Hardwood (Ipe) Deck

Hardwood deck is the tropical-hardwood construction path — Ipe (Brazilian Walnut), Cumaru, Garapa, or Tigerwood boards on a pressure-treated 2x joist frame, the densest commercial decking material available (Ipe has a Janka hardness of 3,510 — almost three times harder than oak), naturally Class A fire-rated, and structurally sound unfinished for 25 to 40 years in Pacific Northwest exposure. Boards arrive kiln-dried, sit on site under cover for 1 to 2 weeks to acclimate to PNW humidity before installation, every board gets pre-drilled at the fastener locations (Ipe is too dense to drive a stainless screw without pre-drilling — a

Hardwood Ipe deck image — finished single-level Ipe deck on the south side of a Madrona contemporary home, freshly oiled to the deep golden-walnut tone, hidden-fastener install with no visible screws across the field, stainless cable rail on aluminum posts at the open side, and an Ipe-clad bench along the perimeter doubling as the rail.

Service

What Hardwood Deck Construction Covers

A hardwood deck is the densest, longest-living decking-material category we install — tropical hardwoods (Ipe / Brazilian Walnut, Cumaru, Garapa, Tigerwood) on a pressure-treated 2x frame, 25 to 40-year structural life in PNW exposure unfinished, Class A fire-rated, no manufacturer warranty in the consumer-product sense because the wood itself is the warranty. Trade-offs are upfront cost (Ipe runs roughly $14 to $18 per linear foot of 1x6 decking at current Seattle yard pricing — roughly 4 to 5 times what cedar costs), labor density (every fastener is pre-drilled because the wood is harder than a #10 stainless screw can drive into without snapping), and the sourcing-ethics question (Ipe is heavily harvested in Brazil; FSC-certified stock matters and is not always available). Handis owns the carpentry and the project schedule; the permit goes through us as general contractor; structural engineering subs to a licensed Washington PE when the deck triggers it; any line-voltage circuit routes to a licensed Washington L&I electrician.

Pre-Build Site Assessment + Demo + FSC Sourcing

First visit measures the footprint, photographs the ledger zone, hand-augers a soil probe at the new footing positions, and confirms whether the project triggers a Seattle DCI permit. On a rebuild we demolish the existing deck and expose the rim joist for the new ledger. Hardwood sourcing happens before footings are dug — Ipe and Cumaru in particular have variable supply at the Seattle yards (FSC-certified stock is the right choice for the supply-chain ethics, but it is not always on the shelf and may need to be ordered from the Pacific Northwest distributor with a 2 to 4-week lead time). We name the source on the quote and order at contract signing.

Acclimation: Boards Sit on Site Under Cover 1 to 2 Weeks Before Install

Tropical hardwoods arrive kiln-dried to a moisture content (typically 12 to 16 percent) that is drier than the PNW ambient moisture content (which runs 14 to 20 percent year-round). If boards install at delivery moisture and then absorb ambient moisture in place, every gap closes up and the deck cups within months. The discipline is to stage the boards on site under a tarp with stickers between rows for 1 to 2 weeks before installation so the moisture content equalizes; we measure with a pin moisture meter at delivery and at install, and we do not install until the meter reads within 2 percentage points of the ambient. The wait is real; we plan the schedule around it.

Footings, Ledger, and Frame in PT 2x

Footings go in as concrete piers (typical Seattle 4 to 6-foot dig below frost line) or helical piles (hillside or fill-soil lots) sized to the engineer's load schedule. Ipe at 1-inch thickness, 25 millimeter, is roughly twice the weight per square foot of cedar at 5/4 thickness, so the load schedule on a hardwood deck is genuinely heavier than the same-square-foot cedar deck — the engineer calculates accordingly. Ledger gets through-bolted with code-stamped LedgerLOK or FastenMaster bolts, full continuous metal flashing tied into siding above and peel-and-stick membrane below (the single most common failure point on PNW residential decks). Joists are pressure-treated 2x in the size and spacing the engineer specifies — typically 2x10 at 12-inch on center for hidden-fastener hardwood because the boards span less reliably than face-fastened dimensional lumber.

Pre-Drilled Hidden Fastener Install on Stainless Hardware

Every board gets pre-drilled at every fastener location. A standard #10 stainless screw cannot be driven into Ipe without a pilot hole — the wood density (Janka 3,510 for Ipe; 3,540 for Cumaru) is high enough that the screw shank snaps off in the wood before the head seats. The hidden fastener system is the Ipe Clip Extreme, the Eb-Ty (biscuit-style), or the Deckmaster (sub-joist bracket) — all run with marine-grade stainless steel fasteners only, because galvanized or carbon-steel fasteners react with the natural tannins in tropical hardwoods and bleed black streaks down the board within months. The hidden-fastener gap (typically 1/4 inch) is set automatically by the clip geometry. End-cuts on every board get sealed with end-grain wax (Anchorseal, ProClear) before installation to prevent moisture checking at the cut.

