Privacy Screens & Lattice

Handis privacy screens and lattice puts cedar slat panels, horizontal-board screens, and traditional lattice in the spots a residential yard needs visual privacy — property-line privacy against a neighbor's window, deck-corner screening against a sightline from the street, hot-tub enclosure for soaking privacy, trash-can or HVAC-unit screen at the side of the house, garden-bed visual divider — from $1,200 for a 6-foot-by-8-foot cedar lattice panel set on existing posts to $4,000 for a full 24-foot horizontal-board screen on new 4x4 cedar posts in concrete footings. Three real screen styles. Cedar slat (1x4 or 1x6 cedar boards running vertical or horizontal with tunable gap spacing) reads contemporary and modern. Horizontal-board (1x6 or 1x8 cedar boards running horizontally with tight or open gap spacing) reads as the modern Northwest yard style most current Seattle homes use. Traditional lattice (cedar lattice panels in the standard 4-by-8 size) reads classic-cottage and works well as a quick visual-block. We size the screen to the actual privacy need (the neighbor's window, the deck sightline, the hot tub enclosure perimeter) and we tune the slat spacing to the right balance of privacy and airflow for the location.

Privacy screen installation image — finished Western Red Cedar horizontal-board privacy screen 16 feet long and 8 feet tall along a Seattle property line, three 4x4 cedar posts on concrete footings holding the screen, 1x6 cedar boards mounted horizontally with the slat spacing tuned for visual block, neighbor's second-story window blocked from the yard view.

Service

What Does a Privacy Screen Build Include?

A privacy screen build is the residential carpentry service that puts a cedar slat panel, horizontal-board fence-style screen, or traditional cedar lattice panel in the spots a yard needs visual privacy — covering site review and post-location layout against property lines and setback restrictions, 4x4 cedar post-set on concrete footings dug to 24 to 30 inches below grade with Simpson ABA or ABU post-base anchors (new-post installs) or mounting hardware on existing posts and structures (retrofit installs), cedar slat or horizontal-board installation with the slat spacing tuned to the privacy-vs-airflow priority for the location, top-cap trim detail, and finish detailing. Handis covers privacy screens from $1,200 on a 6-foot-by-8-foot cedar lattice panel set on existing 4x4 cedar posts up to $4,000 on a full 24-foot horizontal-board screen with three new 4x4 cedar posts in concrete footings.

Three Screen Styles

Cedar slat — 1x4 or 1x6 Western Red Cedar boards mounted vertical (for the modern vertical-slat look) or horizontal (for the contemporary horizontal look) with tunable gap spacing. Reads contemporary; works well on Modern, mid-century, and contemporary Northwest homes. Horizontal-board — 1x6 or 1x8 cedar boards running horizontally with tight or open gap spacing. Reads as the modern Northwest yard style most current Seattle homes use; the dominant fence and screen style on new-construction infill houses. Traditional lattice — pre-fabricated 4-foot-by-8-foot cedar lattice panels (1/2-inch lattice strips in a diagonal crisscross pattern) mounted on a perimeter frame. Reads classic-cottage and works well as a quick visual block on older houses and traditional gardens.

Slat Spacing Tuned to Privacy vs Airflow

The slat-spacing decision is the single biggest privacy-vs-airflow trade-off on a cedar screen. Tight spacing (1/4-inch gap between slats) — visual-block priority, almost full visual privacy at any viewing angle, minimal airflow through the screen. Standard spacing (1/2-inch gap) — strong visual privacy at most angles, moderate airflow, the most-common choice. Open spacing (3/4-inch gap or wider) — partial visual privacy with strong airflow through the screen, used when the screen is more about visual division than full block. We confirm the privacy priority on the booking call and tune the spacing for the location.

4x4 Cedar Posts in Concrete Footings on New-Post Installs

New-post installs follow the same footing standard as our pergola builds — power-auger every footing to 24 to 30 inches below grade, pour concrete around a Simpson ABA or ABU post-base anchor set plumb in the wet pour, 48-hour cure before the 4x4 cedar post is raised. Post spacing typically 6 feet on standard runs (3 posts on a 12-foot screen, 4 posts on an 18-foot screen, 5 posts on a 24-foot screen). The footings keep the screen plumb against PNW wet-soil seasonal movement and any wind load on the screen face.

Mounting Hardware for Retrofit Installs on Existing Structures

Retrofit installs mount cedar slat or horizontal-board panels on existing structures — an existing cedar fence (we add height with a screen panel above the existing top rail), existing 4x4 cedar posts (we mount the screen panel between or against the existing posts), the eave of the house or garage (we mount the screen against the eave with structural anchors), or a deck rail (we attach to the deck rail with through-bolts). Retrofit installs avoid the footing dig and the 48-hour cure, run faster (usually a 1-day install), and cost less than the new-post equivalent.

