Deck Ledger Repair
The single most common cause of a residential deck collapsing is the ledger — the structural board that ties the deck to the house. The 2008-vintage cedar deck whose builder used framing nails instead of structural lag screws because nailed ledgers were faster and the inspector did not catch it. The 1998 pressure-treated deck whose ledger flashing was installed reversed so rainwater has been draining behind the siding into the rim joist for twenty-five years. The 2003 deck whose ledger has no flashing at all because the builder skipped it and counted on the siding caulk to hold. The honest call on every Seattle deck older than ten years is to inspect the ledger before you trust the deck — nailed ledgers are the single most cited failure mode in residential deck-collapse investigations. Deck ledger repair is the trade for catching that failure before the deck pulls away from the house — re-fasten old nailed ledgers with LedgerLOK or GRK structural lag screws to the current deck-code spacing, install Z-flashing or vinyl L-flashing so water sheds away from the rim, and cut out and replace rotted ledger sections with matched pressure-treated stock. From $1,200 for a re-fasten-and-flash visit on a sound ledger up to $4,500 for a partial cut-and-replace where a section of the ledger has rotted. Full ledger replacement requiring rim-joist work or an engineer's sign-off routes to a licensed Washington L&I general contractor with the engineer's fee passed through on the quote.
Service
What Does Deck Ledger Repair Include?
Deck ledger repair covers the structural tieoff where the deck meets the house — the ledger board itself, the fasteners that tie it to the rim joist, and the flashing above that keeps water out. We diagnose the existing attachment (nails versus lags versus through-bolts), inspect the flashing (missing, reversed, or properly installed), take moisture meter readings on the rim joist behind the ledger through the lag holes where reachable, re-fasten old nailed ledgers with LedgerLOK or GRK structural lag screws to the code-required pattern, install Z-flashing or vinyl L-flashing at the deck-to-house tieoff, and cut out and replace rotted ledger sections with matched pressure-treated stock. When the rim joist behind the ledger is compromised or the work requires an engineer's sign-off on a permit, we route the structural portion to a licensed Washington L&I general contractor and stay in the project for the finish carpentry after the structural work closes.
Diagnostic Inspection of the Existing Attachment
Every visit starts with an attachment inspection. We pull back any siding or flashing that obstructs the view of the top of the ledger, identify the fastener type (nails, lag screws, through-bolts), count the fasteners and measure the spacing, and check the engagement depth into the rim joist behind. The current residential deck code requires structural lag screws or through-bolts spaced to a calculated pattern based on the deck load — nailed ledgers do not meet this standard and have been the single most cited failure mode in residential deck-collapse investigations for two decades.
Flashing Inspection at the Deck-to-House Tieoff
The flashing above the ledger is what keeps rainwater from running behind the siding into the rim joist. Properly installed flashing is a Z-shape or vinyl L-shape that tucks behind the siding above the ledger, drapes over the top of the ledger, and projects forward to drip clear of the deck-to-house joint. Missing flashing (the builder skipped it), reversed flashing (the Z installed upside down so water drains behind), and corroded flashing (cheap aluminum that has pinholed through) all let water get behind the siding into the rim. We inspect from above (the visible tieoff) and where access allows from inside the wall.
Moisture Meter Readings on the Rim Joist
Where reachable through the lag holes or through a pulled siding section, we take moisture meter readings on the rim joist behind the ledger. A healthy rim joist reads 8 to 14 percent moisture. A rim joist that has been wicking water past failed flashing for years reads above 20 percent and is starting to lose structural integrity. The reading decides the scope — sound rim and we can re-fasten and re-flash from the outside; soft rim and the scope crosses into permit-required rim-joist replacement and routes to a licensed Washington L&I GC.
Re-Fasten with LedgerLOK or GRK Structural Lag Screws
Old nailed ledgers get the nails left in place (cutting them out compromises the existing connection during the transition) and new LedgerLOK or GRK structural lag screws driven through the ledger into the rim joist on the code-required spacing pattern. The lag size matches the ledger thickness and rim depth — typically 5/16 inch diameter, 4-1/2 to 6 inch length. The pattern follows the current code based on deck dimension and load (a single row staggered or a double row staggered). We pre-drill the ledger and rim per the manufacturer specification, drive each lag to the manufacturer torque, and document the install.
Install Z-Flashing or Vinyl L-Flashing at the Tieoff
Z-flashing (galvanized steel or copper bent in a Z-shape) or vinyl L-flashing tucks behind the siding above the ledger, drapes over the top of the ledger with adequate projection past the front face, and laps any inside or outside corners. Where the siding is cedar shake or board-and-batten, we pull the bottom course of siding to install behind it cleanly. Where the siding is vinyl or fiber-cement and the existing flashing is recoverable, we work with the existing flashing in place. New flashing seams get sealed with manufacturer-rated sealant; never duct tape, never silicone over the back side.
