Deck Inspection & Safety Check

The 1989 deck on a house you just bought that the home inspector flagged with a single line — "deck shows signs of age, recommend further evaluation". The 2003 cedar deck on the house you are about to list whose pre-listing inspection has the agent worried. The deck after the windstorm in January where you can hear the rail wobble in a way you do not remember. The 1996 pressure-treated deck where you have suspected for two summers that the joist hangers might be failing but you cannot tell from above and you have not been brave enough to crawl underneath. Deck inspection and safety check is the diagnostic visit before any committed repair scope — full structural walk from above and below, awl and moisture meter on every accessible joist, ledger fastener and flashing inspection, joist-hanger check from below for rust-through, board and rail probe with end-grain rot check at every cut end, hand-shake test on every rail and post, code-compliance check against current residential deck code, and a written punch list with dated photos and recommended repair sequence. From $250 for a standard residential single-tier deck inspection up to $600 for a large multi-tier deck with full under-deck access and a complete code-compliance writeup. The inspection is the honest first step on every deck repair project — we tell you what stage your deck is actually in before any decision about scope, budget, or timeline.

Deck inspection image — Handis technician under a Seattle deck with a headlamp and a Tramex moisture meter pressed against a joist hanger, an awl probe in the other hand checking the rim joist, a clipboard with a written punch list visible on a tarp on the ground below.

Service

What Does Deck Inspection & Safety Check Include?

Deck inspection and safety check is a single diagnostic visit covering every layer of the deck — structural, safety, and surface. No repair work is performed on the visit (unless a small honest scope is logged and the homeowner approves it on the spot — say, a single popped fastener that takes a moment to drive back in). We arrive with a moisture meter, an awl, a headlamp, a clipboard, and a camera. We walk the deck from above, crawl underneath where access allows, inspect the ledger from above and below, probe every accessible joist, check every joist hanger, hand-shake every rail and post, check end-grain at every cut end, and deliver a written punch list with dated photos and a recommended repair sequence with rough labor budgets. The inspection is the honest first step on any deck repair project — most homeowners book the inspection visit, then schedule the actual repair work based on the punch list findings.

Ledger Fastener and Flashing Inspection

The ledger is the single most important board on the deck — the structural tieoff to the house. The single most cited cause of residential deck collapses for two decades is a failed nailed ledger. We inspect the ledger from above (pull back siding where access requires it), identify the fastener type (nails versus lag screws versus through-bolts), count the fasteners and measure the spacing, inspect the flashing condition (missing, reversed, properly installed), and take moisture meter readings on the rim joist behind the ledger through the lag holes where reachable.

Joist-by-Joist Awl Probe and Moisture Meter

Every accessible joist gets an awl probe along its full length and a moisture meter reading at the ledger end, mid-span, and rim end. From above (when boards allow access through the gaps) and from below (when the under-deck access is open enough to crawl). Healthy joists read 8 to 14 percent moisture and bounce the awl. Failing joists read above 20 percent at the rim, are soft to the awl, and dark at the failed end. We map the failures on the punch list — rim-end, hanger-zone, or mid-span over chronic-moisture spots.

Joist Hanger Check from Below

Every visible joist hanger gets a visual check from below for rust-through, back-out, and joist-to-hanger separation. The hangers in most pre-2010 Seattle decks are standard galvanized and rust through in 5 to 10 years on ACQ-treated pressure-treated lumber (the post-2004 standard, significantly more corrosive than the old chromated copper arsenate stuff). We document failed hangers with photos and recommend ZMAX or stainless replacement on the punch list. Hanger replacement itself is in the joist and substructure repair scope and gets quoted separately.

Board Awl Probe and End-Grain Rot Check

Every field bay on the deck gets an awl probe through the board gap on at least three boards per bay (concentrated on suspicious areas — soft underfoot, visible staining, near rail posts and stair stringers). Every cut end on the deck — board ends, stair tread ends, picture-frame mitres, post tops — gets a visual and awl check for end-grain rot. Soft ends and small rot areas are flagged for borate treatment or board replacement on the punch list.

