Appliance Installation (Non-Gas, Non-Hardwired)
Appliance installation in this trade is the like-for-like swap of a non-gas, non-hardwired appliance on the connections already in the wall — existing 120V outlet, existing 240V dryer outlet, existing water supply and drain stub, existing duct — priced from $200 for a fridge water line to $900 for a full kitchen appliance swap day. A new dishwasher leaning against the garage wall in the box it came in, an over-the-range microwave still on the kitchen counter, a washer and dryer set delivered to the laundry room with the cords coiled on top. Handis sends a vetted handyman who carries dishwasher mounting clips, microwave bracket hardware, washer hoses with new flat washers, a saddle valve or compression tee for the fridge ice maker, and the right vent transition for the hood. New gas lines, new 240V circuits, hardwired ovens, and new plumbing routes to a licensed Washington L&I contractor — we tell you on the booking call when a request crosses that line.
Services
What Does Appliance Installation Include?
Appliance installation at Handis is the like-for-like swap of a plug-in, non-gas, non-hardwired residential appliance — dishwasher, over-the-range microwave, washer, electric dryer, fridge water line, or range hood — onto the existing 120V or 240V outlet, the existing water supply and drain stub, and the existing vent duct. The connection itself (outlet, supply line, drain stub, duct, circuit) has to exist and has to be sound. New circuits, new gas lines, new plumbing runs, and any hardwired appliance route to a licensed Washington L&I contractor. The work breaks into five service families. Each family has its own pricing, its own hardware kit, and its own scope boundary.
Dishwasher Swap (Like-For-Like)
Pull the old dishwasher, disconnect the supply line, the drain hose, and the 120V power cord (or hardwire whip — we do not hardwire), slide the new unit in, level it, mount it to the underside of the counter, and reconnect to the existing water, drain, and outlet. New supply lines, new drain runs, or any work inside the wall routes to a licensed plumber. From $350.
Dishwasher Swap — like-for-like, existing connections
Over-the-Range Microwave Swap
Pull the old microwave off the wall bracket and the cabinet support, disconnect the 120V plug from the cabinet outlet, install the new bracket and template-drilled cabinet bolts, hang the new microwave, and tie into the existing vent (recirculating or ducted). New circuits or new duct runs route to a licensed electrician. From $300.
Over-the-Range Microwave Swap — vent + outlet, existing
Washer & Dryer Hookup (Existing Connections)
Connect a new washer to the existing hot and cold supply hoses (we replace the old hoses with new stainless-braided hoses as a default — old rubber hoses are a top homeowner-flood cause), the existing standpipe drain, and the existing 120V outlet. Connect a new electric dryer to the existing 4-prong 240V outlet and the existing vent duct. Gas dryer hookups route to a licensed contractor — we do not run gas. From $200.
Washer & Dryer Hookup — electric dryer, existing 240V outlet
Refrigerator Water Line
Tap a new or existing fridge into the existing cold water supply with a compression tee or quarter-turn saddle valve (we prefer the quarter-turn valve over the older piercing saddle — the piercing type has a documented failure-rate history). Run a copper or stainless-braided line to the back of the fridge, connect to the inlet, flush the line, and verify no leaks. New supply lines route to a licensed plumber. From $250.
Refrigerator Water Line — saddle valve or compression tee
Range Hood Swap (Existing Circuit + Duct)
Pull the old hood, disconnect the 120V plug from the existing circuit, transfer or replace the existing duct transition (6-inch round, 3-1/4 by 10-inch rectangular, or recirculating), hang the new hood per the manufacturer mounting template, and reconnect. New circuits or new duct routes to a licensed electrician. From $350.
Range Hood Swap — vent + outlet, existing
Appliance Installation Pricing
Final pricing depends on the appliance, the existing connection quality, and whether anything needs replacement or upgrade (old rubber washer hoses, dried-out duct transitions, corroded shutoffs). Multi-appliance visits are cheaper per appliance than booking each one separately. Request a free estimate for an accurate quote.
Send us the appliance models and the photos of the existing connections — we will quote the whole visit and tell you upfront if anything routes to a licensed contractor.
Why Homeowners Book Handis for Appliance Installs
Most appliance-install calls fail one of two ways — the new appliance does not fit the rough opening because the cabinetry was built around the old unit's quirks, or the existing connection is not actually sound (a corroded shutoff that will not close, a 30-year-old rubber washer hose two months from bursting, a saddle valve that already weeps, a vent transition that has dried out and cracked). After a few hundred appliance installs across Seattle kitchens and laundry rooms, every one of those problems has a check we run before we touch the new box. We open the shutoff, we read the model and the model's spec sheet, we measure the rough opening against the new unit's actual dimensions (not the marketing dimensions), and we tell you what we find before the install starts. If the work crosses into licensed-contractor territory — a new circuit, a new gas line, a new water run inside the wall — we stop and route the right part to a licensed Washington L&I contractor.
