Deck Stairs & Landings
Deck stairs and landings is the Handis carpentry that connects a raised deck to a sloped yard, a side stair that links the deck to a walkway, or an intermediate landing that breaks a long flight on a steep grade — pressure-treated stringers cut to International Building Code residential stair geometry (7-inch rise max, 11-inch tread min, equal-rise within 3/8 inch throughout the run), cedar or composite treads and risers matched to the deck, a code-compliant 36-inch guard with 4-inch sphere baluster rule per the International Residential Code, and a graspable handrail where the stair has four or more risers. Two to five working days, from $2,000 for a basic 4-step stair with a single landing to $7,000 for a full double-stair with intermediate landing, matching guard, and integrated bench at the landing. Stairs are pure Handis carpentry — no plumber, no electrician, no permit unless the stair rise is over 30 inches and the local jurisdiction requires one (Seattle DCI typically does on a new stair, even where the original deck did not have one). We quote the permit on the estimate visit if it applies and pull it ourselves as the general contractor on the carpentry.
Service
What Deck Stairs & Landings Covers
Deck stairs and landings is the structural carpentry that gets you down from a raised deck to a yard, a walkway, or a side gate — built to the International Building Code residential stair geometry, the residential guard requirement, and the graspable handrail standard. Stairs that do not meet code do not pass inspection, and a stair built to the wrong geometry (rise that varies, tread that is too narrow, guard too low) is a real-world tripping and fall hazard the homeowner lives with for the life of the deck. Handis builds to code first, then matches the materials and style to the deck above. The build is pure carpentry; the only optional sub-trade handoff is for a stair light fixture or low-voltage step lighting (low-voltage we self-perform under the NEC landscape lighting exemption; a new 120V circuit for a stair light routes to a licensed Washington L&I electrician).
Stringer Layout and Cut to Code Geometry
Stair stringers are cut from pressure-treated 2x12 lumber, calculated to land an equal-rise per step across the total run (the total deck-to-grade height divided into equal-rise steps within the 7-inch maximum). Tread depth is 11 inches minimum per the residential stair section (residential typically 10 inches; we build to 11 inches for comfort), and the equal-rise tolerance is plus-or-minus 3/8 inch across the entire stair (the code threshold; we typically hold to 1/8 inch). Stringers are spaced at 12 inches on center for cedar tread or 16 inches on center for composite tread (composite is denser and spans further without deflection). We layout the stringer cut on the framing-square method, then double-check with a stair-master gauge before cutting.
Tread + Riser Install
Treads in cedar (matching a cedar deck) or composite (matching a Trex / TimberTech / AZEK / Fiberon deck) installed on the stringer with rust-resistant exterior screws (stainless or hot-dip galvanized) — never plain steel that streaks. Riser boards (the vertical face of each step) installed in matching material or in pressure-treated with a paint finish if the homeowner prefers a darker color contrast. Front edge of every tread gets a 1/4-inch round-over for comfort. Tread overhang at the riser is 1 inch (a code minimum; we typically hold at 1 to 1-1/4 inches).
Intermediate Landings
Landings are required by the building code every 12 feet of stair rise — typically a 4-foot-square landing on concrete piers or post-supported framing that gives a flat resting surface and a natural turn point for the stair direction. Landings are framed in pressure-treated 2x6 or 2x8 lumber on hot-dip galvanized Simpson Strong-Tie joist hangers, sheeted with the same tread material as the stairs, and have the same guard and handrail as the rest of the run. Landings are an opportunity for a small built-in bench (a popular add-on, $500 to $900 extra) that gives a perch on the way down.
Guard, Baluster, Handrail to Residential Code
The 36-inch residential guard runs along every open side of the stair where the drop is 30 inches or more, with balusters spaced at 4 inches on center or less so a 4-inch sphere cannot pass through (the small-child safety rule per the residential code). Cedar 2x2 balusters at 4-inch spacing on cedar decks, matching composite or aluminum balusters on composite decks. A graspable handrail (1-1/4 to 2-inch grasp cross-section per the residential handrail standard) runs the full length of any stair with four or more risers, terminating at the wall or at a graspable cap.
Permits and Inspection Where Required
Stairs with a total rise of 30 inches or more typically require a permit from Seattle DCI or your local building department. Handis pulls the carpentry permit as the general contractor (Seattle issues a building permit for the carpentry work on a residential stair; the licensed-trade permits only apply if we add electrical), schedules the inspection, and provides the permit copy at project close. Stairs under 30 inches of rise (typically a 4-step stair off a low deck) do not require a permit. We confirm permit applicability on the estimate visit.
