherization and drafts hub image — wide shot of a Seattle residential interior with a technician installing V-strip weatherstripping at a double-hung window, a box of rigid-foam attic hatch panels and outlet gaskets staged on a drop cloth, a caulk gun and roll of door sweep stock nearby.

Services

Wide editorial photo of a whole-home weatherization visit in progress — technician on a stepladder installing V-strip around an attic access frame in a hallway ceiling, a tube of foam outlet gaskets and a roll of door sweep stock staged on the floor below.
Pricing

Weatherization & Drafts Pricing

Final pricing depends on the count of doors, windows, outlets, and vents on the actual house, and on whether the visit covers a single sub-category or a whole-home sweep. Multi-service visits are cheaper per item than booking each separately. Request a free estimate for an accurate quote.

Tell us where you can feel drafts — we will quote the full envelope, not one door at a time.

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Why Choose a Professional for Whole-Home Weatherization?
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Why Choose a Professional for Whole-Home Weatherization?

Most weatherization calls trace back to the same blind spots — the homeowner can feel the cold draft under the front door, so the front door gets sealed and the bill barely moves. The real losses are at the attic hatch (often the single biggest leak in the house), at the 40 outlet boxes on exterior walls (each a small chimney), at the windows that never close fully, and at the crawlspace vents the previous owner left open year-round. After a few hundred Seattle weatherization visits — craftsman bungalows, 1950s ramblers, 1990s split-levels, new construction with builder-grade seals — every one of those losses has a fix. We walk the whole envelope on every visit, not just the door you called about.

Estimate

Tell us the home age, the rooms with active drafts, the count of doors and windows, and whether the attic hatch and crawlspace vents have ever been addressed — we will send back a clear estimate.

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What Our Customers Say

Recent weatherization reviews from verified Seattle customers.

FAQ

Frequently Asked Questions

Common questions about whole-home weatherization, draft sealing, and seasonal envelope work in Seattle.

How much does weatherization cost?
Per-door and per-window line items start at $120 to $150. A whole-home weatherstripping visit (6 to 12 openings) runs $400 to $700 depending on count. An attic hatch sealing job is $150 standard, higher for pull-down stair boxes. A whole-home outlet-gasket sweep across 30 to 60 boxes runs $400 to $550. A standard crawlspace vent-cover kit (4 vents, custom-sized and labeled) is $150. The whole-home draft sweep with everything (walk-through plus full seal of every accessible path) is $850, and the pre-winter comprehensive package — sweep plus attic hatch plus outlet gaskets plus seasonal kits — is $1,200. Multi-service visits are cheaper per item than booking each separately.
Will weatherization actually lower my heating bill?
Yes, with measured limits. The Department of Energy puts whole-home air sealing at 10 to 20 percent off heating and cooling costs, with most of the savings concentrated at the attic plane (hatch plus top-of-wall seams) and the foundation plane (rim joist plus crawlspace vents) — not at the front door, which is what most homeowners think about first. A single $120 door-sweep replacement saves comfort but rarely moves the bill. A full attic hatch seal plus outlet gaskets plus weatherstripping is where the measurable savings come from. We tell you on the booking call which fixes carry the math and which are comfort-only.
What is the difference between weatherization and insulation?
Weatherization closes air-leak paths — gaps around windows, doors, attic hatches, outlet boxes, crawlspace vents. Insulation slows heat transfer through the building materials themselves — fiberglass batts, blown cellulose, spray foam. The two work together — adding R-30 insulation in an attic that still leaks air through an uninsulated hatch wastes most of the R-value. We do the air-sealing side as a handyman service. For new insulation (attic top-up, wall blown-in, crawlspace under-floor), we route you to a weatherization contractor and come back for the finish work.
How long does a whole-home weatherization visit take?
A targeted single-room visit (one door, one window, a few outlets) runs one to two hours. A whole-home weatherstripping sweep on 8 to 12 openings runs three to four hours. The pre-winter comprehensive package — walk-through plus sweep plus attic hatch plus outlet gaskets plus seasonal kits — is a full day, six to seven hours including the diagnostic walk-around. We do not rush the walk-around; finding the leaks is the work, sealing them is the easy part.
When is the best time of year to weatherize?
Late summer through early fall (August to October). The attic is accessible without 4-foot of new insulation in the way, the crawlspace is dry, exterior weatherstripping cures faster in 60-to-75-degree weather than in 40-degree November, and the work lands before the heating bill spikes. We work year-round, but October is the calendar sweet spot. January and February calls are usually emergency draft fixes — we still take them, the timing is just not ideal for whole-envelope work.
Do you do energy audits or blower-door tests?
No. A blower-door test is a building-science measurement (a calibrated fan that pressurizes the house to measure air leakage in CFM50 or ACH50) and requires a certified energy auditor — typically a Building Performance Institute (BPI) credentialed contractor. We do visual and tactile inspection — we can find roughly 80 percent of the obvious leak paths on a walk-around, but we cannot quantify the result in CFM. If you want the measurement, we route you to a local energy auditor and the audit findings become the punch list for our visit.
Should I close my crawlspace vents permanently?
No — this is a building-science failure that grows mold. Open foundation vents are required by most jurisdictions in the Pacific Northwest because the crawlspace needs to dry through summer; closing vents year-round traps summer humidity from the ground and condenses it on the framing and subfloor, creating mold and rot in two to three years. The right answer is seasonal covers — on in November, off in March. The permanent answer for a damp crawlspace is encapsulation with a sealed vapor barrier and a dehumidifier, which is a separate larger project that routes to a crawlspace-encapsulation contractor.
Can you weatherize without replacing my windows?
Yes — and for most older Seattle homes this is the right answer. Original double-hung wood windows in a 1920s craftsman can be sealed with V-strip on the sash channels and either exterior or interior storm panels, getting most of the way to double-pane performance for 10 to 20 percent of the replacement cost. Single-pane aluminum windows from the 1970s get shrink film for the winter season. We do not sell window replacement — if you eventually want new windows, we route you to a window contractor; what we do is squeeze the most out of the windows you have now.
What about smart thermostats and HVAC tuning?
Outside our scope. A smart thermostat (Nest, ecobee, Honeywell) is a hardwired install for most homes and routes to a licensed electrician unless your existing thermostat is a simple two-wire swap. HVAC tune-ups (filter change, blower clean, refrigerant check) belong with an HVAC company. Weatherization is one input to comfort and bills; the thermostat and the equipment are separate inputs. We will tell you on the booking call where each fits.
Does Handis cover both whole-house weatherstripping and door-threshold weatherstripping?
Yes, but in two different places. Whole-home weatherstripping (windows, attic access, garage-to-house door, basement hatches) lives on this sub-hub. Door-threshold weatherstripping — the strip around the perimeter of an exterior door that mates with the door's compression seal — lives under [door repairs and adjustments](/services/handyman-and-home-repairs/door-repairs-and-adjustments) because it is usually part of a door tune-up that also addresses the hinges, latch, and sweep. List both on the booking call and we run the whole visit as one job — same trip charge, same technician.
Is the work guaranteed?
Yes. 30-day workmanship guarantee on every weatherization service — if weatherstripping pulls loose, a door sweep drags, an attic hatch gasket fails to compress, an outlet gasket comes out of place, a window film loses adhesion, or a crawlspace vent cover falls off within 30 days because of our workmanship, we come back and fix it at no extra charge. Beyond 30 days, we offer a discounted return-visit rate for seasonal kit swaps and minor adjustments. Materials carry their manufacturer warranty (typically 5 to 10 years on weatherstripping, lifetime on rigid-foam panels).

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