Color-Matched Fascia, Stair Nosing, Custom Railing

Perimeter and stair risers wrap in matched hardwood fascia (typically 5/4 by 8-inch Ipe ripped from a wider board), bullnose-routed at every visible edge so there is no exposed end-grain at the perimeter. Custom Ipe railings are an option on premium builds (an Ipe top rail with cable infill, or full Ipe top-and-bottom rails with Ipe balusters at the spec'd 4-inch maximum sphere clearance). Built-in Ipe benches are framed inside the joist plane during framing so the bench tile uses the same waterproofing envelope as the deck and sits flush with the field boards.

Final Oil Application or Documented Silvering Decision

At hand-off the deck finishes one of two ways. Option A: a Penofin Hardwood Oil application that holds the golden-walnut tone for 12 to 18 months in PNW exposure before a re-application is needed (annual oil is the maintenance commitment for owners who want the deck to look the way it does at install for the next 20 years). Option B: no finish at all; the deck silvers naturally to a driftwood grey over 6 to 18 months and stays structurally identical to the oiled version (this is the lower-maintenance path and the choice most architecturally honest finish for a contemporary home). We document which option you chose on the project file so the maintenance plan matches your expectation.

Photo of an Ipe hardwood deck build in progress — Handis carpenter pre-drilling a pilot hole into an Ipe board with a stainless Ipe Clip Extreme fastener set in the slot below, kiln-dried Ipe boards stickered under a tarp in the background for acclimation, end-grain wax applied to a cut end visible in the foreground.
Process

How the Hardwood Deck Build Works

Six sequential phases from FSC sourcing and acclimation to oil-or-silver decision at hand-off — the actual working sequence we run on every Ipe, Cumaru, Garapa, or Tigerwood deck.

Pricing

Hardwood (Ipe) Deck Pricing

Final pricing depends on species (Ipe is the most expensive; Cumaru and Garapa run 10 to 20 percent less per board), square footage, elevation above grade (which triggers permit and engineering), FSC sourcing premium (typically 10 to 15 percent over non-certified stock), railing system, and integrated lighting scope. Building permit fee and structural engineering pass through as named line items on the quote, not as surprise add-ons. The licensed Washington L&I electrician's portion (for any new line-voltage circuit) is also named line by line. Request a free in-home estimate for an accurate quote.

Tell us the species you are considering (Ipe, Cumaru, Garapa, Tigerwood), the rough square footage, and whether you want the oil-and-hold-the-tone path or the silver-naturally path — we will quote the build including FSC sourcing, permit, and engineering pass-through.

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Why Seattle Homeowners Book Handis for Hardwood Decks
Trust

Why Seattle Homeowners Book Handis for Hardwood Decks

A hardwood deck is the longest-lived decking material we install and the one that punishes shortcuts the most. The shortcuts we see on failed hardwood decks all share the same root cause — the builder treated Ipe like cedar. Cedar tolerates a

FSC-sourced where the supply chain allows, source named on the quote

Tropical hardwoods (Ipe especially) are heavily harvested in Brazil, and unverified supply chains have legitimate sustainability and legality concerns. We source FSC-certified stock where the PNW distributor has it (the certification verifies the source forest is managed sustainably and the supply chain is traceable end-to-end), and we name the source on the quote so you see exactly where your deck came from. If FSC stock is unavailable in the species and dimensional run you need, we tell you on the estimate visit and let you decide whether to wait for FSC stock to arrive or substitute a different species (Cumaru and Garapa have more reliable FSC stock).

1 to 2-week acclimation under cover before any board goes down

Tropical hardwoods arrive kiln-dried to roughly 12 to 16 percent moisture content; PNW ambient moisture content runs 14 to 20 percent year-round. If boards install at delivery moisture and then absorb ambient moisture in place, every gap closes up and the deck cups within months. We stage the boards on site under a tarp with stickers between rows for 1 to 2 weeks before installation, measure with a pin moisture meter at delivery and at install, and do not install until the reading is within 2 percentage points of ambient. The wait is non-negotiable. We plan the project schedule around it from day one.