How the Stair-and-Landing Build Works
Five sequential phases from layout to inspection — the actual sequence we run on every stair-and-landing project, building to the International Building Code residential stair geometry and the International Residential Code guard requirements.
Estimate Visit + Geometry Layout + Permit Determination
On the estimate visit we measure the deck-to-grade rise, calculate the total stair run, lay out the equal-rise step count (7-inch maximum per the residential stair code — typically 6 or 7 steps for a standard raised deck), confirm tread depth (11-inch minimum, typically 10 to 11 inches), confirm whether an intermediate landing is required by total rise or by preference, confirm the tread material (cedar or composite to match the deck), and determine whether a permit applies (typically yes for a stair over 30 inches of total rise).
Stringer Layout + Cut + Dry-Fit
Pressure-treated 2x12 stringers cut on the framing-square layout method, double-checked against a stair-master gauge, dry-fit against the deck rim joist and the grade landing point. Equal-rise is verified within 1/8 inch across the entire stair (the code threshold is 3/8 inch; we hold tighter). Stringers spaced at 12-inch on center for cedar tread or 16-inch on center for composite tread. Hot-dip galvanized Simpson Strong-Tie hangers attach the stringers to the deck. Day 1.
Landing Framing + Pier or Post Support
If the stair requires an intermediate landing (every 12 feet of rise per the building code, plus any direction-change point), the landing is framed in pressure-treated 2x6 or 2x8 lumber, supported by concrete pier footings or by 4x4 post framing tied into a footing. Landing sheeted with the same tread material as the stairs. Day 1 to 2.
Tread + Riser Install + Guard + Handrail
Treads and risers installed on the stringers with stainless or hot-dip galvanized exterior screws (never plain steel that streaks). Front edge of every tread gets a 1/4-inch round-over for comfort. Code-compliant 36-inch guard installed along every open side where the drop is 30 inches or more, with balusters at 4-inch spacing (the 4-inch sphere rule per the residential guard code). Graspable handrail (1-1/4 to 2-inch cross-section per the residential handrail standard) installed full length of any stair with four or more risers. Days 2 to 4.
Inspection + Final Walk-Through + Hand-Off
For stairs requiring a permit, Seattle DCI inspector or local inspector confirms the residential stair geometry, the residential guard, and the residential handrail. We meet the inspector on site, get the green tag, and hand the permit copy to you at project close. Final walk-through verifies tread fastener integrity, guard plumb, and handrail graspability. Day 4 to 5 including any inspection scheduling buffer.
Deck Stairs & Landings Pricing
Final pricing depends on the stair run length (number of risers), the tread material (cedar matches a cedar deck, composite matches a composite deck), whether an intermediate landing is required, and whether the stair requires a permit (typically yes for over 30 inches of total rise). Pure Handis carpentry — no licensed-sub fees unless you add a stair light circuit, which routes to a licensed electrician. Request a free in-home estimate for an accurate quote.
Tell us the deck and the grade — we will quote the stair to code with the right number of risers and the right tread for your deck.
Why Homeowners Book Handis for Deck Stairs & Landings
A deck stair is one of the most failure-prone parts of a residential deck — the failure modes are everywhere. Risers that vary by 3/4 inch across the run so people trip on the last step every time. A 36-inch guard installed at 32 inches because the contractor measured wrong and shipped anyway. Balusters spaced at 5 inches when the code says 4 — a toddler can get a head through that gap. A handrail that is too thick to grasp (a 2x4 used as a handrail is uncomfortable and not code-compliant). Plain steel screws that streak rust into a cedar tread within a year. A landing with no inspection that does not hold its weight when a piano-mover crew tries to carry a 600-pound dresser across it. None of these are exotic mistakes — they are the production-rate shortcuts of crews who never learned the code. Handis builds stairs to the residential stair code and the residential guard standard first, then matches the material to the deck. Equal-rise within 1/8 inch (the code is 3/8 inch). 4-inch sphere rule, never 4-1/4. Graspable handrail cross-section. Stainless screws on cedar. Inspection if required. The stair holds up because it was built to the rules.
Equal-rise within one-eighth inch across the entire stair — tighter than code
The residential stair equal-rise tolerance is 3/8 inch across an entire stair run. The reason for the tolerance is that the human gait pattern locks in on the rise of the first step within two steps of a flight; an unexpected variance in step 4 or 5 is what causes 90 percent of stair trips. We hold the equal-rise to 1/8 inch on every stair we cut — three times tighter than code — by calculating the cut once on the framing-square method and verifying every stringer against a stair-master gauge before we fasten. The cost difference is zero. The trip risk difference is real.
