Alcove Tub to Walk-In Shower

Alcove tub to walk-in shower is the most common bathroom conversion we do — a standard 60-inch alcove tub (the kind in almost every primary bath built between 1960 and 2010) becomes a curbed walk-in shower in the same wall-to-wall footprint, with a 4 to 6-inch tile curb at the entry, tile or solid-surface walls, ceramic or porcelain floor tile sloped to a center drain, and a framed or frameless glass enclosure. Seven to ten working days on a standard install, from $6,000 for a ceramic subway tile package with a framed enclosure to $12,000 for a premium porcelain large-format build with a frameless glass enclosure, a tile bench, and a niche. Handis owns the demo, framing, curb build, backer board, waterproofing, mortar pan and flood test, tile, glass enclosure, and trim. The licensed Washington L&I plumber comes in on two scheduled visits — drain rough-in (after demo, before framing closes) and final trim (after tile is grouted, before glass) — and we book both visits at project signing.

Alcove tub to walk-in shower conversion image — finished shower in a Seattle primary bath, large-format porcelain tile on the back and side walls, ceramic mosaic floor sloped to a center drain, a 6-inch tile curb at the entry, frameless glass swing door with a recessed niche visible on the long wall above shoulder height.

Service

What Alcove Tub to Walk-In Shower Conversion Covers

The alcove conversion is the most common Handis bath project — replacing a worn or unused 60-inch alcove tub with a curbed walk-in shower in the same wall-to-wall footprint. The walls stay where they are; the floor stays where it is; the drain converts (plumber) and the surround transforms (Handis). Everything inside the work happens inside the existing alcove. Permits required by Seattle DCI for the drain alteration go through the licensed plumber under their license.

Demo of the Existing Alcove Tub

The crew protects the surrounding floors with rosin paper, covers the adjacent rooms with plastic sheeting to control dust, and pulls the tub. Lightweight tubs (acrylic, steel) come out in one piece. Cast iron tubs typically get broken up with a sledgehammer inside the pan (they weigh 250 to 400 pounds in one piece) and hauled in pieces. The surround comes down to studs. We document the wall behind the surround — any rot at the bottom plate, any galvanized supply line that should be flagged for the plumber, any framing irregularities — before any new work starts.

Framing + Curb + Backer Board

We frame the entry curb (typically 4 to 6 inches tall, 4 inches deep — wide enough for a level top edge with the tile) using pressure-treated lumber and waterproof-rated framing. The wall framing gets sistered or shimmed if any studs are out of plane (older homes are rarely true). Cement backer board (Hardibacker, Durock) or a foam-core panel (Schluter Kerdi-Board, Wedi) goes up on the walls and over the curb. Backer board joints get taped with mesh and thinset; corners are bedded for the membrane.

Mortar Pan Build + Waterproof Membrane + 24-Hour Flood Test

A mortar bed gets dry-packed over the subfloor sloped at 1/4 inch per foot toward the drain (industry standard, Schluter or TCNA recommended). The waterproof membrane goes over the mortar — either a sheet membrane (Schluter Kerdi) heat-welded or thinset-bonded, or a rolled-on liquid membrane (RedGard, Hydroban, Mapei) at the manufacturer's required mil thickness. The membrane wraps the curb on all three sides and ties into the wall membrane above. Then the pan gets flood-tested: drain plugged, pan filled to curb height, left overnight for 24 hours. A leak shows up at the test or the wall behind it. Non-optional on every Handis install.

Tile Install (Walls, Floor, Curb)

Wall tile and floor tile install after a successful flood test. We typically use porcelain or ceramic for both, with the floor tile being smaller for slip resistance and easier sloping (typically 2 by 2-inch mosaic). Large-format wall tile (12 by 24-inch or larger) is the modern look and a Handis specialty when the walls are true. Niches get framed inside the waterproof envelope before tile so the recess is dry. Tile goes on with proper-thickness thinset and is left to set 24 hours before grouting.

Grout, Seal, Caulk Corners

Sanded grout in the field joints (cement-based, color matched), unsanded grout in the wall-to-wall and wall-to-floor inside corners ONLY if the joint is under 1/8 inch, otherwise color-matched silicone in those moving joints (the TCNA standard — grout cracks in moving joints, silicone flexes). Grout gets sealed 72 hours after install with a penetrating grout sealer. We tell you on hand-off how to maintain the silicone joints (re-caulk every five to seven years as a normal maintenance item).

Glass Enclosure (Framed or Frameless)

Framed enclosures use aluminum framework and 3/16-inch tempered glass — durable, more affordable, the standard for a $6,000 to $8,000 build. Frameless enclosures use 3/8-inch tempered glass with stainless-steel clamps — cleaner look, more expensive, the standard for an $8,000+ build. Glass goes in after the silicone has cured 24 hours so the door does not bind on a wet caulk joint. The plumber comes in for final fixture trim — shower head, mixer handle — the same day or the next day.

