Hardware & Accessory Swaps

Hardware and accessory swaps is the cosmetic-finish trade that closes a kitchen, bath, or entry in one visit — cabinet pulls, towel bars, house numbers, no-wire doorbells, smart locks, soft-close hinges, and mesh Wi-Fi — starting at $100. A box of brushed-brass cabinet pulls bought six months ago and still on the counter. A Schlage Encode smart lock unopened on the entry table because the old deadbolt is stuck. A house-number set leaned against the garage because the screws in the package are not long enough for stucco. Small parts, predictable scope, and a handful of details (template alignment, the right anchor for tile or plaster, lock backset, doorbell field of view) that decide whether the install reads as factory-finished or as "we will redo this later." Handis sends a vetted handyman with the drill bits, anchors, jigs, and patience for every surface in the house.

Hardware and accessory swaps hub image — wide shot of a residential kitchen and entryway mid-install with a brushed-brass cabinet pull jig clamped to a cabinet door, a small box of pulls and knobs staged on the counter, a Schlage smart lock and a Ring battery doorbell unboxed beside it, and a cordless drill on a folded drop cloth.

Services

What Do Hardware & Accessory Swaps Include?

Hardware and accessory swaps are the residential install scope for finish-grade hardware across kitchens, baths, and entries — cabinet knobs and pulls, towel bars and bath accessories, exterior house numbers and mailboxes, no-wire doorbells, retrofit smart locks, soft-close hinge upgrades, and mesh Wi-Fi setup — starting at $100 per piece. The trade turns a house into a finished house — the cabinet pulls that say the kitchen is done, the towel bar anchored into the tile instead of a wall plug that will tear out, the smart lock that opens from a phone, the doorbell that actually shows a wide view of the porch. The work breaks into six service families. Each family has its own pricing, its own anchor kit, and its own quirks. The truck carries diamond-tipped tile bits, drill jigs for cabinet pulls in every common pitch (3 inch, 96 mm, 128 mm, 160 mm, 192 mm), masonry sleeves for brick and stucco, longer-shank toggles for plaster over lath, and the Phillips, square, and security bits the hardware manufacturers ship. Gas, hardwired electrical, and new low-voltage transformer runs live outside this trade — a no-wire battery or smart doorbell is in scope; a hardwired retrofit that needs transformer work routes to a licensed electrician.

Cabinet Knobs & Pulls

Cabinet hardware swap on existing or fresh-drilled doors and drawer fronts. The work that finishes a kitchen renovation when the cabinets came from the factory drilled for a 3-inch pitch and the pulls you bought are 96 mm on center. We use a drill jig clamped to every door, mark twice before drilling, and run a backer block behind the door to keep the bit from blowing out the back face. Per-piece pricing for small swaps and whole-kitchen pricing for a full set. From $150.

Cabinet Knobs & Pulls — drilled templates, per-piece, whole-kitchen sets

Towel Bars, Hooks & Bath Accessories

Towel bars, robe hooks, toilet paper holders, glass shelves, and shower caddies — anchored into the tile, the stud, or rated blocking behind the wall. The classic failure here is a wall-plug pulled out of drywall the first time a wet towel pulls on the bar. We drill the tile with a diamond bit, anchor into the stud where the stud sits behind the tile, and use rated heavy-duty toggles where the stud does not. From $120.

Towel Bars, Hooks & Bath Accessories — bath hardware on tile, stud, or rated anchor

House Numbers & Mailbox

Curb-appeal hardware — the address plaque that finally lets the delivery driver find the house, the mailbox that replaces the one the snowplow knocked over last winter, the bronze or matte-black house numbers that match the new front door. Post-mount on a pressure-treated 4x4, wall-mount on siding, brick, or stucco, with the right fastener for each. From $100.

House Numbers & Mailbox — wall and post mount, curb-appeal hardware

Doorbell — Battery & Smart, No-Wire

Battery and smart-wireless doorbells — Ring Battery Doorbell, Nest Doorbell (battery), eufy Wireless, Arlo Wireless. The full no-wire scope: location pick for camera field of view, drill the mounting plate into the door casing or siding, pair to home Wi-Fi, set up motion zones, walk the household through the app. No existing doorbell wiring required. If your install needs a 16–24V transformer pulled in or upgraded for a hardwired model, we tell you on the call and route that portion to a licensed electrician. From $120.