Residential guard plus four-inch sphere baluster rule — never four-and-a-quarter inches
The residential guard runs at 36 inches minimum above the tread nosing or the deck surface, and the balusters are spaced so a 4-inch sphere cannot pass through. 4-inch sphere translates to about 3-7/8 inches between balusters on a typical 2x2 cedar baluster — we hold to 3-3/4 inches to give ourselves construction tolerance. Contractors who pencil-measure 4 inches and end up at 4-1/4 fail the 4-inch sphere test, and a small head can fit through that gap. We use a 4-inch sphere gauge on every guard run.
Graspable handrail cross-section per the residential code
The handrail on any stair with four or more risers is graspable — the cross-section requirement is 1-1/4 to 2 inches outside diameter (or an equivalent perimeter for a non-round shape, with the largest cross-sectional dimension not exceeding 2-1/4 inches). A 2x4 used as a handrail is too thick to grasp and fails the test. A 5/4-inch deck board on edge is too thin and not stable. We use a proper 1-1/2-inch round cedar handrail or a matching composite rail profile, terminated at the wall with a return or at the guard with a graspable cap.
Stainless or hot-dip galvanized fasteners on every cedar tread
Plain steel screws streak rust into cedar within twelve months in Seattle weather. Hot-dip galvanized fasteners survive three to five years before any streak. Stainless steel (305 or 316 grade) survives the lifetime of the cedar. We use hot-dip galvanized on structural connectors (stringer hangers, landing post brackets) and stainless on every tread and riser fastener. The cedar lasts fifteen to twenty years, the fastener lasts the cedar's lifetime, the stair does not streak.
Permits pulled, inspection scheduled, code-compliant or we re-do it
Stairs with a total rise of 30 inches or more typically require a permit from Seattle DCI or your local building department. Handis pulls the carpentry permit as the general contractor on the stair work, schedules the inspection, meets the inspector on site, and provides the permit copy at project close. If the inspector flags anything as not-to-code, we fix it before we collect — that is the standard, and we have not had to fix anything for code at inspection in years because we build to the rules the first time.
Estimate
Tell us the deck (height above grade, board material), the grade at the bottom of the stair (flat yard, sloped, walkway), the preference on tread material (cedar matches a cedar deck, composite matches a composite deck), whether you want a landing (required at every 12 feet of rise, or a preference for a direction change), and any add-ons (integrated bench at the landing, low-voltage step lights, stair light circuit). We send back a clear estimate and a project timeline.
Customer Reviews
Deck stairs and landings reviews from real Seattle-area Handis customers.
Replaced the old stairs off our second-story deck with a proper double-stair to an intermediate landing because the original single flight was too steep for code and my mother could not use it. Handis cut new stringers to code geometry, set the landing on concrete piers, ran a matching cedar guard at 36 inches, and built a small bench into the landing. Five working days. Permit pulled, inspector signed off. Mother visits and uses the stairs.
7-step stair with intermediate landing off our raised cedar deck in Redmond. The crew laid out the stringer cut, dry-fit against the deck and the grade landing point, and showed me the equal-rise measurement with a tape before they fastened anything. Composite treads to match our Trex deck above. Permit pulled by Handis, inspection scheduled and passed first try. Three days. Cost came in right at the estimate.
Basic 4-step stair off our low Magnolia deck to the side gate. Cedar treads matching the existing deck, single landing at grade, no permit needed (deck-to-grade was only 26 inches). Two days. The crew round-overed the front edge of every tread for comfort and the stair has not creaked or shifted in eighteen months.
Double-stair off our Issaquah deck to a sloped yard that drops 7 feet at the bottom. Handis cut the stringers for both flights to land at the intermediate landing exactly square, then continued at 90 degrees down the slope to grade. The handrail terminates with a graspable cap at the bottom landing — a small detail that made my elderly father comfortable using it. Five days. Inspector commented that the guard and handrail were textbook.
Replaced the deck stairs as part of a larger deck refresh. Composite treads to match the new TimberTech boards on the deck above, matching composite balusters and handrail. The crew pulled the old stair off in half a day, cut and set the new stringers the same day, decked and railed over two more days. Inspector signed off on the carpentry permit the following week. The stair feels solid and looks like it belongs.
Frequently Asked Questions
Common questions about deck stairs and landings — code requirements, pricing, timeline, materials, permits, and what to expect.