Caulking & Sealing Services

Caulking and sealing is the residential trade that strips failed bead at every joint where two materials meet, applies the correct sealant chemistry for the exposure, and tools a clean line that lasts — covering bath, kitchen, windows, doors, trim, and exterior penetrations from $180 per area. The black line of mildew at the tub edge, the cracked white bead along a window casing, the gap behind the kitchen faucet where water pools every morning, the trim seam the painter promised would be caulked before the topcoat. Handis strips the failed old bead all the way back to clean substrate, picks the right chemistry for the joint, tools a clean line, and gives every wet bead the cure time it actually needs — most caulking work starts at $180 and runs $400 to $550 for whole-home or full-shower jobs.

Caulking and sealing services hub image — wide shot of a residential bathroom mid-job with a freshly tooled white silicone bead running the length of the tub-to-tile seam, a caulk gun and a small bin of utility blades on a folded blue towel on the floor.

Services

What Does Caulking & Sealing Include?

Caulking and sealing covers six residential service families — bathroom re-caulking, kitchen re-caulking, window and door caulking, full tub or shower re-seal, baseboard and trim caulking, and exterior gap sealing with pest exclusion — each with its own pricing, sealant chemistry, and cure rules, all starting at $180 per area. The core skill is one — strip the old bead all the way to a clean, dry substrate, then lay a fresh bead in the right chemistry for the joint. 100% silicone goes everywhere it gets wet (bath, shower, kitchen sink, exterior weather seal). Siliconized acrylic (paintable latex with silicone added for flexibility) goes everywhere it gets painted (interior trim, baseboards, window casings indoors). Standard latex caulk is what most DIYers reach for and what fails inside a year in any wet location — we do not use it in bath, shower, or kitchen.

Bathroom Re-Caulking

Tub-to-tile, tub-to-wall, shower corners, vanity-to-wall, toilet base. The dark mildew line along the tub edge, the gap that opened up behind the soap niche, the bead that pulled away from the alcove when the tub settled. Old bead stripped completely (the residue is the #1 reason a fresh bead pulls), surface dried, 100% mildew-resistant silicone applied. Cure 24 to 48 hours before water. From $180.

Bathroom Re-Caulking — tub, shower, vanity, toilet base

Kitchen Re-Caulking

Countertop-to-backsplash, sink-to-countertop, range-to-counter, dishwasher trim. The seam behind the faucet where every spill pools, the gap along the under-mount sink edge that grows mildew, the rim of the slide-in range. Mildew-resistant silicone in colors that match common counter materials (white, almond, clear, bronze). From $180.

Kitchen Re-Caulking — counter, backsplash, sink, range, dishwasher trim

Window & Door Caulking

Exterior perimeter caulk that cracked through one winter freeze-thaw cycle. Interior trim gaps where the casing pulled away from the drywall. Threshold gaps under exterior doors. Exterior gets a paintable polyurethane or hybrid sealant rated for movement and UV; interior gets siliconized acrylic that takes paint. From $180.

Window & Door Caulking — exterior weather seal, interior trim, thresholds

Tub & Shower Re-Seal

Full re-seal when the whole alcove or shower surround has failed — every horizontal and vertical joint stripped, mildew on the substrate killed and dried, fresh bead on every seam, and a final water test before we leave. The reset a wet zone needs after seven to ten years. From $200.

Tub & Shower Re-Seal — full re-seal, mildew remediation prep

Baseboard & Trim Caulking

The gap between baseboard and drywall, the corner where two pieces of crown molding never quite met, the settling crack above a doorway. Paint-ready siliconized acrylic that fills, flexes with seasonal movement, and takes a topcoat without peeling at the joint. The step most painters skip and the one that decides whether the trim line reads as 'finished' or 'patched.' From $180.

Baseboard & Trim Caulking — paint-ready trim gaps, settling cracks

Exterior Gap Sealing & Pest Exclusion

The penetrations no one looks at — the dryer-vent perimeter, the cable and electrical service entries, the hose-bib gaskets, the foundation-to-siding band joist, the soffit gaps where mice and yellow jackets get in. Exterior-rated polyurethane sealant where there is paint, copper-mesh-and-sealant combos at rodent-rated penetrations, expanding foam-and-caulk sandwiches at larger gaps. From $180.

