Covered Deck / Patio Cover Construction
Handis covered deck and patio cover construction puts a full solid-roof structure over an existing deck or concrete patio — wood-framed rafters with standing-seam metal panel, corrugated metal panel, or twin-wall polycarbonate roof, integrated perimeter gutter tied into the existing house drainage — from $8,000 for a 10-by-12 polycarbonate cover to $25,000 for a 20-by-24 metal-roof cover with full gutter and downspout integration. A covered deck or patio cover is the upgrade past a pergola — open-roof shade infrastructure (a pergola) lets rain fall through; a covered cover sheds it. The deck or patio underneath turns from a 4-month summer space into a 9-month outdoor room because the rain is off you and the wind is broken. The trade-off is structural — a solid roof bears snow and wind load, the building permit is required in every Seattle-area jurisdiction we work in, and the engineer-of-record sign-off on the snow-load and wind-load calcs is required on most configurations. Handis pulls the permit as the responsible builder and coordinates the engineer-of-record submission.
Service
How a Covered Deck / Patio Cover Build Works
Eight sequential steps from permit pull through final inspection — the actual sequence we follow on every covered cover build.
Site Review, Permit Pull, Engineer-of-Record Sign-Off
Tech walks the deck or patio, confirms the cover footprint and the ledger-attachment scope, recommends the framing style (ridge-and-rafter vs shed-roof) and the roof material (standing-seam metal, corrugated metal, twin-wall polycarbonate). Handis pulls the structural permit and coordinates the engineer-of-record sign-off on the snow-load and wind-load calcs. Permit lead time 2 to 6 weeks including the engineer review.
Power-Auger Footings to Engineer Spec
Power-auger every outer-post footing to 24 to 30 inches below grade with the diameter sized to the engineer-of-record post-base spec. Pour ready-mix concrete around a Simpson ABA or ABU post-base anchor set plumb in the wet pour. 48-hour concrete cure before the post is raised.
Mount the Ledger with Z-Flashing
Ledger fastened through the siding into the rim joist or structural blocking with structural screws (Simpson SDWS Timber, FastenMaster LedgerLOK) or through-bolted carriage bolts per the engineer-of-record spec. Z-flashing kit installed at the top — tucked under the siding course above the ledger, over the top of the ledger, sealant detail at every fastener.
Raise the Outer Posts and Set the Beams
Outer 6x6 cedar or pressure-treated structural posts (PT on covered covers — the posts are not visible feature elements like on a pergola, so PT is acceptable; cedar is an upgrade) lifted onto the cured post-base anchors and plumbed against a 4-foot level. Outer beam set tying the posts to the ledger height, through-bolted with structural screws.
Frame the Roof — Ridge-and-Rafter or Shed Roof
Ridge beam set (ridge-and-rafter configurations) or upper-side beam set against the house ledger (shed-roof configurations). Rafters cut to length with the appropriate plumb-cut at the high end and bird's-mouth at the eave, installed at 16 or 24 inches on center per the engineer-of-record spec, secured with Simpson H1 or A35 hurricane ties at the structural attachment points. Solid sheathing (1/2-inch CDX plywood) installed over the rafters as the roof deck.
Install Metal Panel or Polycarbonate Roofing
Roof material installed per the manufacturer specs. Standing-seam metal panel — clips at every panel seam, no exposed fasteners through the panel face, mechanical or hand-seamed at the seams. Corrugated metal panel — gasketed manufacturer-screws at the panel valleys with the prescribed spacing. Twin-wall polycarbonate — H-channels at the panel-to-panel joints with sealant and snap-on caps, neoprene-washer screws at the bottom of every cell. Drip-edge and roof-edge flashing installed at the eaves and rakes.
Install Gutter, Tie Downspout to Drainage
Integrated perimeter gutter (or single low-side gutter on shed-roof) installed at the eave with proper slope for drainage, sealed at the corners. Downspout (one on small plans, two on large) tied into the existing house downspout-and-drainage system. Where the gutter does not align with an existing downspout, we route a new downspout to a splash block or to the existing perimeter drain.
