Door Hardware & Lockset Replacement

Door hardware and lockset replacement is the swap of knobs, levers, deadbolts, entry handlesets, smart locks, and mortise locks — paired with proper strike-plate alignment so the latch throws under its own weight — and starts at $150 for a single interior swap. The brass knob in the master bath that spins without catching, the front-door deadbolt that needs a thumb on top to throw, the entry handleset finally too tired after twenty years, the smart lock still in the box because the screws that came with it look an inch too short. Hardware swaps look like five-minute jobs and turn into two-hour fights when the strike is 1/16 inch off, the door is bored at 2-1/8 inch backset instead of 2-3/8, or the existing mortise will not accept the new strike plate. Handis brings the right templates, the longer-shank screws, and the patience to mortise the strike properly. Most single-lockset swaps finish in 30 to 45 minutes.

Door hardware replacement image — close-up of a residential exterior door edge with a new Schlage deadbolt being installed, the strike plate mortised into the jamb, a cordless drill and a Schlage installation template on the floor.

Service

What Does a Hardware & Lockset Visit Include?

Door hardware and lockset replacement is a two-part job — installing the new lockset (knob, lever, deadbolt, smart lock, or entry handleset) and mortising the strike plate so the latch falls into the strike under the door's own weight, with no forcing — verified across five test-closes before sign-off. The lockset is the easy part. The strike is the part rookies skip, and the reason a $25 knob turns into a $200 service call when the door has to be slammed to latch. We mortise the strike to the latch, not the other way around, and verify with five test-closes under the door's own weight before packing up.

Interior Knob & Lever Swaps

Round knobs out, levers in (ADA-friendly, easier on arthritic hands), or like-for-like brass to brushed nickel to matte black for finish changes. Standard 2-3/8 inch backset, 2-1/8 inch bore — we verify the existing prep matches the new lockset on the booking call. If the door is bored at 2-3/4 inch backset (common on older entry doors), we bring an adjustable-latch lockset that fits both.

Exterior Deadbolt Installation

Single-cylinder, double-cylinder, and keyed-alike deadbolts on existing prep (1-inch latch bore, 2-1/8 inch faceplate bore). We verify the throw — the deadbolt has to engage 1 inch into the jamb without forcing — and remortise the strike where needed. Doubling up on a single-deadbolt door (adding a second strike higher or lower) requires a fresh bore; we will tell you on the call.

Why Does Strike Plate Realignment Matter?

The diagnostic step most installers skip. The strike has to catch the latch on closing without any forcing — if you have to push the door to engage the latch, the strike is off and the lockset is wearing out twice as fast as it should. We mortise the strike upward, downward, or sideways, file the strike hole if the miss is under 1/16 inch, and remortise entirely if drift is over 3/16 inch. Five test-closes before sign-off.

How Does a Smart Lock Retrofit Work?

Schlage Encode, August Wi-Fi, Yale Assure, and Level Lock all retrofit on existing deadbolt prep. We swap the lockset, pair it with your phone, set up auto-lock and notifications, and test the throw against the existing strike. Battery compartments, Wi-Fi setup, and shared-access codes for cleaners or dog walkers all configured before we leave. Smart-lock arrival depending on model can be larger than the existing strike — we remortise to fit, not force.

Entry Handleset Upgrade

Front-door handleset upgrades (Emtek, Schlage Camelot, Baldwin) replace the exterior handle plus the matching interior knob or lever and tie into the existing deadbolt prep — or include a new deadbolt as part of the kit. Mounting holes rarely align exactly with the existing prep; we drill the new pattern and patch any leftover hole in the door face with a hardwood plug before the trim plate covers it.

Mortise Lock Servicing (Older PNW Homes)

Pre-1960 Seattle bungalows and Craftsmans run mortise locks instead of cylindrical bores — a rectangular lock body recessed into the door edge with a separate exterior thumbpiece. We service mortise locks (clean and lubricate the latch and deadbolt mechanism, replace the cylinder, refit the spring) without replacing the case. Full case replacements require sourcing a Baldwin or Marks mortise body to fit the existing prep — we will tell you on the call if yours qualifies.