Every fastener pre-drilled, stainless only — never galvanized on hardwood

A standard #10 stainless screw cannot be driven into Ipe without a pilot hole — the wood density (Janka 3,510 for Ipe, 3,540 for Cumaru, 1,540 for Garapa, 2,150 for Tigerwood) is high enough that the screw shank snaps off in the wood before the head seats. We pre-drill every fastener location on every board, every time. All fasteners on a hardwood deck are marine-grade stainless steel only because the natural tannins in tropical hardwoods react with galvanized and carbon-steel fasteners and bleed black streaks down the boards within months of installation. There is no acceptable substitute and there is no exception.

End-grain wax on every cut end before installation

Tropical hardwoods check (split parallel to the grain) at exposed end-grain when the wood gives off moisture too quickly through the cut. End-grain wax (Anchorseal, ProClear) seals the cut, slows the moisture release, and prevents checking. We seal every cut end on every board before the board goes into the deck. The little 30-second step per board is the reason a hardwood deck looks the same at the 5-year mark as it did at install.

Insured, background-checked, 30-day workmanship + lifetime species warranty

Every Handis carpenter carries liability insurance and has cleared a background screening before the first job. The 30-day workmanship guarantee covers any fastener that loosens, any fascia miter that opens, any railing post that moves, and any cosmetic finish at hand-off. The structural framing (footings, beams, joists, ledger) carries our 2-year workmanship warranty on installation, separate from the lumber. The hardwood itself does not carry a manufacturer warranty in the consumer-product sense because tropical hardwoods are a natural material — but Ipe, Cumaru, Garapa, and Tigerwood all have demonstrated 25 to 40-year structural life unfinished in PNW exposure, which is the practical equivalent of a lifetime warranty for a residential deck. The licensed Washington L&I electrician warrants their portion under their own license terms. All warranties in writing at project close.

Estimate

Tell us the back-yard layout (single level or multi-level, attached to the house or freestanding), the rough square footage, the elevation above grade at the highest point, the hardwood species you are leaning toward (Ipe / Brazilian Walnut, Cumaru, Garapa, Tigerwood), whether you want FSC-sourced stock (we recommend yes), and whether you plan to oil the deck annually for the golden tone or let it silver naturally. We send back a clear estimate with the permit and engineering pass-through named line by line and a project timeline that includes the 1 to 2-week board acclimation period.

Service cost estimate illustration
Reviews

Customer Reviews

Hardwood deck construction reviews from real Seattle-area Handis customers.

FAQ

Frequently Asked Questions

Common questions about tropical hardwood deck construction — pricing, species, FSC sourcing, acclimation, fasteners, and what to expect on a Handis Ipe build.