Railing Hand-Shake and Code-Compliance Check

Every rail post and every rail section gets a hand-shake test. Loose connections logged. Baluster spacing checked against the current four-inch sphere code (where a four-inch sphere must not pass through any opening in a residential rail). Rail height measured against the current code (36 inches residential, 42 inches for raised decks above 30 inches off grade). Post bracing and rail-to-post fastener integrity checked. Documentation of what passes current code and what is grandfathered as-built.

Written Punch List with Dated Photos and Repair Sequence

The deliverable is a written punch list emailed within 24 to 48 hours of the inspection visit. Every finding documented with a dated photo, a severity rating (urgent / recommend / informational), a recommended scope (re-fasten, sister-up, hanger replacement, board replacement, ledger work, rail work, full inspection-permit-GC escalation), and a rough labor budget for the recommended scope. The homeowner can use the punch list to schedule the work with Handis, to shop competitive bids, to submit to an insurance carrier, or to attach to a real estate listing.

Editorial photo of a Handis deck inspection in progress — technician under a Seattle deck with a headlamp shining on a joist hanger, a Tramex moisture meter in one hand pressed against the rim joist, an awl in the other hand probing the wood, a clipboard with the punch list and a roll of stainless screws on a tarp on the ground below.
Process

How Deck Inspection & Safety Check Works

Seven sequential steps from the on-arrival walk through the ledger inspection, joist probe, hanger check, board and rail check, and the written punch list delivery — the sequence we follow on every deck inspection visit.

Pricing

Deck Inspection & Safety Check Pricing

Final pricing depends on deck square footage, the number of tiers (single-tier, two-tier, multi-tier), the under-deck access (open and crawlable versus crawlspace-tight versus inaccessible), and whether a full code-compliance writeup is in scope. The inspection visit does not include any repair work; recommended repairs are quoted separately based on the punch list findings. Request a free estimate for an accurate quote.

Tell us the deck age and the layout — we will quote the inspection and tell you when the punch list lands.

Call us
Why Handis for Deck Inspection & Safety Check
Trust

Why Handis for Deck Inspection & Safety Check

The honest first step on any deck repair project is the inspection. Most homeowners who call us with "we want to stain the deck" or "we want to replace some boards" or "we are thinking about a composite resurface" actually need the inspection first — because the staining will not solve the wobbly rail, the board replacement will not solve the failing joist underneath, and the composite resurface only makes sense over a sound frame. The inspection is $250 for a standard single-tier deck and produces a written punch list the homeowner can use to schedule the right scope at the right time. We do not push you into the inspection if you genuinely just need a stain coat on a known-sound deck — we will tell you on the phone whether the inspection is the right next step or not. But for any deck older than ten years, any deck whose ledger or framing has never been inspected, and any deck that has wobbled or flexed in ways the homeowner cannot explain, the inspection is the cheapest way to avoid an expensive surprise.

Full structural walk from above and below

The inspection is not a 10-minute walkaround — it is a 60-to-90-minute deep dive. We walk the deck from above with an awl and a moisture meter, crawl underneath with a headlamp where access allows, inspect the ledger from above and below, probe every accessible joist, check every visible joist hanger, hand-shake every rail and post, and check every cut end for rot. The full inspection takes time because the failures we care about — failed ledgers, rotting joists, rusted hangers, soft end-grain — are invisible from a casual walk and have to be found by deliberate probing.

Ledger and rim-joist get the most attention

The ledger is the single most cited cause of residential deck collapses for two decades. Every inspection visit prioritizes the ledger inspection — fastener type identification, flashing condition, rim-joist moisture reading. A nailed ledger or compromised flashing changes the priority of every other repair on the deck; there is no point fixing surface boards on a deck that is one storm away from pulling off the house. We document the ledger condition with photos and call out the urgency on the punch list.

Joist hanger check from below — the failure mode no one sees

Standard galvanized joist hangers on ACQ-treated pressure-treated lumber (the post-2004 standard, significantly more corrosive than the old chromated copper arsenate stuff) rust through in 5 to 10 years. Most pre-2010 Seattle decks have the wrong hardware grade and the hangers are failing quietly under the deck where the homeowner never looks. We crawl underneath with a headlamp where access allows and check every visible hanger. Failed hangers are documented with photos and recommended for ZMAX replacement on the punch list.

