Fence Removal

Fence removal is the residential trade that dismantles a wood or vinyl perimeter fence — boards or panels, top and bottom rails, posts, and the concrete footings underneath — and hauls the lumber sorted for recycling, from $600 for a 30-foot wood run with cut-at-grade footings to $2,000 for a 150-foot perimeter with concrete dig-outs and a gate. Cedar lumber sorted from pressure-treated at the dump trailer; vinyl panels recycled where the local stream accepts them. Concrete footings cut at grade by default — full dig-out is an upgrade and quoted per footing. Shared fence lines (the fence sits on the property line and the neighbor has skin in the game) get a coordination conversation on the booking call — we will not pull a shared fence without your neighbor's agreement.

Fence removal image — wide shot of a 60-foot cedar dog-ear fence mid-tear-down in a Seattle backyard, top rail off and a stack of boards on the lawn, three 4x4 posts cut at grade, a dump trailer staged on the driveway with cedar and PT lumber sorted in separate piles.

Service

What Does a Fence Removal Include?

A Handis fence removal is the full dismantle of a residential perimeter fence — boards or panels, top and bottom rails, posts, gate hardware, and concrete footings — from $600 for a 30-foot wood run with cut-at-grade footings to $2,000 for a 150-foot perimeter with multiple gates and concrete dig-outs. Cedar sorted from pressure-treated at the dump trailer (different transfer-station bins and tip fees). Vinyl panels routed to recycling where the local stream accepts them. Per-foot pricing applies on runs over 50 feet. Shared fence lines coordinated with the neighbor on the booking call before any work is scheduled.

Boards or Panels First

Wood boards (cedar dog-ear, board-on-board, shadowbox) pried off the rails one at a time with a flat bar. Vinyl panels lifted out of the post brackets in whole panels. Fasteners (screws or nails) extracted from the rails or punched through with a punch. Boards stacked on the lawn for sort and haul; vinyl panels stacked separately for the recycling stream.

Top and Bottom Rails

Rails (typically 2x4 cedar or PT, or vinyl horizontal cross-pieces) unscrewed from the posts. Rail brackets and rail joiners pulled. Lumber stacked by species. Vinyl rails go with the vinyl panels to recycling.

Posts and Concrete Footings

Posts (typically 4x4 cedar or PT, or vinyl over a steel insert) cut at grade with a reciprocating saw by default — the buried concrete footing cylinder stays in place. Full footing dig-out is an upgrade and adds about 30 to 45 minutes per footing depending on depth and soil. Cut-at-grade is usually the right call when a new fence is going in over the same line and the old footings can be re-used; dig-out is the right call when the line is moving, the area is going back to landscape, or the new fence design needs deeper footings.

Gate Hardware and Posts

Gate hinges, latches, drop rods, and post-mount hardware unscrewed and pulled. Gate posts often have larger footings (one cubic foot of concrete or more); we cut or dig per the same strategy as the line posts.

Shared Fence Lines

A shared fence sits on the property line and is jointly owned with the neighbor. We will not pull a shared fence without your neighbor's explicit agreement (written or verbal documented on the work order). On the booking call we ask about the line, who owns what, and whether the neighbor is in the loop. Where they are not, we pause until the conversation happens.

Lumber Sort, Haul, Site Sweep

Cedar and pressure-treated sorted separately at the dump trailer. Vinyl panels and rails to the recycling stream where the local transfer station accepts them. Concrete from dig-outs to a concrete-recycling transfer station. Site swept with a magnet sweeper for fasteners along the old fence line.

Photo of a fence removal mid-job in a Seattle backyard — about half the cedar boards lifted off the rails and stacked on the lawn, the top rail removed, two 4x4 posts cut at grade, a magnet sweeper leaned against the dump trailer with sorted lumber.
Process

How a Fence Removal Works

Six sequential steps from the shared-fence neighbor conversation through the site sweep — the actual sequence we follow on every Handis fence removal.

Pricing

Fence Removal Pricing

Final pricing depends on linear footage, fence height, material (wood vs vinyl), gate count, and the footing strategy (cut at grade vs dig-out). Shared fences require the neighbor's agreement before scheduling. Request a free estimate for an accurate quote.