Top-Cap Trim and Finish Detail

Every screen gets a top-cap trim — a 2x6 cedar cap board running along the top of the screen panel with the ends mitered or cut square depending on the layout. The top cap protects the end-grain of the vertical slats (or the top horizontal board) from weather, gives the screen a finished visual edge, and ties multiple panels into a continuous visual run. Posts get cedar post caps (square or ball-top depending on the look) for the same reasons. Finish-detail completes the screen as a piece of furniture-grade carpentry rather than a backyard project.

Photo of a privacy screen install in progress — installer mounting 1x6 Western Red Cedar boards horizontally on a 4x4 cedar post frame using stainless ring-shank nails, level laid across the top of the panel to check plumb, stack of pre-cut cedar boards on a sawhorse beside the install, a freshly cured concrete footing visible at the post base.
Process

How a Privacy Screen Build Works

Six sequential steps from site review through top-cap install — the actual sequence we follow on every cedar privacy screen build.

Pricing

Privacy Screens & Lattice Pricing

Final pricing depends on screen length, height, style (cedar slat, horizontal-board, traditional lattice), whether the install is on new posts in concrete footings (longer install, 48-hour cure) or retrofit on existing structures (faster install), and any decorative add-ons (custom post caps, decorative trim). Slat spacing (tight 1/4-inch, standard 1/2-inch, open 3/4-inch) is tuned to your location at booking — included at no extra charge. All cedar is Western Red Cedar from PNW suppliers. Request a free estimate for an accurate quote.

Tell us what needs to be screened (the neighbor's window, the deck corner, the hot tub, the HVAC unit) and the run length you need — we will quote the right style and slat-spacing for the location.

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Why Handis for Privacy Screens & Lattice
Trust

Why Handis for Privacy Screens & Lattice

The single most-common booking call we get for privacy screens is the neighbor remodeled their second story and now there is a window looking straight into the hot tub or the master bedroom or the deck. The traditional answer was to plant a fast-growing evergreen and wait 5 to 8 years; the modern answer is a cedar horizontal-board screen on three new 4x4 cedar posts in concrete footings, 8 feet tall and 12 to 16 feet long, slat-spacing tuned for visual-block priority, installed in 2 days. The screen reads as a planned piece of yard architecture (warm Western Red Cedar that weathers silver, top-cap trim, decorative post caps) rather than as a defensive structure. Cedar slat and horizontal-board screens have become the dominant property-line privacy answer in Seattle's infill neighborhoods over the last decade because they solve the privacy problem cleanly without the wait time or the maintenance burden of a hedge — and they look better.

Western Red Cedar throughout — never pressure-treated pine

We build privacy screens in Western Red Cedar — heartwood when we can source it, structural-grade clear when we cannot. Pressure-treated pine is not a substitute on a privacy screen because the green-yellow chemical look does not match the modern Northwest yard style, and the dimensional instability of PT pine in PNW wet-dry cycles is worse than cedar (PT pine slats warp and cup within 12 to 18 months; cedar holds its plane through the wet season). PT pine still goes on the buried portion of the post-base hardware blocking only; every visible 4x4 post, 2x4 rail, 1x4 or 1x6 slat, and 2x6 top cap is cedar on every screen we build.

Slat spacing tuned to the privacy priority

The slat-spacing decision is the single biggest privacy-vs-airflow trade-off on a cedar screen — and we tune it for your location. Tight spacing (1/4-inch gap) for full visual block at any viewing angle. Standard spacing (1/2-inch gap) for strong visual privacy with moderate airflow — the most-common choice. Open spacing (3/4-inch gap or wider) for partial privacy with strong airflow through the screen, used when the screen is more about visual division than full block. We confirm the priority on the booking call so the screen does the job it is being built for.

Concrete-set footings on new-post installs — same as pergola spec

New-post privacy screens get the same footing treatment as our pergola builds — power-auger every footing to 24 to 30 inches below grade, pour concrete around a Simpson ABA or ABU post-base anchor set plumb in the wet pour, 48-hour concrete cure before the 4x4 cedar post is raised. Post spacing typically 6 feet on center. The footings keep the screen plumb against PNW wet-soil seasonal movement and any wind load on the screen face. A privacy-screen post on a buried 4x4 (the DIY shortcut) leans within 2 to 3 years; a properly footed post stays plumb for the life of the cedar.