Rotted Ledger Section Cut-Out and Replacement
A ledger section that has rotted through the cross-section (the moisture meter reads above 25 percent and the awl pushes into the ledger from the front face) gets cut out and replaced. We support the deck temporarily with a column or a beam against the joists above, cut the failed section clean with a circular saw, install matched pressure-treated stock (typical 2x10 or 2x12 to match the existing), and fasten with LedgerLOK or GRK lags into solid rim joist on both ends of the new section. Where the rot extends across more than half the ledger length or the rim joist behind is also compromised, the scope crosses into permit-required GC work and we route accordingly.
How Deck Ledger Repair Works
Seven sequential steps from the attachment inspection through the flashing install, lag drive, and finish documentation — the sequence we follow on every deck ledger repair.
Diagnostic Inspection of the Existing Ledger Attachment
We pull back siding or flashing that obstructs the view of the top of the ledger, identify the fastener type (nails, lag screws, through-bolts), count and measure the existing fastener spacing, and check engagement into the rim joist. Nailed ledgers are the single most cited failure mode in residential deck-collapse investigations; we treat every nailed ledger as a structural priority.
Flashing Inspection at the Deck-to-House Tieoff
Visual check from above of the existing flashing. Missing, reversed, corroded, or improperly lapped flashing all let water get behind the siding into the rim joist. We document what is there and what is needed. Where the existing flashing is irreparable, we plan the pull-and-replace as part of the visit.
Moisture Meter Reading on the Rim Joist Behind the Ledger
Through the existing lag holes (or a pulled siding section where access requires) we take moisture meter readings on the rim joist. Healthy rim reads 8 to 14 percent; failing rim reads above 20 percent. The reading decides whether the visit stays a Handis re-fasten-and-flash or crosses into permit-required rim-joist replacement.
Source LedgerLOK or GRK Structural Lags and Z-Flashing to Spec
Structural lag screws sized to the ledger and rim depth (typical 5/16 diameter, 4-1/2 to 6 inch length), in the code-required spacing pattern. Z-flashing or vinyl L-flashing sized to the ledger profile. Manufacturer-rated sealant for flashing seams. All materials sourced before the visit so the work is one trip.
Drive LedgerLOK or GRK Lags into the Code-Required Pattern
Pre-drill the ledger and rim per manufacturer spec. Drive each lag to the manufacturer torque. Follow the current residential deck code spacing pattern based on deck dimension and load — single-row staggered or double-row staggered depending on the load calculation. Old nails left in place to maintain the existing connection during the transition.
Install Z-Flashing or Vinyl L-Flashing Above the Ledger
Pull the bottom course of siding where access requires (cedar shake, board-and-batten). Install the flashing properly oriented — tucks behind siding above, drapes over the ledger top, projects forward to drip clear. Seal seams with manufacturer-rated sealant. Re-install pulled siding clean.
Cut-Out and Replace Rotted Ledger Sections (Where Scope Allows)
For a rotted ledger section that meets the cut-and-replace threshold (rot under 50 percent of the ledger length, rim behind still sound), support the deck temporarily, cut the failed section clean, install matched pressure-treated stock, fasten with structural lags into solid rim on both ends. Larger rot or compromised rim routes to a licensed Washington L&I GC.
Deck Ledger Repair Pricing
Final pricing depends on the existing attachment condition, the flashing condition, the ledger length, whether siding has to be pulled for access, and whether the rim joist behind the ledger is sound or has crossed into permit-required replacement territory. Rim-joist replacement that requires an engineer's sign-off and a Washington L&I building permit routes to a licensed general contractor — that portion is quoted as a pass-through with the GC and engineer fees named line by line. Request a free estimate for an accurate quote.
Send us photos of the ledger from above (fasteners and flashing) and from inside the rim if you can — we will tell you whether it is a re-fasten visit or a permit-GC scope.
Why Handis for Deck Ledger Repair
The single most common residential deck-collapse failure mode in two decades of investigation is the nailed ledger. The builder used framing nails because they were faster and the inspector did not catch it. The flashing was installed reversed or skipped entirely because the builder counted on the siding caulk to hold. The rim joist behind has been quietly wicking water for fifteen years, the rot has propagated under the ledger from the back side, and one Saturday in August the deck pulls away from the house with twenty people on it. The current residential deck code has required structural lag screws and proper flashing since the early 2000s — but every Seattle deck built before that update, and most of the decks built by installers who never caught up, is at risk. The inspection takes 30 minutes. The re-fasten visit is $1,200. The post-collapse insurance call is six figures.
Ledger inspection before any deck repair scope
Every Seattle deck older than ten years gets a ledger inspection before any other repair scope is committed. We pull back siding or flashing that obstructs the view, identify the fastener type, count the existing fasteners, measure the spacing, and take moisture meter readings on the rim joist where reachable. A nailed ledger or compromised flashing changes the priority of every other repair on the deck — there is no point fixing surface boards on a deck that is one storm away from pulling off the house.
