Cabinet Knobs & Pulls
Cabinet knob and pull installation is the finish-hardware service that swaps decorative knobs and pulls on existing cabinet doors and drawer fronts — per-piece or whole-kitchen, with jig-drilled templates for clean factory-grade alignment — starting at $150. A box of brushed-brass cabinet pulls bought six months ago and still sitting on the counter, every door drilled at a 3-inch pitch from the factory and the pulls measured 96 mm on center. A sixteenth-inch of drift compounds across forty doors and reads as obviously sloppy by the time the eye gets to door ten. Handis runs a drill jig clamped to every door indexed off the same reference edge, marks twice and drills with a backer block behind the face, and ends up with a kitchen on a single sight-line.
Service
How Cabinet Knob & Pull Installation Works
Five sequential steps from the pitch check to the quarter-turn finish — the actual jig-drilled sequence we follow on every whole-kitchen and per-piece set.
Pitch Check & Spec Verification
Confirm the new pull pitch (3 inch, 96, 128, 160, 192 mm on center), check existing factory holes for match, and decide between per-piece swap on existing holes or fresh jig-drilled positions. Photo of an existing hole is enough to lock the scope on the booking call.
Old Hardware Removal & Hole Fill
Strip old knobs and pulls, extract any stripped screws with an easy-out kit. Where the new pitch differs from the factory drilling, fill old holes with color-matched Minwax Wood Filler on stained wood or paintable spackle on painted cabinets, sand flush, re-stain where needed.
Jig Setup & Single Reference Line
Clamp the Kreg or Rockler drill jig to every door and drawer front, indexed off the same edge across the whole kitchen — typically the inside-of-frame edge for standard overlay doors. Pulls end up on a single horizontal sight-line you can read down the kitchen.
Drill with Backer Block Behind Every Door
Scrap wood clamped behind the back face of the door before the bit punches through, so the drill exits into the scrap rather than chipping the inside veneer or paint. The detail no one sees and the one that separates a clean install from a sloppy one.
Mount with Quarter-Turn Finish
Set every pull and knob, hand-tighten the screwdriver until the pull seats, then a quarter-turn to snug — never the full-power impact-driver finish that strips the screw or splits the wood. Final sight-line check down the kitchen before walkthrough and the 30-day guarantee.
Cabinet Knobs & Pulls Pricing
Final pricing depends on piece count, whether existing holes need to be filled and re-drilled at a different pitch, and whether old hardware removal requires extra time on stuck screws. Multi-area visits (kitchen plus a bath vanity, for example) are cheaper per piece than booking each one separately. Request a free estimate for an accurate quote.
Send the cabinet count, the pull pitch, and a photo of the existing hole — we will quote the visit.
Why Handis for Cabinet Hardware
Most cabinet pull jobs we redo were drilled freehand off a tape measure. The first ten doors look fine. By door fifteen the drift has started — a thirty-second of an inch on one, a sixteenth on the next, the offset from the door edge wandering by a hair on each cabinet. By door twenty-five the eye picks it up and the kitchen reads as off. The jig fixes that — every pull centered the same way, off the same edge, on the same line. The job that takes twenty extra minutes of setup at the start ends up looking like the cabinets were factory-drilled for the new hardware. We will never run a whole-kitchen set without the jig.
Estimate
Tell us the cabinet count (doors plus drawer fronts), the new pull pitch (in inches or millimeters), and whether the existing factory holes match — and we will quote the visit.
Customer Reviews
Cabinet knobs and pulls reviews from real Handis customers.
Whole-kitchen swap — sixty cabinet doors, twenty drawers, all brushed brass at 96 mm on center. The cabinets were drilled at 3 inch from the factory. He filled every old hole, color-matched the stain (we have walnut cabinets), jig-drilled new positions, and the pulls ended up on a line you can sight down. Three hours, looks like the kitchen was built for them.
Painted-white kitchen, swapped twenty-two knobs for matte-black pulls. Pitch matched, no drilling needed, but I had tried it myself on the first three and one was clearly off-center. The tech took them all back off, ran the jig on the three I had done and the rest of the kitchen, and the line is perfect now. Hour and a half total.
Twenty-eight cabinet pulls in the kitchen plus six on the master bath vanity in one visit. Every door drilled on a backer block — checked the inside of two doors after he left and the back face is as clean as the front. Best detail nobody talks about. Bath vanity ended up matching the kitchen sight-line.
1996 oak kitchen, the original brass pulls were tarnished black and the screws had stripped on five of them. The tech extracted the stripped screws with an easy-out, swapped all forty pulls for brushed nickel, and re-tightened the cabinet hinges while he was at it. Twenty-year-old kitchen suddenly looks like a 2026 kitchen.
Six pulls on a bathroom vanity. Tiny job. The tech still ran the jig — said it takes two extra minutes and saves a redo later. The pulls are on a perfect line and one of them even covered a small dent in the drawer face that I had not realized was there. Worth the trip charge for the result.
Frequently Asked Questions
Common questions about cabinet knobs and pulls.