Smoke & CO Detector Replacement

Handis smoke and CO detector replacement is the residential service that swaps battery-powered and 10-year sealed-lithium smoke and combination smoke/CO detectors per NFPA 72 placement — one on every level, one inside every bedroom, one outside every sleeping area, CO within 10 feet of every sleeping-area door — from $120 per unit to $350 for a six-unit whole-home swap. A smoke detector that chirps once a month for a year, gets the battery pulled, and never goes back up is one of the most common silent hazards in a house. Smoke detectors expire 10 years from the manufacture date stamped on the back; CO detectors expire at 5 to 7 years. We read the manufacture date on every existing detector before we leave. Hardwired interconnect systems on a new circuit are electrician work and route to a licensed Washington L&I contractor.

Smoke and CO detector replacement image — handyman installing a 10-year sealed-lithium combination smoke and CO detector on a hallway ceiling outside a bedroom door, with the old expired detector and its manufacture-date sticker visible on a step stool below.

Service

What Does Smoke and CO Detector Replacement Include?

Smoke and CO detector replacement is one service with two key activities — read the manufacture date on every existing unit (the small label on the back), then replace what is past due per NFPA 72. We carry battery-powered units, 10-year sealed-lithium units (set-and-forget for the decade), and combination smoke/CO units in the truck, and walk the house against the NFPA 72 minimum (one alarm per level, one inside every bedroom, one outside every sleeping area, CO within 10 feet of sleeping-area doors). Most homes have at least one missing location, typically a CO alarm outside a basement bedroom or a smoke alarm in the basement itself.

Single Detector Replacement

Battery or 10-year sealed-lithium, smoke-only or combination smoke/CO. We pull the old unit (read the manufacture date for the record), confirm the mounting base is in good shape (or swap it if not), and install the new unit. About 15 minutes per detector. For a single unit, the visit minimum applies.

Whole-Home Detector Audit and Swap

The standard service for any home over five years old. We walk the house, count detectors, read the manufacture date on every unit, identify any NFPA 72 placement gaps, and replace what is past due plus add what is missing. Most homes need 4 to 7 units total. The whole-home audit is 30 minutes, the swaps are 10 to 15 minutes per unit. About 90 minutes to 2 hours for a typical home.

Sealed-Lithium 10-Year Upgrade

The 2010s and 2020s update — sealed-lithium detectors have a non-replaceable battery rated for the 10-year service life of the detector itself. No more changing batteries twice a year, no more 3 a.m. chirps. At year 10 the entire unit gets replaced as a single piece. We default to sealed-lithium for new installs unless you specifically want battery-replaceable units (some homeowners prefer to be able to silence a false alarm by pulling the battery — sealed units have a hush button instead).

Combination Smoke / CO Units

A single unit that detects both smoke (photoelectric or dual-sensor) and carbon monoxide. NFPA 72 requires CO detection within 10 feet of every sleeping-area door, and a combination unit covers both requirements in one wall or ceiling location. The combo unit has a separate CO sensor that expires at 5 to 7 years (per the manufacturer), so the unit itself often gets replaced before the smoke side reaches its 10-year mark. We will tell you on install which sensor is the limiting factor.

Placement per NFPA 72

The full NFPA 72 minimum: one smoke alarm on every level of the home including the basement; one inside every bedroom; one outside every sleeping area (in a central hallway); CO alarms within 10 feet of every sleeping-area door. Mounting: ceiling at least 4 inches from the wall, or wall 4 to 12 inches from the ceiling — never in the dead-air corner where smoke does not circulate. Avoid placement within 10 feet of a cooking appliance (false alarms) or within 3 feet of a bathroom door (steam triggers). We walk the house with the NFPA 72 checklist in hand.

What We Do NOT Do

Hardwired interconnected detector systems on a new 120V circuit are licensed electrician work — that includes wiring a new detector loop, replacing a hardwired unit when the wire-nut connection has a problem, or interconnecting battery units with a hardwired backup. If your home has hardwired detectors and the issue is the wiring itself, we will route you to a licensed Washington L&I electrician. We do replace hardwired units one-for-one (same circuit, same wire-nut connection) when the install is straightforward, but we do not modify the wiring.

Photo of a smoke and CO detector swap in progress — handyman on a step stool removing an expired 2014 smoke detector from a bedroom ceiling, new 10-year sealed-lithium combination unit and packaging visible on the floor.
Process

How Detector Replacement Works

Six sequential steps from the manufacture-date audit to the test-button verification — the actual sequence we follow on every smoke and CO detector swap visit.

Pricing

Detector Replacement Pricing

Final pricing depends on unit count, unit type (battery vs sealed-lithium, smoke-only vs combo), and whether mounting bases need to be swapped. Hardwired systems route to a licensed electrician. Request a free estimate for an accurate quote.