Send the fence length, height, material, gate count, and whether the line is shared with a neighbor — we will quote the demo.

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Why Handis for Fence Removal
Trust

Why Handis for Fence Removal

Most fence removal calls have one easy variable (linear footage) and four harder ones (footing strategy, gate count, material, and whether the fence is shared with the neighbor). We learned the shared-fence question the hard way years ago — pulled a 90-foot shared fence on one homeowner's say-so and the neighbor came home to find their fence gone. Now we ask the question on the booking call every time and pause until both owners agree. The other three variables we quote off photos and a quick walk along the line.

Shared fences only with the neighbor's agreement

A shared fence sits on the property line and is jointly owned. We will not pull a shared fence on one owner's say-so — the neighbor has skin in the game and a legal interest. On the booking call we ask whether the fence is shared or solo; where it is shared we ask whether the neighbor is in the loop. Where they are not, the conversation happens before we schedule. Once both owners agree (verbal documented on the work order or a quick email), we proceed.

Footing strategy matches the next use of the line

Cut-at-grade leaves the buried concrete in place under the sod — right when a new fence is going in over the same line and the existing footings can be re-used, or when the line is going back to landscape with shallow plantings. Full dig-out removes the concrete cylinder and backfills with native soil — right when the line is moving to a new location, the area is going back to deep-root garden, or the new fence design needs different-depth footings. We pick the strategy on the booking call and price the dig-out per footing where it applies.

Lumber sorted by species at the dump trailer

Pressure-treated lumber and cedar go to different transfer-station bins with different tip fees. Vinyl panels and rails go to the recycling stream where the local transfer station accepts them. Salvageable boards in good condition (more common on solo fences taken down before they failed than on rotted shared fences) get staged for your projects per your direction. Treated-lumber tip fees pass through at cost.

Site swept with a magnet along the old fence line

Fence demo drops screws and nails into the soil along the old line — a hazard for lawn mowers, bare feet, and pet paws. We sweep the entire line with a long-handled magnet sweeper where the soil and turf allow, collect what comes up, and dispose with the metal-recycling stream. The line is fastener-free when we leave.

Insured, background-checked, 30-day workmanship guarantee

Every Handis demolition tech carries liability insurance and has cleared a background screening. The 30-day workmanship guarantee covers what we did to the site — a lawn divot from a footing dig-out that should have been properly backfilled, a damaged plant adjacent to the line that should have been protected, a missed fastener that the magnet sweep should have caught. Demolition damage to the fence itself is by design — that is the demo target.

Estimate

Tell us the linear footage, the fence height (4-foot, 6-foot, 8-foot), the material (cedar, PT, vinyl, chain-link), the gate count, whether the line is shared with a neighbor, and what is going in over the line after the demo (new fence, landscape, hardscape). We will quote the demo and the footing strategy.

Service cost estimate illustration
Reviews

Customer Reviews

Fence removal reviews from real Handis customers.

FAQ

Frequently Asked Questions

Common questions about fence removal — pricing, shared fences, footing strategy, lumber disposal, and the booking process.