How much does an Ipe or tropical hardwood deck cost in Seattle?
A standard 250 to 300 square-foot single-level Ipe deck on existing footings starts at $40,000. A 300 to 400 square-foot Ipe deck with stainless cable rail and new engineered footings runs about $50,000. A 400 to 500 square-foot deck in Cumaru or Garapa (slightly less expensive than Ipe at 10 to 20 percent under per board) runs about $55,000. An Ipe deck with a custom Ipe top-and-bottom railing system and a built-in Ipe perimeter bench runs about $65,000. A top-end 500+ square-foot multi-level Ipe build with full custom Ipe railing on every level, built-in Ipe bench and planter, integrated lighting, FSC sourcing, and Penofin oil at hand-off runs $80,000. The Seattle DCI building permit (about $950) and the licensed Washington PE structural engineering fee (about $2,200 — hardwood load schedule is heavier than cedar so the engineering is slightly more involved) pass through as named line items.
What is the difference between Ipe, Cumaru, Garapa, and Tigerwood?
Four tropical hardwoods, four different price-and-density profiles. Ipe (Brazilian Walnut) is the densest and most expensive — Janka hardness 3,510, deep golden-walnut color, 30 to 40-year structural life unfinished in PNW exposure, the premium hardwood deck material. Cumaru (Brazilian Teak) is essentially equivalent to Ipe — Janka 3,540, similar warm-brown color with more grain variation, runs roughly 10 to 15 percent less per board because supply is more reliable. Garapa (Brazilian Ash) is the warm-honey-toned option at Janka 1,540 (still 4 to 5 times harder than oak), runs roughly 25 percent less than Ipe, and silvers to a lighter grey than Ipe. Tigerwood is the visually distinctive option — Janka 2,150, dramatic stripe figure that varies board-to-board, slightly more dimensional movement than Ipe so a tighter installation discipline. All four are FSC-certifiable where the supply chain allows.
Should I oil the deck or let it silver?
Two equally valid finishes; the choice is about the maintenance commitment you want to make. Option A — annual oil with Penofin Hardwood Oil: the deck holds the original golden-walnut tone for the life of the install, requires one Saturday a year of light pressure-washing and a fresh oil application, and reads warm and traditional. Option B — no finish at all: the deck silvers to a driftwood grey over 6 to 18 months in PNW exposure (faster on south-facing yards, slower in shade), requires zero maintenance ever again, and reads contemporary. Both finishes are structurally identical at 25 years — the silvered version is not weaker or shorter-lived than the oiled version. We document your choice on the project file at hand-off so the maintenance plan matches.
What does FSC-certified mean and why does it matter?
Forest Stewardship Council (FSC) certification verifies the source forest is managed sustainably and the supply chain from forest to lumber yard is traceable end-to-end. Ipe in particular is heavily harvested in Brazil; unverified supply chains have legitimate sustainability and legality concerns (illegal harvesting, mis-labeled species, replacement of slow-growing native species with plantation species). FSC certification is the third-party verification that the wood was harvested and traded legally and sustainably. We source FSC-certified stock where the PNW distributor has it and name the source on the quote so the certification is in your project file. If FSC stock is unavailable in your species and dimensional run, we tell you on the estimate visit and let you decide whether to wait for FSC stock or substitute a different species (Cumaru and Garapa have more reliable FSC supply than Ipe).
Why does Ipe need to acclimate on site before installation?
Because tropical hardwoods arrive kiln-dried to roughly 12 to 16 percent moisture content and PNW ambient moisture content runs 14 to 20 percent year-round. If boards install at delivery moisture and then absorb ambient moisture in place, every gap between boards closes up and the deck cups within months. The discipline is to stage the boards on site under a tarp with stickers (small spacer strips) between rows for 1 to 2 weeks before installation so the moisture content equalizes to ambient. We measure with a pin moisture meter at delivery and again at install, and we do not install until the reading is within 2 percentage points of ambient. The wait is real and non-negotiable; we plan the project schedule around it from day one.
Why does every fastener need to be pre-drilled?
A standard
Can you use galvanized fasteners on a hardwood deck?
No. The natural tannins in all tropical hardwoods (Ipe, Cumaru, Garapa, Tigerwood) react with galvanized and carbon-steel fasteners — including hot-dipped galvanized, the standard exterior fastener on cedar and pressure-treated lumber — and bleed black streaks down the board within months of installation. All fasteners on a Handis hardwood deck are marine-grade stainless steel only (Type 305 minimum, Type 316 for marine-environment exposure). The fastener cost premium over galvanized is real but small in the context of the overall build, and stainless is the only acceptable answer for the wood. We name the fastener spec on the quote so you see exactly what is going into the deck.
Do I need a permit for a hardwood deck in Seattle?
Yes if any part of the deck surface is more than 30 inches above grade, or if the deck is structurally attached to the house in a way that affects the building envelope. Seattle DCI requires the building permit, a structural engineering stamp on the drawings (hardwood is heavier per square foot than cedar so the load schedule is slightly more involved on equivalent footprint), and a final inspection. Handis pulls the permit as general contractor under our contractor license and coordinates the licensed Washington PE on the engineering stamp. Both fees pass through on the quote as named line items so you see what the engineer and the permit actually cost — no markup, no hidden margin. For a low ground-level hardwood deck under 30 inches above grade on a flat lot, no permit is required.
How long does a hardwood deck take to build?
Five to eight working weeks of on-site construction including the 1 to 2-week board acclimation period. The acclimation period overlaps with framing — boards arrive once the footings are set and the frame is up, and stage under a tarp while joists and ledger are completed and inspected. A standard 250 to 300 square-foot Ipe rebuild on existing footings runs five working weeks total. A 300 to 400 square-foot deck with new engineered footings and cable rail runs six working weeks. A 400 to 500 square-foot deck with custom Ipe railing and a built-in bench runs seven working weeks. A top-end 500+ square-foot multi-level Ipe build runs eight working weeks. The permit application and engineering review add 4 to 6 weeks before on-site construction starts; FSC sourcing on Ipe adds another 2 to 4 weeks for the order to arrive.
Is the work guaranteed?
30-day workmanship guarantee covers any fastener that loosens, any fascia miter that opens, any railing post that moves, and any cosmetic finish at hand-off. The structural framing (footings, beams, joists, ledger) carries our 2-year workmanship warranty on installation. The hardwood itself does not carry a manufacturer warranty in the consumer-product sense — tropical hardwoods are a natural material and the species themselves are the warranty. Ipe, Cumaru, Garapa, and Tigerwood all have demonstrated 25 to 40-year structural life unfinished in PNW exposure based on installation track records back to the 1980s, which is the practical equivalent of a lifetime warranty for a residential deck. We register the FSC source documentation in your project file at hand-off. The licensed Washington L&I electrician warrants their portion under their own license terms.

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