How many detectors, what age — battery or 10-year sealed? We will audit and quote the visit.

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Why Homeowners Book Handis for Detector Work
Trust

Why Homeowners Book Handis for Detector Work

Detector replacement is the work that happens once a decade per unit, which is exactly long enough to forget. A house full of 10-year-old battery detectors is operating on borrowed time — the smoke sensor itself degrades, the chamber gets dust, the response time stretches. NFPA 72 sets the 10-year limit not as a manufacturer suggestion but as a code-driven hard ceiling based on sensor chemistry. After a few hundred audits across Seattle homes — older houses with detectors from the early 2010s, builder-grade installs from the 2000s where the wrong types are mounted in the wrong rooms, brand-new construction with hardwired units where someone has already pulled the battery from the backup — the pattern is the same. At least one detector is past due, at least one location is missing, and at least one combo unit was installed without anyone noticing the CO sensor has expired ahead of the smoke side.

Manufacture date read on every unit

The 10-year expiration is from the manufacture date, not the install date. A detector that was installed yesterday but manufactured in 2014 is already past due. We pull every unit, read the date on the back, and write it down. By the end of the visit you have a record of every detector age in your home and a clear picture of what was kept and what was replaced.

NFPA 72 placement, not just wherever it was

Most homes have at least one detector in the wrong location or one location with no detector. The most common gaps we find: no detector inside the bedroom (only in the hallway outside), no CO alarm outside the basement bedroom, no smoke alarm in the basement at all, a kitchen-adjacent detector inside the 10-foot false-alarm radius. We walk the house against the NFPA 72 minimum list and tell you what to fix. The placement audit is included in every whole-home visit.

Sealed-lithium 10-year as the default

The trade-off used to be — battery units (cheaper, replaceable batteries, false-alarm hush requires pulling the battery) vs hardwired (interconnected, no battery worry, electrician install). Sealed-lithium 10-year units split the difference: no battery to change, a button to hush a false alarm without disabling the unit, and a 10-year service life that matches the sensor chemistry. We default to sealed-lithium for new installs and recommend the upgrade on every swap unless you specifically prefer battery-replaceable.

Combo units when CO is required

NFPA 72 requires CO detection within 10 feet of every sleeping-area door. The two ways to comply are a separate CO detector at each location, or a combination smoke/CO unit that covers both. We default to combo units at sleeping-area locations because the wall or ceiling holds one unit instead of two and the install time is the same. The CO sensor inside a combo unit expires at 5 to 7 years (per the manufacturer); the whole combo unit typically gets replaced when the CO side reaches end of life rather than waiting for the smoke side.

Honest boundary — we do not touch hardwired wiring

If your home has hardwired interconnected detectors and the issue is the wiring (a unit that does not get power, a circuit that has been disconnected, a backup battery that does not hold), the wiring fix is electrician work. We will replace a hardwired unit one-for-one on the same circuit and same wire-nut connection when the connection is straightforward, but we will not pull new wire, add a new circuit, or modify the existing detector loop. We will tell you on the booking call and route you to a licensed Washington L&I electrician for the wiring portion.

Estimate

Tell us how many bedrooms the home has, how many levels (including basement), whether you have a gas furnace or attached garage (CO consideration), and whether the existing detectors are battery or hardwired. We will quote the audit and swap.

Service cost estimate illustration
Reviews

Customer Reviews

Smoke and CO detector replacement reviews from real Handis customers.

FAQ

Frequently Asked Questions

Common questions about smoke and CO detector replacement — NFPA 72 placement, battery vs sealed-lithium, and what routes to an electrician.