Soffit, Fascia, Schedule Inspections, Sign-Off
Soffit (vented aluminum or vented vinyl) and fascia (cedar, painted PVC, or matched metal-coil) installed at the rafter ends. Framing inspection scheduled with the jurisdiction after the rafters are installed but before the roofing closes them in; final inspection scheduled after all finish work. Handis stays on site for both inspections. Sign-off closes the project.
Covered Deck / Patio Cover Pricing
Final pricing depends on plan size, roof material (standing-seam metal premium, corrugated metal mid-range, twin-wall polycarbonate value), framing style (ridge-and-rafter gable vs shed-roof), the structural permit and engineer-of-record fees, and the gutter-and-downspout drainage tie-in scope. The structural permit fee and the engineer-of-record fee pass through transparently as named line items. Request a free estimate for an accurate quote.
Tell us the footprint, the roof material preference (metal panel or polycarbonate), and which side of the house the cover lands on — we will quote the full build with the permit, the engineer-of-record fee, and the drainage tie-in called out.
Why Handis for Covered Patio Covers
A covered patio cover is the structural step past a pergola. A pergola is open-roof shade infrastructure for $5,000 to $14,000 that lets rain fall through. A covered cover is solid-roof construction for $8,000 to $25,000 that sheds rain into a gutter and turns the patio underneath into a 9-month outdoor room. The structural difference is real — the closed roof bears live snow load (the Puget Sound lowland design value is 20 to 25 PSF, mountain-adjacent zones step higher), the wind-load on the roof plane is substantial, and the building permit and engineer-of-record sign-off are required on every configuration we build. We pull both. We do not skip the integrated gutter (a covered cover without proper drainage turns the patio underneath into a puddle), we do not under-spec the rafters to hit a lower price (the snow-load failure mode is a roof that fails in a snowstorm), and we do not freestyle the engineer-of-record calcs. The structure either passes the framing inspection on the first pass or it does not — and we build to pass on the first pass.
Estimate
Tell us the footprint of the deck or patio you want covered, which side of the house the cover lands on (north / south / east / west facing), the roof material preference (standing-seam metal premium, corrugated metal mid-range, or twin-wall polycarbonate value entry), the framing style preference (ridge-and-rafter gable for a peaked look or shed-roof for a single-slope drain), and whether the existing house drainage system can take the new downspout (we will verify on the first visit). We name the structural permit scope, the engineer-of-record fee, and the gutter tie-in scope on the estimate.
Customer Reviews
Covered patio cover reviews from real Handis customers.
14x16 standing-seam metal-panel patio cover over our concrete patio in Kirkland. Handis pulled the Kirkland permit, the engineer-of-record signed off on the snow-load calcs (we get real snow up here some winters), and the integrated gutter ties into the same downspout the existing house had. Turned what was a wet-9-months-of-the-year concrete slab into a usable outdoor room we use through October. The rain has not landed on our heads since.
10x12 twin-wall polycarbonate cover over our back deck in Ballard. Smallest standard plan and the entry-price polycarbonate roof was the right call — daylight pass-through to the deck below, rain sheds completely, $8,000 done. Handis ran the Seattle DCI permit, the engineer signed off on the basic calcs, and the install took 4 days end to end. We use the deck for coffee in November now.
20x24 standing-seam metal-roof cover with integrated gutter over our patio in Mercer Island — largest plan they build. Engineer-of-record sign-off required because of the wind exposure on the lake side. Two downspouts on the long axis tied into the existing perimeter drain. Ridge-and-rafter gable framing because the house roof is also gable and they wanted to match. Looks like a planned addition to the house, not a tacked-on cover.
12x14 corrugated metal patio cover over our concrete patio in Bellevue. We wanted the rain off the patio without the price tag of standing-seam, so the corrugated 26-gauge Kynar was the answer. Handis steered us to it honestly on the booking call — same rain protection, same lifespan in our use case, 30 percent less cost. Shed-roof framing draining to a single low-side gutter tied into the existing downspout.
16x20 standing-seam metal with skylight insets in our Issaquah backyard. We wanted the rain protection of metal but were worried the patio would feel dark underneath. Handis suggested twin-wall polycarbonate skylight insets in the metal — daylight pass-through in a strategic pattern across the roof. The patio reads bright but the rain runs off. Premium configuration, worth every dollar.
Frequently Asked Questions
Common questions about Handis covered patio cover and covered deck construction.