Hardwood Screen & Recoat (Buff)

Handis hardwood screen-and-recoat is the light refresh that puts new finish on an existing hardwood floor without sanding through to bare wood — adhesion test patch on a closet floor to confirm the existing finish will take a new coat, light random-orbital screen with a 120-to-150 grit on a buffer to flatten and key the surface, vacuum and tack-cloth between screen and recoat, one or two coats of Bona Traffic HD or matching-finish-line polyurethane, plastic-zip walls and HEPA-filtered work-zone air — from $1,500 for a single 250-to-400 square foot room. The work for a floor that is dull at the surface but the wood is sound and the existing finish has not failed. Faster, cheaper, and less disruptive than a full sand-and-refinish. The right service when the floor needs a refresh, not a reset.

Hardwood screen and recoat image — installer operating a Bona 17-inch electric buffer with a 120-grit sanding screen across a tired but sound red oak floor in a Seattle dining room, plastic-zip wall sealing the doorway, vacuum and Bona Traffic HD topcoat staged on a drop cloth.

Service

Photo of a screen-and-recoat in progress — installer rolling on a coat of Bona Traffic HD across a freshly screened oak floor with a microfiber roller, plastic-zip wall sealing the doorway, Bona 17-inch buffer and HEPA vacuum parked at the back wall.
Process

How a Screen & Recoat Works

Six sequential steps from the adhesion test patch through the cure-window sign-off — the actual sequence we follow on every hardwood screen-and-recoat.

Pricing

Screen & Recoat Pricing

Final pricing depends on square footage, the number of coats (one for mild refresh, two for more wear), and whether the existing finish is screen-and-recoat-compatible (an adhesion test patch confirms). Request a free estimate for an accurate quote.

Tell us the room (square footage and species), the existing finish (water-based, oil-modified, wax, or unknown), and whether you have noticed any dull-or-failing spots — we will quote the adhesion test, the screen, the coats, and the full cure calendar.

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Why Handis for Hardwood Screen & Recoat
Trust

Why Handis for Hardwood Screen & Recoat

Screen-and-recoat is the most overlooked hardwood service because most homeowners assume a tired floor needs a full refinish. It often does not. A floor that is dull at the surface, scratched only at the very top of the finish (not into the wood), and has a sound existing poly under the dullness is the textbook screen-and-recoat candidate — and the refresh runs at less than half the cost of a full refinish with no full-dust event and no 14-day no-rug window. The honest first call is the adhesion test on the closet floor — if it passes, screen-and-recoat is the right service; if it fails, we say so and the alternative is a full refinish. Not every dull floor needs a sander.

Estimate

Tell us the room (square footage and species), the existing finish (water-based, oil-modified, wax, or unknown — we will test on the first visit), whether you have noticed dull-or-failing spots, and the coat count (one for mild refresh, two for added durability). We send a clear estimate with the adhesion test, the screen, the coats, and the cure calendar.

Service cost estimate illustration
Reviews

Customer Reviews

Recent screen-and-recoat reviews from real Handis customers.

FAQ

Frequently Asked Questions

Common questions about Handis hardwood screen-and-recoat (buff).