Exterior Gap Sealing & Pest Exclusion — penetrations, utility entries, rodent exclusion

Wide editorial photo of a caulking and sealing job in progress — technician kneeling beside a tub with a fresh white silicone bead being tooled along the tub-to-tile seam, a caulk gun, a small jar of denatured alcohol, and a folded blue towel staged on the floor.
Pricing

Caulking & Sealing Pricing

Final pricing depends on linear footage, how aggressive the old-bead removal needs to be, and whether mildew on the substrate has to be killed and dried before fresh sealant goes on. Each sub-category page lists detailed pricing for that family of work. Multi-room or multi-area visits are cheaper per area than booking each one separately. Request a free estimate for an accurate quote.

Send us the rooms, the seams, and any visible mildew — we will quote the whole visit.

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Why Homeowners Book Handis for Caulking
Trust

Why Homeowners Book Handis for Caulking

Most caulking failures trace back to the same three shortcuts. New bead applied over old residue (the bond fails inside two months — silicone will not stick to silicone). Latex caulk used in a wet area (turns black with mildew, then shrinks and cracks within a year). A bead tooled wet with a finger and dish soap that left a hairline crack down the centerline a day later. After a few thousand caulking jobs across Seattle drywall, tile, plaster, painted trim, fiber cement, and brick, every one of those failures has a fix in the truck — and the work that takes 90 minutes done right beats the same work done twice in eighteen months.

Old bead stripped to clean substrate, every time

Silicone will not bond to silicone — that is the chemistry. A fresh bead laid over old residue separates inside two months, the gap reopens, water goes through, and we are back. We strip every joint with a utility blade plus a silicone-specific solvent, wipe with denatured alcohol, dry the substrate, then lay the new bead. The prep takes longer than the application; that is the work.

Right chemistry for the joint

100% mildew-resistant silicone (GE Supreme Kitchen & Bath, DAP Kwik Seal Ultra) anywhere it gets wet — tub, shower, kitchen sink, exterior weather seal. Siliconized acrylic (DAP Alex Plus, Sherwin-Williams Painters Caulk) anywhere it gets painted — interior trim, baseboards, casings. Polyurethane (Sika, Loctite PL) for exterior weather joints that need movement and UV resistance. Standard latex stays on the truck for nothing — it fails in every wet location and there is a better paintable option for every dry one.

Cure time we actually wait for

100% silicone cures 24 to 48 hours before water exposure. Siliconized acrylic accepts paint in 30 to 60 minutes but does not reach full cure for 24 hours. Polyurethane needs 24 to 72 hours depending on temperature. We tell you on the booking call how long the shower, sink, or trim has to stay dry or unpainted, and we leave a printed note on the bathroom door if anyone in the house could mess up the cure by accident.

Mildew remediation prep before the fresh bead

A black line of mildew on the substrate under a failed bead does not disappear when you cover it with new silicone — it grows through. We treat the surface with a quaternary ammonium cleaner (the same chemistry hospitals use for hard-surface disinfection), let it sit the full dwell time, rinse, and dry completely before the new bead goes down. If the substrate itself is rotting (soft drywall, swollen MDF, delaminated tile backer), we tell you on arrival and route the repair to drywall or tile work first.

Insured, background-checked, 30-day workmanship guarantee

Every Handis caulking tech carries liability insurance and has cleared a background screening before the first job. If a bead pulls, cracks, separates from the substrate, or molds within 30 days because of our workmanship or prep, we come back and redo it at no extra charge. The guarantee covers our installation — it does not cover damage from a leak behind the wall, a tile that came loose later, or scrubbing the bead with an abrasive pad. We will tell you on arrival if we see something that looks like a future problem.

Estimate

List the rooms, the seams (tub edge, sink perimeter, window count, trim linear feet), any visible mildew or substrate damage, and we will send back a clear estimate for the full visit.

Service cost estimate illustration
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FAQ

Frequently Asked Questions

Common questions about caulking and sealing — pricing, scope, materials, cure time, and what to expect.