Photo of a door hardware replacement in progress — new brushed-nickel deadbolt and lever set staged on the door edge, a Schlage installation template visible, a chisel and mallet on a drop cloth ready to deepen the strike mortise on the jamb.
Process

How Door Hardware & Lockset Replacement Works

Six sequential steps from the door-prep check to the five-test-close strike verification — the order we follow on every lockset swap so the latch falls into the strike under the door's own weight.

Pricing

Door Hardware & Lockset Replacement Pricing

Final pricing depends on the lockset type, whether the strike needs remortising, and how many doors are bundled into one visit. Smart locks and entry handlesets often include the lockset cost separately. Request a free estimate for an accurate quote.

Tell us the locksets, the finishes, and the doors — we will quote the whole visit.

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Why Handis for Door Hardware
Trust

Why Handis for Door Hardware

The single most-common service call we get on hardware is the smart lock installed by the previous tech that has not worked right since day one. The strike was off, the screws were too short, the auto-lock setting was misconfigured, and the homeowner thought it was the smart lock itself failing. It almost never is — it is the install. We have replaced enough Schlages, Augusts, and Yales to know which model needs which strike depth, which one needs the 3-inch screws for the deadbolt strike instead of the 1-inch pack-ins, and which app needs which firmware update before it will pair on the first try.

Strike to latch, not latch to strike

The latch is fixed once the lockset is in the door. The strike has to come to it — mortised upward, downward, or sideways until the latch falls into the strike without any forcing. We check this on five test-closes under the door's own weight before we sign off.

Longer screws on every exterior deadbolt

The 1-inch screws that come in the lockset box only bite the jamb. We replace them with 3-inch #9 screws that pass through the jamb and into the framing stud — that is what makes a deadbolt actually resist a forced kick. Standard upgrade on every exterior deadbolt we install. Adds maybe two minutes; cuts kick-in vulnerability by 80%.

Smart locks paired and tested before we leave

Schlage Encode, August Wi-Fi, Yale Assure, Level — each one has a different setup flow, a different battery compartment, and a different auto-lock behavior. We pair the lock to your phone, set up auto-lock and away mode, create shared access codes for cleaners or dog walkers, and run five lock/unlock cycles on each before we pack up.

Finish-match across the whole house

A new brushed-nickel deadbolt next to a brass knob looks wrong. On whole-home visits we verify the finish on the booking call and bring locksets, deadbolts, hinges, and strike plates that all match. Interior hinges sometimes need to come along on the swap — we will tell you if yours do.

30-day workmanship guarantee

If a lockset we installed binds, the deadbolt does not throw freely, the strike no longer catches the latch, or a smart lock loses pairing within 30 days because of our workmanship, we come back and fix it at no extra charge. The guarantee covers our work — it does not cover battery replacement on smart locks or wear-and-tear on the lock cylinder itself.

Estimate

Tell us the doors (interior, exterior, front-door), the locksets (knobs, levers, deadbolts, smart locks, handlesets), and any specific brands. We will quote the visit.

Service cost estimate illustration
Reviews

Customer Reviews

Door hardware and lockset replacement reviews from real Handis customers.

FAQ

Frequently Asked Questions

Common questions about door hardware and lockset replacement.