Structural lags to the current code spacing, not the original install
The current residential deck code requires structural lag screws or through-bolts at a calculated spacing based on deck load — typical single-row staggered or double-row staggered patterns sized to the deck dimension. We drive LedgerLOK or GRK structural lag screws (5/16 inch diameter, 4-1/2 to 6 inch length matched to the rim depth) on the current code pattern, regardless of what the original install used. Pre-drilled per manufacturer spec, driven to manufacturer torque, documented.
Z-flashing or vinyl L-flashing properly oriented and lapped
Flashing failure is the precondition for rim-joist rot. We install Z-flashing or vinyl L-flashing that tucks behind the siding above, drapes over the top of the ledger, and projects forward to drip clear of the deck-to-house joint. Inside and outside corners get properly lapped. Seams get manufacturer-rated sealant — never duct tape, never silicone over the back side. Where the existing siding is cedar shake or board-and-batten, we pull the bottom course for clean access and re-install after.
Honest rim-joist reading — sound rim or permit-GC scope
The reading on the rim joist behind the ledger decides whether the work is a Handis re-fasten visit or a permit-required structural rebuild. Sound rim (reading under 15 percent) and we re-fasten and re-flash from the outside. Soft rim (above 20 percent) and the deck-to-house connection has to come apart for rim-joist replacement — that work routes to a licensed Washington L&I GC with engineer-stamped drawings and a building permit. We name the GC and the engineer on the quote and return for the finish carpentry after.
Old nails left in place during the lag drive
Counter-intuitive but correct — we do not extract the old framing nails before driving the new structural lags. Pulling old nails disturbs the existing connection during the transition window when the deck is depending on partial fastening. The proper sequence is to leave the nails in, drive the new lags into solid rim on the code spacing, and let the new lags carry the load. The old nails ride along, no longer load-bearing but harmless. The only nails we cut are those visibly corroded enough to be a future risk.
Insured, background-checked, one-year project warranty
Handis carries general liability and workers' compensation; every technician has cleared a background screening before the first job. The re-fasten and flashing install carry a one-year project warranty — if a structural lag backs out, the flashing leaks at a seam, or a replaced ledger section shifts because of our installation, we come back and fix it at no extra charge. Pre-existing structural conditions (rim-joist rot beyond the visit scope, framing damage beyond the ledger, weather damage from an external event) are not workmanship issues. The licensed-GC and engineer portions on permit-required work carry their own Washington L&I-trade warranty, named on the quote.
Estimate
Tell us the deck age (build year if known), the visible fastener type at the ledger (nails, lag bolts, through-bolts, can't tell), the visible flashing situation (proper Z-flashing, missing, looks wrong, can't tell from above), the siding type at the deck-to-house tieoff (cedar shake, board-and-batten, vinyl, fiber-cement, stucco), and any visible signs of trouble (water stain on the rim below, rot at the ledger ends, siding damage above the ledger). Phone photos of the top of the ledger from above and the ledger from below with a flashlight are gold. We will tell you on the response whether the visit is a Handis re-fasten or whether the scope crosses into permit-required GC work.
Customer Reviews
Recent deck ledger repair reviews from verified Seattle-area customers.
2001 cedar deck off our Magnolia craftsman, original installer used framing nails at the ledger and no flashing at all. Handis pulled the bottom course of cedar siding, found the rim joist behind was still solid (moisture meter under 12 percent), drove 22 LedgerLOK lags on the current code spacing, installed proper Z-flashing along the full length, re-sided the cut-back area. Solid for three years since. Honest about the rim being OK — could have upsold easily.
1996 pressure-treated deck off our Bothell house. Ledger was rotted in a 5-foot section near the corner where the gutter above had been overflowing for years. Tech was honest that the rim behind the rotted section was at the threshold — we agreed to a partial cut-and-replace with rim inspection. Handis supported the deck temporarily, cut the rotted ledger section clean, installed new pressure-treated, drove new lags into solid rim on both ends, installed new flashing. Single working day.
Just the inspection visit on a deck we had just bought. Tech spent about 45 minutes pulling back siding sections and checking the ledger from above and below. Found the ledger was lagged (good) but the flashing was reversed (water draining behind the siding) and the rim joist read 18 percent moisture in two spots. Recommended a re-fasten-and-flash visit plus a watch-this-spot monitoring approach on the rim. Came back the next month to do the work.
Big scope on our 1989 deck. Rim joist behind the ledger had gone soft for about 8 feet on the south side — Handis was honest that this crossed into permit-required GC work, named a licensed Washington L&I GC, the GC came in with engineer-stamped drawings for the rim replacement, then Handis returned to install the new ledger, fresh flashing, and finish carpentry. Six weeks total. Coordinated cleanly between three trades.
Smaller scope on our 2010 deck — newer construction but the original flashing was a thin aluminum that had pinholed through and was leaking. Handis pulled and replaced the flashing with vinyl L-flashing matched to the ledger profile, re-set two lags that had backed out a quarter-inch, sealed the flashing seams with manufacturer-rated sealant. Three hours on site. No drama, no upsell.
Frequently Asked Questions
Common questions about Handis deck ledger repair — pricing, scope, structural code, flashing, and the GC handoff when rim work is involved.