Code-compliance walkthrough on grandfathered rails

Decks built before the mid-1990s often have horizontal-grid rails or wide-baluster spacing that does not meet the current four-inch sphere code. These are usually grandfathered as-built but routinely come up at pre-listing inspections and become real safety concerns in households with small children. We document what passes current residential code (rail height, baluster spacing, post bracing) and what is grandfathered, with photos. The walkthrough is informational — useful when the home goes on the market or an insurance inspector flags the rail.

Written punch list with photos, severity, and budget within 48 hours

The deliverable is the punch list — every finding documented with a dated photo, a severity rating (urgent / recommend / informational), a recommended scope, and a rough labor budget. Emailed within 24 to 48 hours of the visit. The punch list is yours to use however you want — schedule the work with Handis, shop competitive bids based on the scope, submit to an insurance carrier, attach to a real estate listing. The inspection report is not gated behind a follow-up sales call.

Insured, background-checked, no repair upsell pressure

Handis carries general liability and workers' compensation; every technician has cleared a background screening before the first job. The inspection visit is a flat-fee diagnostic; we do not bill any small fix-it work done during the visit unless explicitly approved by the homeowner. We do not upsell repair scope during the visit — the punch list goes to you in writing and the decision about what to repair, when, and with whom is yours. We are happy to bid the repair work as a separate scope, but the inspection report stands on its own.

Estimate

Tell us the deck age (build year if known), the size in square feet, the number of tiers, the height off grade, the board material (cedar, pressure-treated, composite, hardwood), the under-deck access (open and crawlable, crawlspace-tight, fully enclosed), and what prompted the inspection (pre-purchase, pre-listing, insurance inspection, post-windstorm, suspected joist or ledger failure, general concern). We will quote the inspection and tell you when the punch list will land in your inbox.

Service cost estimate illustration
Reviews

Customer Reviews

Recent deck inspection and safety check reviews from verified Seattle-area customers.

FAQ

Frequently Asked Questions

Common questions about Handis deck inspection and safety check — pricing, scope, what is documented, and how the punch list is used.

