Weatherization & Drafts

Handis weatherization is whole-envelope air sealing on a Seattle home in one visit — weatherstripping at windows and attic access, door sweeps at exterior thresholds, attic-hatch insulation, foam gaskets on exterior outlets, seasonal window film, and crawlspace vent covers, from $120 per door or window to $1,200 for a comprehensive draft sweep. Beyond the price floor lives the felt cost — the cold draft you can feel from across the room in January, the attic-hatch outline you can trace with the back of your hand, the outlet on the exterior wall that blows cold air at the plug, the single-pane window the previous owner never upgraded, the open crawlspace vents that turn the floor into a refrigerator deck from November through March. Weatherization is the trade for the slow energy losses no one sees on a thermostat — together they account for roughly 25 to 40 percent of the heating load on a typical Seattle home per Department of Energy field studies.

Weatherization and drafts hub image — wide shot of a Seattle residential interior with a technician installing V-strip weatherstripping at a double-hung window, a box of rigid-foam attic hatch panels and outlet gaskets staged on a drop cloth, a caulk gun and roll of door sweep stock nearby.

Services

What Does Weatherization & Drafts Include?

Weatherization and draft sealing is the trade that closes the building envelope against winter air leakage across six service families — whole-home weatherstripping, exterior door sweeps, attic-hatch insulation, outlet and switch gaskets, seasonal window film, and crawlspace vent covers — typically running $120 to $1,200 depending on scope. A typical Seattle craftsman or mid-century home has 20 to 40 leak paths in the building envelope — none of them obvious on their own, all of them costing real money every winter. The Department of Energy estimates whole-home air sealing cuts heating and cooling costs by an average of 15 percent when done thoroughly. Each family targets a specific leak path and uses a specific material — the truck carries all of it.

Whole-Home Weatherstripping

V-strip, foam tape, and compression weatherstripping at windows (every sash that opens), at attic-access panels, around basement-access hatches, and at the garage-to-house door. Distinct from the door-threshold weatherstripping that lives under door repairs and adjustments — this is the perimeter sealing of every other moving opening in the envelope. From $150.

Whole-Home Weatherstripping — windows, attic access, garage-to-house door, hatches

Door Sweeps

Adjustable aluminum-and-vinyl door sweeps installed at exterior thresholds — the front door, the back slider, the garage-to-house entry. The 1/4-inch gap under a typical exterior door leaks the same air as a four-inch hole in the wall. We measure, cut to length, and seat the sweep flush against the threshold without binding the door open or shut. From $120.

Door Sweeps — under-door drafts, threshold gap, garage entry

Attic Hatch Sealing

The attic-access panel in most houses is a piece of 1/2-inch plywood resting in an unsealed frame — uninsulated, gasketless, often the single largest point heat loss in the conditioned envelope. We add closed-cell foam weatherstripping around the frame, glue 2-inch rigid foam insulation to the back of the panel, install latches so the gasket actually compresses, and (where present) seal the pull-down attic-stair box with a rigid-foam tent. From $150.

Attic Hatch Sealing — gasket, rigid-foam panel, latches, stair-box tent

Outlet & Switch Gaskets

Foam gaskets installed behind the cover plate of every electrical outlet, switch, cable jack, and thermostat on an exterior wall. The plastic electrical box is a perfect chimney for cold air bypassing the insulation in the cavity behind it — a complete house has 30 to 60 of these on exterior walls. From $150 for the whole-home sweep.

Outlet & Switch Gaskets — foam gaskets, exterior-wall plates, whole-home sweep

Window Film & Draft Kits

Seasonal shrink-film kits applied with double-sided tape and a hair dryer over single-pane windows, drafty old aluminum-frame windows, and basement awning windows that cannot be replaced this season. Removable in spring without paint damage. Also covers magnetic interior storm-window panels at historic homes where exterior storms are not allowed. From $150.

Window Film & Draft Kits — shrink film, magnetic storms, removable seasonal kits

Crawlspace Vent Covers

Seasonal foam-insulated covers installed over open foundation vents for the November-through-March cold months, then removed in spring so the crawlspace can dry through summer. Distinct from permanent vent closure (a moisture and code-jurisdiction question). We size to your actual vent count, label each cover by location, and store the kit for next season. From $150.

Crawlspace Vent Covers — seasonal foundation-vent covers, labeled storage kit

Wide editorial photo of a whole-home weatherization visit in progress — technician on a stepladder installing V-strip around an attic access frame in a hallway ceiling, a tube of foam outlet gaskets and a roll of door sweep stock staged on the floor below.
Pricing

Weatherization & Drafts Pricing

Final pricing depends on the count of doors, windows, outlets, and vents on the actual house, and on whether the visit covers a single sub-category or a whole-home sweep. Multi-service visits are cheaper per item than booking each separately. Request a free estimate for an accurate quote.

