Exhaust Fan Replacement (existing circuit)

Confirm like-for-like scope from a phone photo before the truck rolls

Most bath fan replacements qualify as like-for-like — the existing 120V circuit, the existing fan housing or rough opening, and the existing venting run accept a modern Panasonic WhisperCeiling or equivalent drop-in. The few that do not (a new circuit needed because the existing fan was on the wrong shared circuit, a new venting run because the existing duct dead-ends in the attic instead of running to the soffit or roof, a structural framing change to enlarge the ceiling opening) are flagged on the booking call. The electrician sub or the venting installer is named on the quote before the work begins.

Verify dead with a tester — bath fan circuits are sneaky

Bathroom fans sometimes share a circuit with the vanity light, the receptacle, or even the closet light next door. The labeled breaker is right most of the time and wrong some of the time. We shut off the breaker we think feeds the fan, then verify dead at the fan junction with a Klein non-contact voltage tester before any wires are touched. Five seconds of verification prevents the only electrical accident that ever happens on a bath-fan swap.

Flow test against 50 CFM minimum on every install

Seattle residential bathroom code requires 50 CFM minimum continuous exhaust capacity for a standard bath; larger baths and master baths need 80 to 110 CFM. We close every install with an anemometer flow test at the grille face to verify the new fan is actually pulling its rated CFM through the existing duct. A fan rated 100 CFM on the box can deliver 40 CFM in real life if the duct is undersized, crushed, or full of decade-old lint. Anything below the code minimum flags a duct cleanout or duct upgrade as a recommended next step.

Duct cleanout, duct transition, ceiling caulk seal as part of the visit

A 4-inch fan on a 3-inch duct chokes the flow rate by about 30 to 40 percent. A duct full of lint and dust loses another 20 to 30 percent. A fan housing not sealed against the ceiling opening leaks conditioned air into the attic year-round. We clean the duct opening at the fan body, install a 3-inch to 4-inch transition when needed ($80 add-on), and caulk the grille-to-ceiling seam with 100 percent silicone. Standard scope on every install.

Honest electrician and venting handoff on anything new

Anything beyond a like-for-like swap on the existing circuit and existing venting routes to the appropriate licensed trade. A new circuit run from the breaker panel routes to a licensed Washington L&I electrician. A new venting run from the fan to the soffit or roof, a new roof cap install, or structural attic work routes to a Handis carpenter and a roofer for the roof penetration. We name the sub on the quote and coordinate the schedule.

Insured, background-checked, 30-day workmanship guarantee

Every Handis tech carries liability insurance and has cleared a background screening. 30-day workmanship guarantee — if the fan rattles, buzzes, or fails to spin within 30 days because of our install, if the duct connection comes loose, if the grille shifts or the ceiling seal cracks, we come back and fix it at no extra charge. The guarantee covers our install — it does not cover the new fan motor failing months later (manufacturer warranty), a duct that crushes in the attic six months later for reasons outside our visit, or someone painting over the grille and seizing the motor.