Stainless ring-shank nails or stainless screws — galvanic-compatible with cedar

Cedar slats mount with stainless ring-shank nails (the most-common choice for the modern cedar slat aesthetic — fastener heads disappear into the slat face) or stainless screws (when removal-and-replacement of slats is a future need). Stainless is galvanic-compatible with cedar tannins; standard electro-galvanized nails or screws corrode against cedar tannins within 18 to 24 months and run black streaks down the slat face. We do not substitute the cheaper fastener because the failure mode is visible from the yard chair within two summers.

Top-cap trim and post caps on every screen

Every screen gets a 2x6 cedar top cap along the top of the panel — the top cap protects the end-grain of the vertical slats from weather, gives the screen a finished visual edge, and ties multiple panels into a continuous visual run. Cedar post caps (square flat-cut, ball-top, or custom profile) on every post. The trim work is what separates a cedar privacy screen that reads as planned yard architecture from one that reads as a quickly-erected defensive panel — and the trim takes maybe 60 minutes per screen run.

Property-line setback checked before any post-set

Most jurisdictions allow privacy screens within the property setback (usually 0 inches from the property line on a privacy fence-style screen, subject to specific city code), but some jurisdictions have a 6-inch or 12-inch setback from the property line, and most jurisdictions have a height limit (6 feet at the property line in most of Seattle, 8 feet allowed on rear-yard privacy in many jurisdictions). We confirm the setback and the height limit for your address on the booking call before any post is set, so the screen does not get red-tagged by the jurisdiction after install.

Estimate

Tell us what specifically needs to be screened (the neighbor's window facing your yard, the deck corner sightline from the street, the hot-tub enclosure perimeter, the HVAC unit at the side of the house, the trash-can or compost-bin area), the run length you need (a 12-foot section along the property line, a 16-foot run from the deck corner, a 3-sided U-shape around an HVAC), the screen style preference (cedar slat for modern vertical look, horizontal-board for Northwest contemporary, traditional lattice for classic-cottage), and the privacy-vs-airflow priority. We confirm the property-line setback and the height limit for your jurisdiction on the first visit.

Service cost estimate illustration
Reviews

Customer Reviews

Privacy screen and lattice reviews from real Handis customers.

FAQ

Frequently Asked Questions

Common questions about Handis privacy screen and lattice construction.