Tell us where you can feel drafts — we will quote the full envelope, not one door at a time.

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Why Choose a Professional for Whole-Home Weatherization?
Trust

Why Choose a Professional for Whole-Home Weatherization?

Most weatherization calls trace back to the same blind spots — the homeowner can feel the cold draft under the front door, so the front door gets sealed and the bill barely moves. The real losses are at the attic hatch (often the single biggest leak in the house), at the 40 outlet boxes on exterior walls (each a small chimney), at the windows that never close fully, and at the crawlspace vents the previous owner left open year-round. After a few hundred Seattle weatherization visits — craftsman bungalows, 1950s ramblers, 1990s split-levels, new construction with builder-grade seals — every one of those losses has a fix. We walk the whole envelope on every visit, not just the door you called about.

Whole-envelope walk on every visit, not just the door you called about

A typical Seattle home has 20 to 40 air-leak paths — front door, back slider, attic hatch, 30 to 60 outlet boxes on exterior walls, 8 to 14 windows, 4 to 8 crawlspace vents, garage-to-house door, basement bulkhead. We walk every accessible one of them, flag what is leaking, and tell you which fixes pay back this winter and which can wait. Single-door visits get the door done; the bill stays high.

Right material for each leak path

V-strip at the window sash that needs to compress when closed. Foam tape at the attic hatch frame where the panel just rests. Closed-cell foam at the door bottom where the threshold is uneven. Foam gaskets behind every outlet plate on exterior walls. Rigid foam glued to the back of the attic hatch panel for actual R-value, not just air sealing. The truck carries all of it sized for the openings on your house, not one universal kit.

Seasonal vs permanent — we tell you which is which

Shrink film on a single-pane window is a winter-only fix that comes off in April. Outlet gaskets are permanent. Crawlspace vent covers come on in November, off in March (closing them year-round traps summer humidity in the crawlspace and grows mold — a building-science failure we will not do). We label what is reversible and what is not on the booking call and at the end-of-visit walkthrough.

Measured payback, not vague promises

Department of Energy field studies put whole-home air sealing at 10 to 20 percent off the heating bill, with the bulk coming from the attic plane (hatch plus top-of-wall seams) and the foundation plane (rim joist plus crawlspace vents). We tell you on the booking call which fixes carry the math and which are comfort-only (still worth doing if the draft bothers you, just not a bill-mover).

Insured, background-checked, 30-day guarantee

Every Handis weatherization technician carries liability insurance and has cleared a background screening. If weatherstripping pulls loose, a door sweep starts dragging, an attic hatch gasket fails to compress, or a window film loses adhesion within 30 days because of our workmanship, we come back and fix it at no extra charge.

Estimate

Tell us the home age, the rooms with active drafts, the count of doors and windows, and whether the attic hatch and crawlspace vents have ever been addressed — we will send back a clear estimate.

Service cost estimate illustration
Reviews

What Our Customers Say

Recent weatherization reviews from verified Seattle customers.

FAQ

Frequently Asked Questions

Common questions about whole-home weatherization, draft sealing, and seasonal envelope work in Seattle.