How much does a lockset replacement cost?
An interior knob or lever swap starts at $150. An exterior deadbolt install runs $175. A strike plate realignment without a lockset swap is $150. A smart lock retrofit (Schlage Encode, August, Yale, Level) runs $225 including app pairing. An entry handleset upgrade is $300 because the mounting pattern usually changes. Mortise lock service on pre-1960 doors runs $250. Whole-home lockset swap on up to eight doors is $450, and whole-home re-key on up to six cylinders is $200. You get a clear estimate before any work begins.
Do I provide the locksets or do you?
You provide the locksets. Locksets are a personal aesthetic and security choice — knob vs lever, brass vs brushed nickel vs matte black, single-cylinder vs double-cylinder deadbolt, basic Schlage Plymouth or Schlage Encode smart lock. We bring all wall-side hardware (strike plates, longer screws, hardwood plugs for any old holes, mortise chisels), the install templates, and the app-pairing flow for smart locks. Tell us the brand and model on the booking call and we verify it fits your existing door prep.
Will my new lockset fit the existing door?
Most modern interior doors are bored at 2-3/8 inch backset with a 2-1/8 inch faceplate bore — the standard most locksets ship for. Older exterior doors and some custom builds use 2-3/4 inch backset, which requires either an adjustable-latch lockset (we bring one on the truck if you tell us on the call) or a separate fixed-backset model. We verify on the booking call and bring the right hardware. If your door has unusual prep, we will tell you what fits.
Why does my deadbolt need a shoulder push to throw?
The strike is off the latch by 1/16 to 1/8 inch — usually because the frame settled or the previous installer hung the strike to the door instead of the door to the strike. The deadbolt is rubbing the strike face on the way through. We pull the strike, remortise upward or downward as the misalignment dictates, and refit. The deadbolt throws under its own weight after that. Most strike fixes take 10 to 20 minutes.
Can I install a smart lock myself?
Yes, and most people do — until the strike turns out to be 1/16 inch off, the existing prep does not match the smart-lock backset, the auto-lock setting fires while you are still in the doorway, or the app refuses to pair without a firmware update done over the lock's built-in Wi-Fi (not your home Wi-Fi). We bring the strike tools, the longer screws, the prep templates, and the firmware experience. If you have already tried and the lock is misbehaving, the visit is $225 — same as a fresh install, because the diagnosis and the fix are the same.
Do you re-key existing locks?
Yes. Whole-home re-key on up to six exterior cylinders to a single new key runs $200. We pull each cylinder, repin to the new key, and reinstall. Smart locks do not re-key in this sense — they are keyed-alike via the app code, not the physical pin. If you want every lock on the property to open with one new physical key after a move-in, this is the call.
What about mortise locks in an older home?
Pre-1960 Seattle bungalows and Craftsmans typically use mortise locks — a rectangular lock body recessed into the door edge with an exterior thumbpiece and an interior knob. We service mortise locks (clean and lubricate the latch and deadbolt mechanism, swap the cylinder for a fresh keyed-alike one, refit the spring) without replacing the case. Full case replacements require sourcing a Baldwin or Marks mortise body that matches the existing prep — we tell you on the call if yours qualifies.
How long does a hardware swap take?
An interior knob or lever swap runs 20 to 30 minutes per door. An exterior deadbolt with strike remortise runs 30 to 45 minutes. A smart lock retrofit with app pairing and auto-lock setup is 45 to 60 minutes. An entry handleset upgrade with a new mounting pattern runs 60 to 90 minutes because of the patch-and-paint on the old holes. A whole-home lockset swap on eight doors runs three to four hours. Mortise lock service is 45 to 75 minutes per door.
Should the deadbolt screws really be 3 inches long?
Yes — and this is the single biggest exterior security upgrade most homes are missing. The 1-inch screws that come in the lockset box only bite the door jamb, which is a 3/4-inch piece of pine. A 3-inch
What if the new lockset does not match the existing strike?
We remortise the strike. New smart locks especially have larger or differently shaped strike plates than the old hardware, and forcing the new strike into the old mortise leaves gaps that the door catches on. We chisel the mortise to the new strike size, fill any leftover gap with a hardwood shim if needed, and verify the latch falls into the strike under the door's own weight. The remortise is part of the install price, not an add-on.
Is the hardware work guaranteed?
Yes. 30-day workmanship guarantee. If a lockset binds, a deadbolt does not throw under its own weight, a strike no longer catches the latch, a smart lock loses pairing or auto-lock setup, or a hardwood plug pops out from a hole patch within 30 days because of our workmanship, we come back and fix it at no extra charge. The guarantee covers our installation. It does not cover battery replacement on smart locks, wear-and-tear on the lock cylinder itself, or damage from the door being slammed harder than the hardware is rated for.

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