How much does a privacy screen cost?
A traditional cedar lattice panel (6-foot-by-8-foot, retrofit on existing posts) starts at $1,200. A cedar slat screen (6-foot-by-8-foot retrofit) runs $1,400. A horizontal-board cedar screen (6-foot-by-12-foot, new posts in concrete) runs $1,700. A cedar slat screen (8-foot-by-12-foot, new posts) runs $2,000. Horizontal-board screens on new posts run $2,800 for 8-by-16, $3,500 for 8-by-20, and $4,000 for the maximum standard 8-by-24-foot run. A three-sided cedar U-screen for hiding an HVAC unit, trash cans, or compost bins runs $1,800. Add-ons include $60 per post for ball-top or custom-profile post-cap upgrade, $350 for heavy-duty stainless mounting hardware on retrofit installs. Custom slat spacing (tight 1/4-inch, standard 1/2-inch, open 3/4-inch) is included at no extra charge — we tune for your location at booking.
Cedar slat, horizontal-board, or traditional lattice — which should I get?
Cedar slat (vertical 1x4 or 1x6 slats) reads contemporary and modern, works particularly well on Modern, mid-century, and contemporary Northwest houses. Horizontal-board (1x6 or 1x8 boards running horizontally) reads as the modern Northwest yard style — the dominant fence and screen style on new-construction infill houses across Seattle, Bellevue, and the Eastside. Traditional cedar lattice (the pre-fabricated 4-by-8 lattice panels in a perimeter frame) reads classic-cottage and works well on older houses (1920s through 1960s bungalows and craftsmans) and traditional cottage gardens. We recommend the style on the booking call based on the house architecture and the yard style.
How tall can the screen be?
Most Seattle-area jurisdictions allow privacy screens up to 6 feet at the property line and up to 8 feet on rear-yard privacy that is set back from the property line. The specific limit varies by jurisdiction — Seattle allows up to 6 feet at the property line and 8 feet beyond the front-yard setback; Bellevue and Redmond have similar limits; King County has additional restrictions in some unincorporated zones. We confirm the height limit and the property-line setback for your address on the booking call before any post-set work begins. The standard heights we build are 6 feet (most common) and 8 feet (for full standing-height privacy on a deck, around a hot tub, or against a second-story neighbor's window).
How is the slat spacing tuned for privacy?
Three tunable settings, each with a different privacy-vs-airflow profile. Tight spacing (1/4-inch gap between slats) — almost full visual privacy at any viewing angle from any distance, minimal airflow through the screen, used when the privacy block matters most and airflow is not a factor. Standard spacing (1/2-inch gap) — strong visual privacy at most angles and most viewing distances (some visual at very close range from an angled viewpoint), moderate airflow, the most-common choice for property-line screens. Open spacing (3/4-inch gap or wider) — partial visual privacy with strong airflow through the screen, used when the screen is more about visual division than full block (a deck-corner sightline break, a garden-bed visual divider) or when airflow matters more than privacy (HVAC enclosures).
Do you set posts in concrete or use existing posts?
Both — depending on what is already in place. New-post installs power-auger footings to 24 to 30 inches below grade, pour concrete around Simpson ABA or ABU post-base anchors set plumb in the wet pour, and raise new 4x4 cedar posts after the 48-hour concrete cure. Used on property-line runs with no existing fence, on stand-alone screens away from existing structures, and where the existing posts cannot take the screen load. Retrofit installs mount the screen on existing structures — existing cedar fence posts, the eave of the house or garage, a deck rail, or existing structural posts in the yard. Retrofit installs run faster (1 day vs 2 days for new posts), cost less ($1,200 to $1,400 entry-price vs $1,700 and up for new posts), and skip the footing dig and the 48-hour cure.
How long does the install take?
Retrofit installs (mounting on existing structures, no new posts) run 1 day on most plans — site review, fabricate the screen panel on site or off site depending on the configuration, mount the panel and the top cap. New-post installs run 2 days — day one power-auger the footings, pour concrete with post-base anchors set in the wet pour, 48-hour cure starts. Day three (after the cure) raise the cedar posts, frame the screen panel, mount the slats, install the top-cap and post caps. Longer runs (8-by-20 and 8-by-24 horizontal-board) run an additional half day for the post-set and the slat-mount. Three-sided U-shape screens (HVAC, trash-can) run 2 days because of the three-sided geometry.
Will the cedar weather to silver — should I seal it?
Yes — Western Red Cedar weathers from a warm honey-amber color when freshly milled to a uniform silver-grey patina over 12 to 18 months in PNW exposure, on privacy screens the same as on pergolas. The silver-grey is the natural oxidized surface — structurally sound (cedar oils preserve the heartwood underneath) and the look most Seattle homeowners want when they say they want a cedar screen. We recommend embracing the silver weathering. If you prefer to hold the honey color, a clear UV-protective penetrating sealer (Penofin, TWP, Cabot Australian Timber Oil) applied annually keeps the wood closer to the original color, but the maintenance burden is real and most homeowners stop after the first re-coat.
Can you build a screen around an HVAC unit or trash cans?
Yes — three-sided cedar U-shape screens for hiding an HVAC unit, trash cans, compost bins, or other yard-side utilities are a common build. The U-shape runs three new 4x4 cedar posts (one at each corner of the U) on concrete footings with cedar slat or horizontal-board panels on the three sides, open at the top for any heat exhaust (HVAC) or access (trash cans), and open on the fourth side for unit access and maintenance. We tune the slat-spacing for the specific use case — open spacing for HVAC (so the AC airflow is not restricted), tight spacing for trash cans or compost bins (where visual block is the only priority).
Do I need a permit for a privacy screen?
Usually no — most Seattle-area jurisdictions classify privacy screens up to 6 feet (or up to 8 feet on rear-yard privacy beyond the setback) as fence work that does not require a permit. The threshold and the specific height limits are jurisdiction-specific — Seattle, Bellevue, Redmond, Kirkland, Sammamish, Mercer Island, Issaquah, Renton, and Tukwila each have slightly different rules. We confirm the permit threshold and the height limit for your address on the booking call before any work begins. Tall screens (8 feet and up) and screens in jurisdictions with stricter setback rules may require a permit; Handis pulls the permit when required.
Is the work guaranteed?
Yes — one-year project warranty on our carpentry covering post-set (on new-post installs), screen-panel framing, slat or horizontal-board install, top-cap and post-cap finish detail, and the property-line setback compliance work. Cedar weathering to silver in 12 to 18 months is the natural patina and not a warranty issue. The screen stays plumb and square for the life of the cedar (18 to 25 years on standard cedar, 25+ on heartwood) given the concrete-set footings on new-post installs and the corrosion-compatible stainless fasteners throughout. Every Handis tech carries liability insurance and has cleared a background screening before the first job.

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