How much does caulking and sealing cost?
Single-area caulking jobs — one bathroom, one kitchen seam, one window opening, one room of baseboard — start at $180. A full tub or shower re-seal (every horizontal and vertical joint, mildew prep included) starts at $200. Whole-home perimeter work runs higher — every exterior window on a single-story home is around $450, every baseboard and trim joint in a 2,000 to 2,500 sq ft home runs to $550. Multi-area visits are cheaper per area than booking each one separately. You get a clear estimate before any work begins.
Can you do bath, kitchen, and exterior caulking in one visit?
Yes — and this is the cheapest way to book it. A typical visit closes three to four areas in three hours. Master bath tub, kitchen counter and sink, two exterior windows, and a front-door threshold is one visit, one trip charge, one cleanup. Tell us every area on the booking call, including approximate linear footage and any visible mildew, and the truck shows up loaded for the full list — the right chemistry for each joint, the right tools for each substrate.
Why does new caulk fail in a year when DIYed?
Three failure modes account for almost every DIY caulking job that fails inside twelve months. First, the old bead was not fully stripped — silicone does not bond to silicone, so the fresh bead lifts within weeks. Second, the wrong product was used (standard latex caulk in a wet area molds and cracks within months; 100% silicone in a paintable joint will not take paint). Third, the bead was tooled with a wet finger and dish soap that left a hairline crack down the centerline as it cured. We strip, use the right chemistry, and tool dry with a proper caulk-shaping tool.
What is the difference between silicone, siliconized acrylic, and polyurethane?
100% silicone (mildew-resistant) is the right choice anywhere it gets wet — tub, shower, kitchen sink, exterior weather seal. It bonds permanently to tile, glass, porcelain, and finished metal; it will not take paint. Siliconized acrylic (paintable latex with silicone added for flexibility) is the right choice anywhere it gets painted — interior trim, baseboards, casings, settling cracks. Polyurethane is the right choice for exterior weather joints that need maximum movement and UV resistance — siding-to-trim, foundation-to-band-joist, expansion joints. The truck carries all three and we pick by joint, not by habit.
How long before I can use the shower or paint the trim?
100% silicone needs 24 to 48 hours before water exposure depending on humidity — most master baths in Seattle in winter need the full 48. Siliconized acrylic accepts paint in 30 to 60 minutes; full cure for stress is 24 hours. Polyurethane exterior sealant needs 24 to 72 hours depending on temperature. We tell you the specific cure time on the booking call and leave a printed note in the bathroom or near the trim if anyone in the house could compromise the cure by accident.
Do you do the mildew remediation, or just the caulking?
We do the prep that is in scope for a caulking job — strip the failed bead, treat visible surface mildew on the substrate with a quaternary ammonium cleaner (full dwell time, then rinse and dry), and lay the new bead. If the substrate is rotting (soft drywall behind a tub, swollen MDF baseboard, delaminated tile backer board), we tell you on arrival — that crosses into drywall, tile, or carpentry work and we route it accordingly before the caulking. Black mildew growing through fresh silicone is the classic sign the prep was skipped; we do not skip the prep.
Will you match the caulk color to my fixtures or counter?
Yes. The truck carries silicone in white, almond, clear, biscuit, bronze, and black; siliconized acrylic in white and off-white (and takes paint). For unusual counter or tile colors we pick the closest stock match — kitchen jobs default to almond or clear over white when the counter is anything but pure white, because pure-white silicone against an off-white counter reads as a band of mismatched color. Tell us the fixture or counter color on the booking call.
What if my baseboards or window casings need replacing, not just caulking?
We tell you on arrival. Caulking covers settling cracks, paint-ready gaps, and seam reopenings — joints where the underlying material is intact. If the baseboard is rotted at the bottom, the casing has split, the trim has come loose from the wall, or the substrate behind the joint is compromised, fresh caulk is a temporary cover at best. That routes to door, trim, or carpentry work and we are honest about it on the call instead of leaving you with a job that looks fixed and fails in six months.
Are exterior caulking and pest exclusion the same job?
Overlapping, not identical. Exterior caulking seals weather joints — window perimeters, door casings, siding-to-trim seams, hose-bib gaskets. Pest exclusion targets penetrations where rodents or insects are getting in — dryer vents without proper covers, utility-line entries with gaps, soffit gaps, foundation cracks. Both use exterior sealant; rodent-rated penetrations also get copper mesh packed behind the bead because mice chew through caulk alone. Booked together as one visit when both are in scope on the same exterior wall.
Is the work guaranteed?
Yes. Every Handis caulking tech is background-checked, insured, and on the hook for a 30-day workmanship guarantee. If a bead pulls, cracks, separates from the substrate, or molds within 30 days because of our workmanship or prep, we come back and redo it at no extra charge. The guarantee covers our installation — it does not cover damage from a leak behind the wall that wets the new bead from inside, a tile that came loose later, or someone scrubbing the bead with an abrasive pad and a bleach gel. We will tell you on arrival if we see anything that looks like a future problem.
Which sub-category should I book if my list crosses several of them?
Book under whichever single area has the most work — usually the bathroom or the kitchen — and list every other area on the booking call. We schedule mixed-area visits as one appointment regardless of which sub-category was selected. Bath plus kitchen plus exterior windows plus trim is one truck, one trip charge, one cleanup. The booking call decides the truck load-out, not the dropdown.

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