Doorbell — Battery & Smart, No-Wire — Ring, Nest, eufy, Arlo wireless

Smart Lock Installation

Retrofit smart-lock install on the existing deadbolt — Schlage Encode, August Smart Lock, Yale Assure, Level Bolt. We verify door thickness, backset (2-3/8 inch or 2-3/4 inch), and bore-hole diameter before the new hardware comes out of the box, swap the deadbolt, pair the lock to Wi-Fi or the home hub, program four to six access codes, and test the lock from outside the door (not just from the hallway). From $150.

Smart Lock Installation — Schlage Encode, August, Yale, Level retrofit

Hinge & Soft-Close Upgrades

Whole-kitchen conversion from worn or bare-metal cabinet hinges to European concealed hinges with built-in soft-close — or a retrofit soft-close damper add-on where the existing hinges are still good. The work that turns a 1990s slam-shut kitchen into a quiet, soft-landing kitchen in one visit. Includes drawer-glide soft-close upgrade (under-mount Blum or Salice glides) where compatible. From $400 for a partial conversion to $1,200 for a full kitchen of 25 to 35 doors and drawers.

Hinge & Soft-Close Upgrades — European concealed hinges, soft-close drawer glides

Wi-Fi & Mesh Network Setup

Mesh Wi-Fi system install and node placement (eero, Google Nest Wifi, Netgear Orbi, TP-Link Deco, Linksys Velop, Asus), router WPA3 and guest network configuration, smart-home device onboarding to the right band, parental controls, and dead-zone troubleshooting with a measured room-by-room signal test. The smart-home and access-hardware sibling to the doorbell and smart-lock work on this hub. From $160.

Wi-Fi & Mesh Network Setup — eero, Nest, Orbi, Deco, Velop, room-by-room tested

Wide editorial photo of a hardware and accessory swap visit in progress — handyman aligning a brushed-brass cabinet pull on a kitchen drawer face with a drill jig clamped over the front, a small tray of remaining pulls and a smart lock box visible on the counter behind, a cordless drill on a folded drop cloth.
Pricing

Hardware & Accessory Swaps Pricing

Final pricing depends on the count of items, the wall or door material, and whether any existing hardware needs to be removed or holes filled. Each sub-category page lists detailed pricing for that family of work. Multi-area visits are cheaper per item than booking each one separately. Request a free estimate for an accurate quote.

Send us the boxes — pulls, towel bars, smart lock, doorbell — and we will quote the full visit.

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Why Homeowners Book Handis for Hardware Swaps
Trust

Why Homeowners Book Handis for Hardware Swaps

Most hardware-swap calls fail the same way. A cabinet pull drilled freehand off a tape measure is a quarter-inch off on door six and obvious by door ten. A towel bar set into a wall plug that came with the package pulls out of drywall the first time a wet bath sheet hangs on it. A smart lock installed without verifying the backset binds in the strike plate. A doorbell mounted at the wrong height aims its camera at a porch ceiling instead of a delivery driver. After a few thousand hardware swaps across kitchens, baths, and entries, every one of those failure modes has a fix in the truck — a drill jig that keeps every pull on the same line, a diamond tile bit so the anchor lands in the stud behind the tile, a backset gauge that catches the door spec before the new hardware comes out of the box, and a height-and-angle protocol for doorbell cameras.

Drill jigs on every cabinet pull, every time

Pulls drilled freehand off a tape measure drift a sixteenth-inch per door and the drift compounds across a kitchen. We clamp a drill jig (Kreg or Rockler) to every door and drawer front, indexed off the same reference edge, with a backer block behind the face to stop blow-out. The pulls end up on the same horizontal line, the same offset from the edge, the same fit-and-finish a factory would ship.

Right anchor for tile, plaster, stud, or blocking

Bath hardware fails when a wall plug from the package gets pushed into drywall behind tile and the screw lands in nothing. We drill the tile with a diamond-tipped bit, locate the stud behind it, and anchor the bar flange into wood whenever the stud lines up. When the stud does not, we use rated heavy-duty toggles (Toggler Snaptoggle or equivalent — 75 lb minimum) sized to the bar's load. The bar holds a wet towel for years, not weeks.