How much does a deck inspection cost?
A standard single-tier deck inspection (up to 300 sq ft) is $250. A medium single-tier deck (300-500 sq ft) is $350. A two-tier deck (combined under 600 sq ft) is $425. A pre-purchase inspection with full writeup is $450. A pre-listing inspection with photo report is $425. An insurance inspection with carrier-ready documentation is $450. A large multi-tier deck inspection (600+ sq ft, multiple levels) is $550. A full code-compliance writeup on a large multi-tier deck is $600. The inspection visit does not include any repair work; recommended repairs are quoted separately based on the punch list findings.
What is included in the inspection?
Full structural and safety walk on the deck — ledger fastener type and flashing inspection (the single most cited cause of residential deck collapses), rim-joist moisture reading through the lag holes where reachable, joist-by-joist awl probe and moisture meter check on every accessible joist from above and below, joist-hanger visual check from below for rust-through and back-out, board awl probe at every field bay with moisture readings on suspicious areas, end-grain rot check at every cut end (board ends, stair tread ends, picture-frame mitres, post tops), railing hand-shake test on every post and rail section with current-code compliance check, hardware inventory, and a written punch list with dated photos and recommended repair sequence within 24 to 48 hours.
How long does the inspection take?
A standard single-tier deck inspection takes 60 to 90 minutes on site. A medium deck takes 90 minutes to 2 hours. A two-tier deck takes 2 to 2.5 hours. A large multi-tier deck takes 2.5 to 4 hours. The written punch list is delivered via email within 24 to 48 hours of the visit. The total turnaround from booking to inspection-on-site is typically 7 to 10 business days; rush bookings for pre-purchase or insurance deadlines are possible at a small premium when scheduling allows.
Do you do any repair work during the inspection visit?
Generally no — the inspection visit is a flat-fee diagnostic and we do not perform repair work during it. If we find a small honest scope that takes a moment and you approve it on the spot (a single popped fastener that takes a minute to drive back in, a loose baluster screw that costs nothing to tighten), we will do it as a courtesy. Larger work always gets quoted separately and scheduled after the punch list lands. We do not upsell during the visit and we do not pressure you into committing to any repair scope before you have had time to review the written report.
What does the written punch list look like?
A formatted PDF emailed within 24 to 48 hours of the visit. Each finding is documented with a dated photo, a severity rating (urgent — requires immediate attention; recommend — should be addressed within the next season; informational — note for future planning), a recommended scope (re-fasten, sister-up, hanger replacement, board replacement, ledger work, rail work, full inspection-permit-GC escalation), and a rough labor budget range. The punch list also includes an overall assessment of the deck condition, a recommended repair sequence (what to do first, what can wait), and any items that route to a licensed Washington L&I GC for permit-required scope.
Can I use the inspection report for a pre-purchase or insurance claim?
Yes. The pre-purchase inspection package ($450) and the insurance inspection package ($450) are formatted specifically for those uses — the pre-purchase report is formatted for buyer-side disclosure and includes recommended repair sequence with budget ranges; the insurance report is formatted for carrier underwriting with deck age estimate and remaining-life estimate. The standard inspection ($250) is suitable for owner-initiated diagnosis but does not include the formatting customizations for pre-purchase or insurance use. Tell us on the booking call which use case you have and we will quote the right package.
What if the inspection finds something urgent?
We tell you on the visit — we do not wait for the written report to surface urgent findings. An active structural risk (a failing ledger, a deck pulling away from the house, a post collapsing) gets called out on the spot with a recommendation to flag the deck off until the issue is addressed. Non-urgent but significant findings (a rotting joist that has months left before it becomes urgent, a hanger that is rusting but holding) get documented in the report with a severity rating but do not require immediate action. We will not understate an urgent finding to soften the report.
Do I have to hire Handis to do the repair work after the inspection?
No — the inspection report is yours to use however you want. We are happy to quote the repair scope as a follow-up project and most homeowners do hire us for the work because the inspection visit has established the trust and the scope is already documented. But you are free to shop competitive bids based on the punch list, hire a different contractor, do some of the work yourself, or defer the scope. The inspection fee is the inspection fee; there is no "free with repair work" gimmick and no upsell pressure during the report delivery.
How do I know if I need an inspection or can just skip to the repair?
Tell us on the booking call what you know about the deck. If you have specific symptoms (a single soft board, a known wobbly rail, a leaking flashing) and the deck is otherwise in known good condition, you can skip the inspection and go straight to the targeted repair scope — we will diagnose on the spot as part of the repair visit. If the deck is older than ten years, has never been inspected, has wobbled or flexed in ways you cannot explain, or you are buying/selling/insuring a house with a deck of unknown condition, the inspection is the cheapest way to avoid an expensive surprise. We will tell you honestly on the phone which path fits your situation.
Do you cover homes outside Seattle proper?
Yes — most of the Puget Sound region is in service area, from north Seattle and Shoreline through Bellevue, Redmond, Kirkland, Issaquah, Sammamish, Renton, Tukwila, Burien, and south to Federal Way and Auburn. Deck inspection calls on the I-90 corridor (North Bend, Snoqualmie, Cle Elum) and Hood Canal property are covered with a travel premium added to the visit price; we will name it on the quote before you sign. Outside that radius we will tell you on the call if the math works.
Is the inspection report guaranteed?
Yes — the inspection report carries a 90-day finding guarantee. If a structural failure surfaces inside 90 days of the inspection at a location we explicitly documented as sound (a joist we read as healthy goes soft and fails, a hanger we documented as intact rusts through, a ledger we cleared starts to pull away), we credit the cost of the inspection toward the structural repair scope and re-inspect the related area at no additional cost. Findings we surfaced and the homeowner deferred are not covered (the report flagged it; the homeowner had the information). Weather damage from a major event after the inspection (a windstorm, a falling tree) and homeowner-caused damage are not covered. Handis carries general liability and workers' compensation throughout.

Learn More and Reach Out

For each of our clients

Contact information
Our Business Hours
Monday:09:00 - 21:00
Tuesday:09:00 - 21:00
Wednesday:09:00 - 21:00
Thursday:09:00 - 21:00
Friday:09:00 - 21:00
Saturday:09:00 - 21:00
Sunday:Closed

Write Us!

We will respond to your request as soon as possible