How much does weatherization cost?
Per-door and per-window line items start at $120 to $150. A whole-home weatherstripping visit (6 to 12 openings) runs $400 to $700 depending on count. An attic hatch sealing job is $150 standard, higher for pull-down stair boxes. A whole-home outlet-gasket sweep across 30 to 60 boxes runs $400 to $550. A standard crawlspace vent-cover kit (4 vents, custom-sized and labeled) is $150. The whole-home draft sweep with everything (walk-through plus full seal of every accessible path) is $850, and the pre-winter comprehensive package — sweep plus attic hatch plus outlet gaskets plus seasonal kits — is $1,200. Multi-service visits are cheaper per item than booking each separately.
Will weatherization actually lower my heating bill?
Yes, with measured limits. The Department of Energy puts whole-home air sealing at 10 to 20 percent off heating and cooling costs, with most of the savings concentrated at the attic plane (hatch plus top-of-wall seams) and the foundation plane (rim joist plus crawlspace vents) — not at the front door, which is what most homeowners think about first. A single $120 door-sweep replacement saves comfort but rarely moves the bill. A full attic hatch seal plus outlet gaskets plus weatherstripping is where the measurable savings come from. We tell you on the booking call which fixes carry the math and which are comfort-only.
What is the difference between weatherization and insulation?
Weatherization closes air-leak paths — gaps around windows, doors, attic hatches, outlet boxes, crawlspace vents. Insulation slows heat transfer through the building materials themselves — fiberglass batts, blown cellulose, spray foam. The two work together — adding R-30 insulation in an attic that still leaks air through an uninsulated hatch wastes most of the R-value. We do the air-sealing side as a handyman service. For new insulation (attic top-up, wall blown-in, crawlspace under-floor), we route you to a weatherization contractor and come back for the finish work.
How long does a whole-home weatherization visit take?
A targeted single-room visit (one door, one window, a few outlets) runs one to two hours. A whole-home weatherstripping sweep on 8 to 12 openings runs three to four hours. The pre-winter comprehensive package — walk-through plus sweep plus attic hatch plus outlet gaskets plus seasonal kits — is a full day, six to seven hours including the diagnostic walk-around. We do not rush the walk-around; finding the leaks is the work, sealing them is the easy part.
When is the best time of year to weatherize?
Late summer through early fall (August to October). The attic is accessible without 4-foot of new insulation in the way, the crawlspace is dry, exterior weatherstripping cures faster in 60-to-75-degree weather than in 40-degree November, and the work lands before the heating bill spikes. We work year-round, but October is the calendar sweet spot. January and February calls are usually emergency draft fixes — we still take them, the timing is just not ideal for whole-envelope work.
Do you do energy audits or blower-door tests?
No. A blower-door test is a building-science measurement (a calibrated fan that pressurizes the house to measure air leakage in CFM50 or ACH50) and requires a certified energy auditor — typically a Building Performance Institute (BPI) credentialed contractor. We do visual and tactile inspection — we can find roughly 80 percent of the obvious leak paths on a walk-around, but we cannot quantify the result in CFM. If you want the measurement, we route you to a local energy auditor and the audit findings become the punch list for our visit.
Should I close my crawlspace vents permanently?
No — this is a building-science failure that grows mold. Open foundation vents are required by most jurisdictions in the Pacific Northwest because the crawlspace needs to dry through summer; closing vents year-round traps summer humidity from the ground and condenses it on the framing and subfloor, creating mold and rot in two to three years. The right answer is seasonal covers — on in November, off in March. The permanent answer for a damp crawlspace is encapsulation with a sealed vapor barrier and a dehumidifier, which is a separate larger project that routes to a crawlspace-encapsulation contractor.
Can you weatherize without replacing my windows?
Yes — and for most older Seattle homes this is the right answer. Original double-hung wood windows in a 1920s craftsman can be sealed with V-strip on the sash channels and either exterior or interior storm panels, getting most of the way to double-pane performance for 10 to 20 percent of the replacement cost. Single-pane aluminum windows from the 1970s get shrink film for the winter season. We do not sell window replacement — if you eventually want new windows, we route you to a window contractor; what we do is squeeze the most out of the windows you have now.
What about smart thermostats and HVAC tuning?
Outside our scope. A smart thermostat (Nest, ecobee, Honeywell) is a hardwired install for most homes and routes to a licensed electrician unless your existing thermostat is a simple two-wire swap. HVAC tune-ups (filter change, blower clean, refrigerant check) belong with an HVAC company. Weatherization is one input to comfort and bills; the thermostat and the equipment are separate inputs. We will tell you on the booking call where each fits.
Does Handis cover both whole-house weatherstripping and door-threshold weatherstripping?
Yes, but in two different places. Whole-home weatherstripping (windows, attic access, garage-to-house door, basement hatches) lives on this sub-hub. Door-threshold weatherstripping — the strip around the perimeter of an exterior door that mates with the door's compression seal — lives under [door repairs and adjustments](/services/handyman-and-home-repairs/door-repairs-and-adjustments) because it is usually part of a door tune-up that also addresses the hinges, latch, and sweep. List both on the booking call and we run the whole visit as one job — same trip charge, same technician.
Is the work guaranteed?
Yes. 30-day workmanship guarantee on every weatherization service — if weatherstripping pulls loose, a door sweep drags, an attic hatch gasket fails to compress, an outlet gasket comes out of place, a window film loses adhesion, or a crawlspace vent cover falls off within 30 days because of our workmanship, we come back and fix it at no extra charge. Beyond 30 days, we offer a discounted return-visit rate for seasonal kit swaps and minor adjustments. Materials carry their manufacturer warranty (typically 5 to 10 years on weatherstripping, lifetime on rigid-foam panels).

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