Smart locks tested from outside the door, not from the hallway

A smart lock that pairs with the app but binds in the strike plate from the porch is not installed. We verify the backset and the door thickness before the hardware comes out of the box, swap the deadbolt, set four to six access codes (family members plus a guest code), and stand on the porch to test app-unlock, keypad-unlock, and auto-lock at the actual distance you will use it.

Doorbell height and angle picked for the porch you actually have

A wireless doorbell mounted at 48 inches with no horizontal tilt aims the camera at a porch ceiling and shows a UPS driver's hat instead of their face. We pick the mounting height for the typical visitor's chest, angle the camera 10 to 15 degrees down where the package or the visitor will land, set motion zones so the camera does not alert on every car on the street, and walk the household through the app.

Insured, background-checked, 30-day workmanship guarantee

Every Handis handyman carries liability insurance and has cleared a background screening before the first job — and any work that puts hardware at your front door (smart locks, exterior keypads, doorbell cameras) is treated as access-sensitive work end-to-end. If a pull goes crooked, a towel bar pulls out, a smart lock binds, a doorbell loses Wi-Fi pairing, or a hinge starts squeaking again within 30 days because of our workmanship, we come back and fix it at no extra charge.

Estimate

List the items, the rooms, and any specifics you know — cabinet count and pull pitch, towel bar wall type, smart lock brand, doorbell brand, kitchen door count — and we will send back a clear estimate for the full visit.

Service cost estimate illustration
Reviews

What Our Customers Say

Recent hardware and accessory swap reviews from verified customers.

FAQ

Frequently Asked Questions

Common questions about hardware and accessory swaps — pricing, scope, materials, anchors, and what to expect.