Photo of an alcove tub to walk-in shower install in progress — Handis carpenter setting the last sheet of Schluter Kerdi membrane over a freshly-built mortar pan, the drain assembly visible in the center with the linear slope marked in pencil, large-format porcelain tile stacked nearby ready for the next-day install.
Process

How the Alcove Conversion Works

Six sequential phases from existing-tub demo to glass-door install — the actual working sequence we run on every standard 60-inch alcove conversion, with the licensed plumber on two scheduled visits inside the timeline.

Pricing

Alcove Tub to Walk-In Shower Pricing

Final pricing depends on tile selection (ceramic vs porcelain vs natural stone), enclosure type (framed vs frameless), and any add-ons (niche, bench, body sprays). The licensed plumber's portion is included in every quote — not a surprise. Plumbing permit, where required, also lives inside the project total. Request a free in-home estimate for an accurate quote.

Tell us the bath layout and the tile selection — we will quote the project including the plumber's portion.

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Why Homeowners Book Handis for the Alcove Conversion
Trust

Why Homeowners Book Handis for the Alcove Conversion

After a few dozen alcove-tub conversions across Seattle baths from 1960s tract homes to 1990s suburban remodels, the same handful of details separate a 10-year shower from a 3-year one. Mortar pan sloped wrong by a tile setter who started with a thin bed at the drain instead of building from the high point — water pools at the corners and re-emulsifies the grout. Silicone left out of the wall-to-floor corner because the apprentice grouted everything — grout cracks open in six months at the heaviest-loaded joint. Glass installed on caulk that had not cured 24 hours — the door binds the first time it gets used. Backer board over an out-of-plane wall — the large-format tile lips at every joint. None of these are exotic mistakes; they are the production-rate shortcuts that get made when one trade chases the next without enough time. Handis runs the schedule so the time exists.

Mortar pan built from the drain, not from the high point

The TCNA-recommended slope on a shower pan is 1/4 inch per foot toward the drain. The way to build it correctly is from the drain outward — set the drain at the lowest point, mark the slope on the wall studs at 1/4-inch-per-foot rise, dry-pack the mortar to those marks. Building from the high point in is faster but lands the drain too high or too shallow. We build from the drain. Every pan gets a level + a slope gauge check before the membrane goes on.

Silicone in moving joints, grout in field joints — TCNA standard

The wall-to-wall, wall-to-floor, and any change-of-plane inside corner is a moving joint. Grout in a moving joint cracks within a year because the two planes flex independently. Color-matched silicone flexes and stays sealed for five to seven years. We put silicone in every change-of-plane inside corner per the TCNA Handbook standard, and we tell you on hand-off to re-caulk those joints every five to seven years as normal maintenance.

24-hour pan flood test before any tile goes down

The shower pan flood-tests for 24 hours — drain plugged, pan filled to curb height (or to a marked line), left overnight. A leak in the pan after tile is up means the entire tile job comes off to find it; catching a pan leak at flood-test stage costs an hour to fix and zero tile. Industry standard, never skipped on a Handis build.

Licensed Washington L&I plumber on two scheduled visits, permits via them

In-wall plumbing — converting the 1.5-inch tub drain to a 2-inch shower drain, repositioning the valve, any in-wall supply work — requires a Washington L&I licensed plumber per RCW 18.106. We subcontract that portion to a licensed plumber on two scheduled visits (drain rough-in day 2, final trim day 8 or 9). They pull the Seattle DCI plumbing permit under their license number, schedule the inspection, and provide the permit copy at project close. We are not licensed plumbers and we do not pretend to be.

Insured, background-checked, 30-day workmanship + 2-year tile/pan warranty

Every Handis carpenter carries liability insurance and has cleared a background screening before the first job. 30-day workmanship guarantee covers caulk joints, glass alignment, and any cosmetic finish. The 2-year warranty on tile-and-pan covers grout cracking from substrate movement, pan leaks from waterproofing failure, and any tile that comes loose — if it happens within 2 years from our installation, we come back and fix it at no charge. The licensed plumber warrants their portion separately under their own license terms; both warranties are in writing at project close.

Estimate

Tell us the bath layout (typical 60-inch alcove, oversized 66-inch or 72-inch alcove, or a custom footprint), the tile selection (subway ceramic, porcelain large-format, or stone), the enclosure preference (framed or frameless), and any add-ons (niche, bench, body sprays). We send back a clear estimate and a project timeline.

Service cost estimate illustration
Reviews

Customer Reviews

Alcove tub to walk-in shower reviews from real Seattle-area Handis customers.

FAQ

Frequently Asked Questions

Common questions about alcove tub to walk-in shower conversion — pricing, timeline, plumber handoff, design choices, and what to expect.