How much does fence removal cost?
A standard wood fence under 30 feet (cedar dog-ear or board-on-board, 6-foot height, cut-at-grade footings) starts at $600 for a half-day visit. A 30 to 60 foot run runs about $950. A 60 to 100 foot run with up to one gate runs about $1,400. A 100 to 150 foot full-perimeter fence with multiple gates runs about $2,000. Vinyl fence up to 100 feet runs about $1,100. Full footing dig-out is $75 per footing on top of the base price. Gate removal adds $80 per gate. Runs over 150 feet add a $13 per linear foot surcharge for the portion above 150 feet. Shared fences require the neighbor's documented agreement before we schedule.
What is a shared fence and why does the neighbor need to agree?
A shared fence sits on the property line between two properties and is jointly owned by both adjacent owners under Washington's good-neighbor fence law and standard real estate practice. Both owners have a legal interest in the fence and decisions about it. We will not pull a shared fence on one owner's say-so — the neighbor has skin in the game. On the booking call we ask whether the fence is shared or solo. Where it is shared, we ask whether the neighbor is in the loop and the conversation has happened. Verbal agreement documented on the work order or a quick email both count. Where the conversation has not happened, we pause the booking until it does.
What is the difference between cut-at-grade and full dig-out for the posts?
Cut-at-grade is the default — we cut the 4x4 or 6x6 post at ground level with a reciprocating saw and leave the buried concrete footing cylinder in place under the sod. Cheaper, faster, and fine when a new fence is going in over the same line or the area is going back to shallow landscape. Full dig-out digs the concrete cylinder out of the ground (30 to 45 minutes per footing depending on depth and soil), hauls the concrete to a recycling transfer station, and backfills the hole with native soil. Right when the line is moving, the area is going back to deep-root garden, or the new fence design needs different-depth footings.
Can you remove a chain-link fence?
Yes — chain-link removal follows a similar process. Fabric pulled off the top and bottom rails and rolled for metal recycling. Rails unscrewed from the posts. Posts cut at grade or dug out per the booking-call decision (chain-link posts are often set in cement plugs that come out cleaner than wood-fence footings). All metal goes to the metal-recycling stream at the transfer station; tip fees are usually offset by metal-recycling credits, and we pass any credit through to the homeowner.
Will the lawn or landscape be damaged from the demo?
Some impact is expected — fence demo involves crew foot traffic along the line and lumber drops onto the lawn. We use drop cloths where carry paths cross planting beds, work with awareness of plants close to the line, sweep the entire line with a magnet for fasteners that hit the soil, and backfill footing dig-out holes with native soil. Lawn restoration on the actual line is your landscaper's scope; we hand over a swept, fastener-free, cleanly cut line.
Can you reuse or donate the fence lumber?
Most demolished fence lumber is not salvageable — boards have been weathered, warped, splintered, and screw-perforated for years. Where individual boards are in good condition (more common on solo fences taken down before they fully failed), we stage them on the property for your projects per your direction. Salvageable boards stay on-site, go to a friend or neighbor, or get listed on Buy Nothing groups. Vinyl panels in good condition rarely have a second-use market and usually go to recycling.
How long does the fence removal take?
Under 30 feet runs a half-day. 30 to 60 feet runs one day. 60 to 100 feet runs one to one-and-a-half days. 100 to 150 feet runs one-and-a-half to two days. Per-foot pricing on runs over 150 feet adds time proportionally. Full footing dig-out adds about 30 to 45 minutes per footing on top of the base time. Gate removal adds about 30 minutes per gate. Vinyl fences typically run about 20 percent faster than wood fences of equivalent length because the panels come off in whole units rather than board-by-board.
Do I need a permit to remove a fence?
Most residential fence removals in Seattle and the surrounding municipalities do NOT require a permit. Where the fence height exceeds the local zoning threshold or sits on a public-facing boundary with view-corridor restrictions, a permit may apply — but those are the exceptions. We do not pull permits ourselves; where a permit is required for a specific case, we will tell you on the booking call and the permitted removal routes to a licensed Washington L&I contractor.
What happens to the lumber after demo?
Sorted at the dump trailer by species — pressure-treated separate from cedar (different transfer-station bins and tip fees). Vinyl panels and rails to the recycling stream where the local transfer station accepts them. Chain-link metal to the metal-recycling stream (often with a credit back). Concrete from dig-outs to concrete-recycling. All hauled to a licensed King County or Snohomish County transfer station with a weight receipt for your records.
Can you remove an old fence and install a new one?
Handis is the removal trade, not the new fence install trade. We dismantle the old fence, cut or dig the footings per the booking-call strategy, sort and haul the lumber, and hand over a swept, fastener-free line. The new fence install is your fence contractor's scope (typically a fence company that specifies, sources, and builds the new run). We can coordinate the demo schedule directly with your fence contractor if you connect us — usually the demo runs one to three days before the new-build start.
Is the work guaranteed?
Yes. 30-day workmanship guarantee on what we did to the site — a lawn divot from a footing dig-out that should have been properly backfilled, a damaged plant adjacent to the line that should have been protected with a drop cloth, a missed fastener that the magnet sweep should have caught, a botched footing cut that left a hazardous concrete or wood stub above grade. Demolition damage to the fence itself is by design — that is the demo target.

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