How much does detector replacement cost?
A single battery detector swap is $120. A single 10-year sealed-lithium unit is $140. A combination smoke/CO unit is $160. A three-unit whole-home swap is $250 (typical for a condo or apartment). A six-unit whole-home swap is $350 (typical for a single-family home). All-combo whole-home with six units is $420. An audit-only visit (manufacture-date check and NFPA 72 placement assessment with no swap) is $120. Mounting-base replacement (when the existing base is damaged or wrong brand) is $40 per unit. Multi-unit visits are cheaper per unit than booking individual swaps.
How do I know if my smoke detectors need replacing?
Check the manufacture date on the back of each unit. Per NFPA 72 (the National Fire Alarm Code), smoke detectors expire 10 years from the manufacture date — not from the install date. Combination smoke/CO units expire when the CO sensor expires, typically 5 to 7 years depending on the manufacturer. If the unit has no date stamp, or the date is more than 10 years old for smoke or 7 years for CO, it should be replaced. Pressing the test button only verifies the speaker and battery — it does not verify the sensor still works.
Where should smoke and CO detectors be installed?
NFPA 72 sets the minimum: one smoke alarm on every level of the home including the basement, one inside every bedroom, one outside every sleeping area (in a central hallway), and CO alarms within 10 feet of every sleeping-area door. Mounting: ceiling at least 4 inches from the wall, or wall 4 to 12 inches from the ceiling — never in the dead-air corner where smoke does not circulate. Avoid placement within 10 feet of a cooking appliance (false alarms from steam or browning food) or within 3 feet of a bathroom door (shower steam triggers). For homes with attached garages or fuel-burning appliances, CO detectors are required adjacent to those areas as well.
What is the difference between battery, sealed-lithium, and hardwired detectors?
Battery detectors run on a replaceable battery (typically 9V or AA) that needs changing once a year. Hush requires pulling the battery (which then often does not get put back). Sealed-lithium detectors have a non-replaceable lithium battery rated for the 10-year service life of the unit — no battery to change, hush button is built in. At year 10 the whole unit gets replaced. Hardwired detectors are powered by the home's 120V wiring with a battery backup; they are typically interconnected so when one detects smoke, all alarms sound. New construction in most jurisdictions requires hardwired interconnected units. Hardwired install and any new wiring is licensed electrician work.
Will you install hardwired detectors?
We replace existing hardwired units one-for-one on the same circuit and same wire-nut connection when the install is straightforward. We do not pull new wire, add a new detector circuit, modify the existing detector loop, or troubleshoot a hardwired unit that is not getting power. Those are licensed electrician scope per Washington L&I — we will route you to a licensed contractor. If your current home is all-battery and you want to upgrade to hardwired interconnected, that is electrician work; we can recommend the sealed-lithium upgrade as the handyman-scope alternative that gives you 10 years of set-and-forget operation.
How long does a typical detector swap take?
A single unit is about 15 minutes — pull the old one, read the date for the record, confirm the mounting base, and install the new unit. The whole-home audit is 30 minutes (walking every room with the NFPA 72 list). A three-unit small swap is about 50 minutes including the audit. A six-unit whole-home is 90 minutes to 2 hours including the audit, the swaps, and any base replacements. The visit minimum applies to single-unit jobs; multi-unit swaps are cheaper per unit.
Do you handle combination smoke / CO units?
Yes. NFPA 72 requires CO detection within 10 feet of every sleeping-area door. A combination smoke/CO unit covers both requirements in a single wall or ceiling location, which is cleaner than mounting two separate units. The combo unit has a separate CO sensor that expires at 5 to 7 years (per the manufacturer), so the unit itself often gets replaced before the smoke side reaches its 10-year mark. We default to combo units at sleeping-area locations and will tell you which sensor will be the limiting factor on the unit you choose.
What about kitchens and bathrooms — should there be a detector there?
Inside a kitchen or directly adjacent (within 10 feet of a stove or oven), the answer is no — false alarms from cooking will eventually train you to disable the detector, which is worse than not having one. NFPA 72 recommends placing the nearest detector at least 10 feet from a cooking appliance, or using a photoelectric-only detector (less prone to cooking false alarms than ionization) if the layout forces a closer placement. Inside a bathroom, the answer is also no — steam triggers smoke detectors. The detector for that floor should be in the hallway outside the bath, at least 3 feet from the bath door.
How often should I test detectors and change batteries?
For battery detectors, change the battery once a year and press the test button monthly. The traditional cue is the daylight-saving-time clock change in spring and fall — change all batteries at the same time. For sealed-lithium 10-year units, press the test button monthly; no battery change for 10 years. Either way, replace the unit itself based on the manufacture date — 10 years for smoke-only, 5 to 7 for combination smoke/CO based on the CO sensor.
Can you add a detector where there is none currently?
Yes, for battery and sealed-lithium units. We will mount a new detector at any location that meets NFPA 72 placement guidelines — wall or ceiling, away from cooking and steam zones. Most homes have at least one missing location (commonly the basement, or a CO alarm outside a basement bedroom). For a hardwired addition that requires new wiring on the detector circuit, that is electrician scope. Battery and sealed-lithium adds are part of our standard service.
Is the work guaranteed?
Yes. 30-day workmanship guarantee on every detector we install. If a unit falls, the mounting base loosens, the unit malfunctions out of the box, or the placement does not match NFPA 72, we come back and fix it at no charge. The guarantee covers our installation — it does not cover a detector that has reached its service life (10 years for smoke, 5 to 7 for CO) and is replaced under warranty by the manufacturer, or a sealed-lithium battery that fails internally (also a manufacturer warranty issue). We will guide you through the manufacturer warranty process if either happens.

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