How much do hardware and accessory swaps cost?
House numbers and mailbox start at $100. Towel bars, bath hooks, bath accessories, and battery or smart no-wire doorbells start at $120 per piece. Cabinet knobs and pulls start at $150 per piece for small swaps; whole-kitchen sets are priced separately based on door count. Smart lock retrofit starts at $150. Hinge and soft-close upgrades run $400 for a partial conversion to $1,200 for a whole kitchen of 25 to 35 doors and drawers. Multi-area visits (kitchen pulls plus bath set plus doorbell, for example) are cheaper per item than booking each separately. You get a clear estimate before any work begins.
Do you supply the hardware or do I provide it?
You provide the decorative hardware you have already picked — cabinet pulls in the finish you want, towel bars and bath accessories in the matching collection, the specific smart lock brand and model, the doorbell model. We bring everything wall-side — diamond-tipped tile bits, masonry sleeves for brick and stucco, rated heavy-duty toggles, drill jigs for cabinet pulls, the Phillips and security bits the manufacturers ship. If we get to the visit and discover the hardware you bought is a finish defect or the wrong size, we tell you on arrival before we install anything.
Can you swap pulls when my cabinet doors are drilled for a different pitch?
Yes. The typical mismatch is a kitchen drilled at 3 inch on center (a standard from the 1990s and early 2000s) and a new pull set in 96 mm, 128 mm, 160 mm, or 192 mm. We fill the old holes with a color-matched wood filler and re-stain where needed, then jig-drill the new pull positions on every door from the same reference edge so the pulls end up on a perfectly horizontal line. The filled holes are invisible on stained wood and well hidden on painted cabinets. Whole-kitchen pitch conversion is the most common hardware job we run.
How do you anchor towel bars and grab-style bath accessories without pulling out of drywall?
Three options, picked by what is behind the tile. First, if a stud sits behind the tile under one of the flanges, we drill through the tile with a diamond bit and run a stainless wood screw into the stud. Second, if the bar has structural blocking behind the tile (rare in homes built before 1990; common in newer baths), we anchor into the blocking. Third, where neither is available, we use a rated heavy-duty toggle (Toggler Snaptoggle, 75 lb minimum) sized to the bar's load — never the wall plug that comes in the package, which is sized for a picture frame and pulls out of drywall under a wet towel. Grab bars rated for ADA loads go on a separate scope and route to the [grab bar installation](/services/handyman-and-home-repairs/safety-and-childproofing/grab-bar-installation) page.
What smart lock brands do you install?
The four most common retrofit-friendly brands — Schlage Encode, August Smart Lock, Yale Assure, and Level Bolt. Schlage Encode is a full deadbolt replacement with Wi-Fi built in and works as a stand-alone unit. August retrofits over the interior side of an existing deadbolt, keeps the original exterior cylinder and key (the favorite for renters and people who do not want to change their key). Yale Assure is a full replacement with Z-Wave or Wi-Fi options and pairs well with Z-Wave home hubs. Level Bolt is fully invisible — the smart components go inside the deadbolt body and the lock looks completely standard from outside. We verify door thickness, backset, and bore-hole diameter on the booking call before recommending a brand.
Does a smart doorbell need existing doorbell wiring?
Not in scope on this page. The doorbell-battery-smart-no-wire page covers wireless and battery models that mount and pair without any existing wiring — Ring Battery Doorbell, Nest Doorbell (battery), eufy Wireless, Arlo Wireless. If your house has hardwired doorbell transformer wiring you want to use, or you want to upgrade to a hardwired model that needs a 16 to 24 volt transformer pulled in or replaced, the transformer side of that work routes to a licensed Washington L&I electrician. We tell you on the booking call which side of the line your install lands on.
What is a soft-close hinge and what does the upgrade involve?
A soft-close hinge has a built-in hydraulic damper that slows the last 30 degrees of door travel so the door lands silently against the cabinet frame. European concealed hinges (Blum, Salice, Grass) with built-in soft-close are the standard in any cabinet built after about 2010. The retrofit is a one-for-one hinge swap on existing 35 mm hinge cups in the door — no new drilling required when the cabinet was built to European spec, which most modern cabinets are. Bare-metal exposed hinges (often seen on 1980s and 1990s kitchens) need a one-time bore for the 35 mm cup before the new hinge goes in. We assess on the booking call by asking for a photo of the inside of an open cabinet door.
Can you do cabinet pulls, bath accessories, smart lock, and doorbell all in one visit?
Yes — and this is the cheapest way to book it. A typical multi-area visit closes four to five item classes in three to four hours. Kitchen pulls plus master bath accessories plus a smart lock plus a wireless doorbell is one truck, one trip charge, one cleanup. Tell us every item on the booking call — including counts, finish, and any specifics like the cabinet pull pitch or the smart lock brand — and the truck shows up loaded for the full list.
What if I am missing screws, anchors, or a piece of the hardware?
We tell you on arrival before we install anything that is missing parts. The truck carries spare common-size fasteners, anchors, and a small bin of standard washers and shims, so a missing screw or anchor on a single fixture usually does not stop the work. A missing template, a missing trim ring, a missing strike plate, or a missing battery for a smart lock or doorbell will pause that item — we either route you to the manufacturer for a warranty part, install everything else on the list, or come back when the part arrives at no extra trip charge.
Is the work guaranteed?
Yes. Every Handis handyman is background-checked, insured, and on the hook for a 30-day workmanship guarantee. If a cabinet pull goes crooked, a towel bar pulls out, a smart lock binds in the strike plate, a doorbell loses Wi-Fi pairing, a soft-close damper fails because of how we installed it, or any hardware we installed becomes loose within 30 days because of our workmanship, we come back and fix it at no extra charge. The guarantee covers our installation — manufacturer defects on the hardware itself route to the brand's warranty (most smart locks and doorbells carry one to three year warranties).
Which sub-category should I book if my list crosses several of them?
Book under whichever single area has the most work — usually [Cabinet Knobs & Pulls](/services/handyman-and-home-repairs/hardware-and-accessory-swaps/cabinet-knobs-and-pulls) for kitchen-led visits or [Towel Bars, Hooks & Bath Accessories](/services/handyman-and-home-repairs/hardware-and-accessory-swaps/towel-bars-hooks-and-bath-accessories) for bath-led visits — and list every other area on the booking call. We schedule mixed-area visits as one appointment regardless of which sub-category was selected. The booking call decides the truck load-out, not the dropdown.

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