How much does an alcove tub to walk-in shower conversion cost?
Standard alcove conversion with ceramic subway tile and a framed enclosure starts at $6,000. Adding porcelain large-format wall tile brings it to about $7,500. Adding a frameless 3/8-inch tempered glass enclosure brings it to $8,000. A premium build with a tile bench, a tile-in niche, frameless glass, and porcelain large-format runs about $10,500. The top-end alcove build with natural stone or premium porcelain, two niches, a bench, body sprays, a rain head, and frameless glass runs $12,000. The licensed plumber's portion (drain conversion, any valve reposition, fixture trim) is included in every quote. Permits, where required, also live in the project total.
How long does the conversion take?
Seven to ten working days on a standard alcove conversion. The schedule is: day 1 demo, day 2 plumber drain rough-in, days 3 to 4 framing + backer board, day 5 mortar pan + waterproof membrane + 24-hour flood test starts, day 6 flood test passes + tile starts, day 7 tile finishes, day 8 grout + silicone, day 9 glass enclosure + plumber final trim, day 10 buffer for any punch list. Premium builds with benches, niches, and stone tile add 2 to 3 days. We give the working-day schedule at contract signing and stick to it.
Why does the plumbing get subcontracted to a licensed plumber?
In-wall plumbing in Washington requires a licensed L&I plumbing contractor per RCW 18.106 — converting a tub drain to a shower drain, repositioning a shower valve, or any supply work behind a wall is plumbing work that requires the license and a permit. Handis is a general handyman and remodel contractor, not a licensed plumbing contractor. We subcontract the plumbing portion to a licensed Washington L&I plumber we have worked with for years, coordinate their two scheduled visits inside the project timeline, and they pull the Seattle DCI permit under their license number. This is the legal answer and the honest one.
What size footprint do you work with?
The standard footprint is 60 inches wide by 30 to 32 inches deep — the size of almost every alcove tub built between 1960 and 2010 in the Seattle market. We also work with 66-inch and 72-inch oversized alcoves (more common in older homes built around bigger tubs) and with non-standard widths (a 1924 craftsman bath may have a 56-inch or 58-inch alcove that needs framing adjusted). On the estimate visit we measure the actual footprint, check the drain position, and quote against the real numbers — not a generic spec.
Should I choose ceramic, porcelain, or stone tile?
Three tradeoffs. Ceramic subway is the most affordable, has the longest installation track record, and ages well — the right choice for a $6,000 to $7,000 build and for any bath where simple-and-classic is the goal. Porcelain large-format (12 by 24-inch and larger) is denser, harder, more stain-resistant, and gives the modern look that sells in 2026 Seattle real estate — the right choice for a $7,500 to $10,000 build and for any bath you intend to live in for 10+ years. Natural stone (slate, marble, limestone) is the highest-end option but requires sealing annually and is the easiest to stain — the right choice when the aesthetic matters more than the maintenance. We will walk you through samples on the estimate visit.
Framed or frameless enclosure — does it really matter?
For aesthetics, yes — frameless looks much cleaner because there is no aluminum at the corners or top edge. For function, both work; the framed enclosure uses 3/16-inch tempered glass and aluminum framework (durable, easier to align, less expensive at $1,200 to $1,500 of the project total) and the frameless uses 3/8-inch tempered glass with stainless clamps ($2,500 to $3,500 of the project total). Frameless is the standard on $8,000+ builds and the upgrade-of-choice on mid-tier builds where the homeowner wants the modern look. We carry both.
Will my tile shower leak in two years?
Not if the pan was flood-tested and the moving joints have silicone, not grout. The two failure modes that cause tile-shower leaks: a pan that was never flood-tested (and had a small membrane gap nobody caught) starts seeping into the subfloor and the tile mosaic re-emulsifies the grout; and grout in the wall-to-floor inside corner cracks open and water gets behind the tile. We flood-test every pan 24 hours before tile and we use silicone in every change-of-plane corner per the TCNA standard. Our 2-year tile-and-pan warranty backs both. Re-caulk the silicone corners every 5 to 7 years as normal maintenance and the shower lasts 15 to 20 years easily.
Will the conversion damage the rest of my bath?
No — we contain the demo to the alcove footprint. Floors get protected with rosin paper, the bath door is sealed with plastic sheeting to control dust, the rest of the room (toilet, vanity, mirrors) gets covered. Demo debris is hauled by us — no dumpster sitting in your driveway. The rest of the bath is usable for showering elsewhere during the build; we tell you which days the water is off for the plumber's visits (typically 3 to 4 hours each visit). The bath is left broom-clean at project end.
Do I need a permit?
Yes for the plumbing portion. Seattle DCI requires a plumbing permit for any drain alteration or in-wall valve reposition — the licensed plumber pulls it under their license number, schedules the inspection, and provides the permit copy at project close. The pure carpentry portion (demo, framing changes within the existing alcove, tile, glass, surround) does not require a separate permit. Outside Seattle the requirements vary by city — Bellevue, Kirkland, Redmond, and most Eastside cities follow similar plumbing permit rules. We will tell you on the estimate visit which permits will be pulled and by whom.
Is the work guaranteed?
30-day workmanship guarantee covers caulk joints, glass alignment, and any cosmetic finish — if a silicone joint pulls or the glass door binds within 30 days, we come back and adjust. The 2-year tile-and-pan warranty covers grout cracking from substrate movement, pan leaks from waterproofing failure, and any tile that comes loose — if any of those happen within 2 years of our installation, we come back and re-do the affected section at no charge. The licensed plumber and any electrician warrant their portion under their own license terms separately. All warranties are in writing at project close.

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