Honest scope — like-for-like on existing connections, and we say so on the call
This trade is plug-in installs on connections that already exist. New gas lines, new 240V circuits, hardwired ovens or cooktops, and any new supply or drain line inside the wall live outside the scope of an unlicensed handyman in Washington — those route to a licensed Washington L&I contractor. We tell you on the booking call which part fits this trade and which part needs a licensed sub. The honest scope is the same in writing on the estimate.
Existing connections inspected before the new appliance touches them
Every install starts with a check on the connection — the shutoff opens and closes cleanly, the washer hose is not the 30-year-old rubber kind, the 240V dryer outlet reads 240V (not a worn-out 120V on a tripped half-leg), the saddle valve does not weep, the vent transition is still flexible. If any of it fails the check we tell you the replacement cost before we touch the new appliance.
Old washer hoses replaced as the default, not the upsell
Old rubber washer hoses are one of the top causes of homeowner water damage — they look fine, they hold pressure for years, and then they burst at three in the morning. We replace them with new stainless-braided hoses on every washer install as a default, not as an upsell — the cost is in the price of the visit.
Saddle-valve preference on fridge water lines
For refrigerator water lines, we install a quarter-turn saddle valve (modern type) or a compression tee tied into the cold supply. The older self-piercing saddle valves have a documented failure-rate history — they weep around the puncture point years after install. We do not install the piercing type, and if you have an existing one we will recommend a swap.
Insured, background-checked, 30-day workmanship guarantee
Every Handis handyman carries liability insurance and has cleared a background screening. If a hose we installed leaks, a mounting clip pulls, a vent transition slips, or any connection we made fails within 30 days due to our workmanship, we come back and fix it at no extra charge. The guarantee covers our work — it does not cover the new appliance's manufacturer warranty (file with the manufacturer for those) or pre-existing failures in connections we flagged before the install.
Estimate
Tell us the appliance model numbers, photos of the existing connections (the shutoff, the outlet, the duct, the drain), and which appliances you want done in the same visit. We will send back a clear estimate and a clear scope boundary — what fits this trade and what routes to a licensed contractor.
What Our Customers Say
Recent appliance installation reviews from verified customers.
New dishwasher swap on a 12-year-old Bosch that finally died. The tech opened the shutoff under the sink first — it would barely budge and he said it was the original — replaced the angle stop and the supply line before he touched the new dishwasher. Glad he caught it; the old shutoff would have failed eventually. New unit slid in, leveled, mounted to the underside of the granite counter with the clips, water on, runs quietly. One hour for the install, twenty minutes extra for the shutoff.
New washer and electric dryer set. The tech replaced both old rubber washer hoses with stainless-braided as part of the install — said the old ones were close to twenty years and were on his short list of homeowner-flood causes. Connected the dryer to the existing 4-prong 240V, the existing vent. Both units running before he left. The hose swap alone is the kind of thing I would not have known to ask for.
Three-appliance kitchen day — dishwasher, over-the-range microwave, refrigerator water line for the new ice maker. He told me on the booking call that the gas range I had also wanted swapped would need a licensed contractor — appreciated the upfront honesty rather than starting the job and figuring it out halfway through. Spent the full morning on the three plug-in units, all three working, all three connections tight. The gas range I rebooked through his licensed referral the following week.
Refrigerator water line for the new ice maker on a Samsung. The previous owner had installed one of those self-piercing saddle valves on the cold supply under the sink — the tech said those have a known weep failure rate and recommended swapping it for a quarter-turn valve while he was already in there. Two-hour visit instead of one, but the install is clean and the line is sound. Ice maker producing within four hours.
Range hood swap, 36-inch under-cabinet for a wider 36-inch chimney style on the existing circuit and existing 6-inch round duct. The tech read the new hood's mounting template against the cabinet, found the duct transition was off by an inch from the new hood's collar, and installed a flexible transition piece to bridge the offset cleanly. Hood is up, vented, working. The transition piece was the kind of fit issue I would have hit and not known how to solve.
Frequently Asked Questions
Common questions about appliance installation — pricing, scope, what we install, and what routes to a licensed contractor.