How much does a screen-and-recoat cost?
A single 250-to-400 square foot room with one coat starts at $1,500. A 400-to-700 square foot pair of rooms with one coat starts at $1,900. A 700-to-1,100 square foot full main level with one coat starts at $2,400. A 1,100-to-1,500 square foot level with hall and stair landing with two coats starts at $2,900. A 1,500-to-2,000 square foot whole-house level with two coats starts at $3,500. Add-ons: additional second coat per room is $400, adhesion test patch (if existing finish history is unknown) is $120, move and replace heavy furniture is $150. Less than half the cost of a full sand-and-refinish on the same square footage.
What is the difference between screen-and-recoat and a full refinish?
A screen-and-recoat is a light random-orbital screen of the existing finish with a 120-to-150 grit sanding screen on a 17-inch buffer, then one or two coats of polyurethane on top — no sanding through to bare wood, no full-dust event, faster cure, lower cost. The work for a floor that is dull at the surface but the wood underneath is sound and the existing finish has not failed. A full refinish strips the existing finish down through the worn layer with a drum sander, three-grit sequence, and re-coats — work for a floor with wear-through, dings, deep scratches, or finish failure. We will tell you on the first visit which one your floor actually needs.
How do you know if my floor is a screen-and-recoat candidate?
Three checks. First, is the existing finish sound? Dullness at the surface and minor surface scratches qualify; wear-through into the wood, deep scratches, dings, and finish peel do not. Second, is the existing finish a poly product (not wax, not shellac, not oil-only)? Most modern Seattle hardwood floors are polyurethane and qualify. Third, does the existing finish accept a new coat? We confirm with an adhesion test patch on the closet floor on the first visit — screen, recoat a small square, cure 24 hours, scratch-test for bond. If the test passes, screen-and-recoat is the right service.
What is an adhesion test patch and why does it matter?
The adhesion test confirms the new poly will chemically bond to the existing finish before we commit to the bulk screen across the whole floor. We screen a small square at an out-of-the-way location (closet floor or corner), apply a small recoat patch, cure 24 hours, then scratch-test for bond. If the patch peels, lifts, or fails the scratch test, the existing finish is not screen-and-recoat-compatible — usually because it is waxed, shellacked, oil-only, or contaminated by silicone polish. We recommend a full sand-and-refinish instead. Adhesion test is $120 and prevents a year-one peel that would cost $3,000 to fix.
How long does a screen-and-recoat take?
A single 250-to-400 square foot room is 1 day of work plus the cure window. A 700-to-1,100 square foot main level is 2 to 3 days of work plus cure. Single-coat reaches full traffic at 7 days; two-coat reaches full traffic at 8 days. The screen takes about 30 to 60 minutes per 400 square feet on the buffer, the vacuum-and-tack takes about 15 minutes per 400 square feet, the first coat takes 30 to 60 minutes per 400 square feet to roll out, the cure between coats is 24 hours, the second coat (if in scope) takes another 30 to 60 minutes. The full project is fast.
How much dust does the screen create?
Much less than a full refinish — a buffer screening of the existing finish surface generates a fraction of the dust of a drum sand. The buffer collects most of the dust into a built-in bag or an attached vacuum, and what escapes is a small fraction of what a drum sander broadcasts. We still run plastic-zip walls at the doorways and HEPA-filtered work-zone air because even buffer-screen dust will migrate without containment — but the dust event is light compared to a full refinish, and many homeowners stay in the house through the entire screen-and-recoat without dust complaints.
Can I stay in the house during a screen-and-recoat?
Yes — most homeowners stay in the house through a screen-and-recoat. The work zone is sealed with plastic-zip walls, the dust event is light, and the off-gas of water-based polyurethane is mild. The work zone is offline for the cure window after final coat (24 to 48 hours no-walk), so plan to stay out of that room until the cure is done. Pets and kids stay out of the work zone with the door closed (curious paw on wet finish is a problem). Same-house living is normal during a screen-and-recoat where it is often disruptive during a full refinish.
How often should I screen-and-recoat my hardwood floor?
Every 5 to 7 years is the typical maintenance interval for residential hardwood under normal traffic. A floor that is screened-and-recoated on schedule may go 20 years between full refinishes; a floor that goes 12 years without any maintenance often needs a full refinish at that point because the existing finish has worn through to the wood. The maintenance recoat is far cheaper and far less disruptive than the eventual full refinish — and on the maintenance cycle, the floor never reaches the wear-through point that forces the big project.
Will the recoat change the floor color?
A clear water-based topcoat (Bona Traffic HD, Bona Mega ONE) keeps the existing color essentially unchanged — adds a slight depth and warmth from the additional layer but does not shift the tone. An oil-modified topcoat reads slightly amber and warms the existing color over time. We recommend the water-based topcoat for most screen-and-recoat refreshes because color shift is rarely the goal — the goal is to refresh the existing finish without changing the floor. If a color change is the goal, that is a stain and color change service, not a screen-and-recoat.
What if the adhesion test fails?
We recommend a full sand-and-refinish instead and explain why the screen-and-recoat would not have held. Common reasons — existing finish is waxed over the original poly (very common on 1990s and earlier floors), shellac instead of poly, silicone-contaminated cleaning-product residue on the surface, or the existing finish is too aged for chemical bond. The full refinish strips everything to bare wood and starts fresh — the right service when the screen-and-recoat is not compatible. We can quote both on the same visit.
Is the work guaranteed?
Yes — one-year workmanship warranty on every screen-and-recoat. If the recoat fails inside a year due to our work (peel from inadequate screen, fish-eye from contaminated surface, dull spot from missed tack pass), we come back and fix it at no extra charge. The warranty does not cover damage from improper care (aggressive cleaning chemicals, abrasive scrub pads, putting an area rug down inside the no-rug window). The finish manufacturer warranty (Bona, etc.) stays with the product. Every Handis tech carries liability insurance and has cleared a background screening before the first job.

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